02GF74
|
 posted on 11/8/09 at 08:19 PM |
|
|
Oh dear .... but I kinda expected it ....
not good - that is a thinn knife blade and it's a tight fit.
 
Rescued attachment DSC04817.JPG
|
|
|
|
|
owelly
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:23 PM |
|
|
Twat the fanimould with a hammer to put a dent in it or slot the engine mount holes to move it forward>??
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
|
|
|
Canada EH!
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:25 PM |
|
|
Well it's out with the big ugly hammer and adjust the collector, or frame adjustment, or raise engine. IMHO you need at least 1 cm of space for
engine movement in all directions.
|
|
|
mookaloid
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:26 PM |
|
|
that's gonna knock
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
|
|
|
zilspeed
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:28 PM |
|
|
See the first to responses for details.
Big hammer.
Or rework that top tube.
(Which looks a bit agricultural anyway.)
|
|
|
zilspeed
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:28 PM |
|
|
See the first two responses for details.
Big hammer.
Or rework that top tube.
(Which looks a bit agricultural anyway.)
|
|
|
zilspeed
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:28 PM |
|
|
See the first two responses for details.
Big hammer.
Or rework that top tube.
(Which looks a bit agricultural anyway.)
|
|
|
speedyxjs
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:33 PM |
|
|
Defo big hammer job 
ETA - i see you still havnt eaten that kit cat  
[Edited on 11-8-09 by speedyxjs]
[Edited on 12-8-09 by speedyxjs]
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
|
matt_claydon
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
The triangulation of the top tubes has already been lost by putting that U-shape cutout in, so why not just get rid of the problem sections?
Can't really see the point in the current cutout, it's no stronger/stiffer than the red option here:
 
Description
[Edited on 11/8/09 by matt_claydon]
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:47 PM |
|
|
this a photo of the top part of the chassis - if anyone wishes to make suggestions - bearing in mnd the exhaust needs to fit and noting position of
radiator which limits triangulation solutions.
 
Rescued attachment DSC04424.JPG
|
|
|
IanBrace
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:47 PM |
|
|
Angry grind that tube out!
www.aerialphotography.org.uk
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:53 PM |
|
|
I'd rearrange the chasis tubes TBH - not the simplest option, but better than twatting the manifold about
|
|
|
SeaBass
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 08:57 PM |
|
|
Those tubes are doing nothing structurally. I'd just remove them and put a diagonal brace back towards the scuttle with a double tube down that
side.
My mates F27 has loads of room in the engine bay with his crossflow. I thought the RV8 fitted in there too?
|
|
|
jase380
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 09:01 PM |
|
|
as above . ., big hammer or grind rail off and weld it up
|
|
|
RichardK
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 09:07 PM |
|
|
My vote goes for, removing the tube and forget it was ever there
Regards
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
|
|
|
sminney
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 10:43 PM |
|
|
hopefully my art work will show below, but basically my vote would be to remove the whole diagonal and replace with a smaller one......
 
Rescued attachment chassis.jpg
|
|
|
locoboy
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 10:54 PM |
|
|
alternatively just get a manifold that exits straight out the head and over the top chassis rail before it bends?
ATB
Locoboy
|
|
|
stifmeister
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 11:01 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by sminney
hopefully my art work will show below, but basically my vote would be to remove the whole diagonal and replace with a smaller one......
That would be the one I'd do. Had a similar experience with a narrow Westfield when I decided to put in a gear reduction starter, the gear
thingy on the side of the main motor body hit the chassis in a big way. Just cut it and rewelded it in a different direction. You could smash the
bejesus out of it but would you be pleased with that?
|
|
|
iscmatt
|
| posted on 11/8/09 at 11:42 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by sminney
hopefully my art work will show below, but basically my vote would be to remove the whole diagonal and replace with a smaller one......
This certainly looks to be your best option
|
|
|
r1_pete
|
| posted on 12/8/09 at 07:37 AM |
|
|
How about modding the rail like this:
 
Rescued attachment o2gf.JPG
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 12/8/09 at 09:29 AM |
|
|
The classic fix in this case is the Y brace:
 
Engine bay Y brace
The angle of the long part of the brace w.r.t the chassis rail should be made as wide as possible; there seems to be a fair bit of clearance between
the outside of the collector and the chassis rail which should make this possible.
|
|
|
AndyW
|
| posted on 12/8/09 at 11:23 AM |
|
|
whats the saying??? "measure twice, cut once"
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 12/8/09 at 12:45 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
whats the saying??? "measure twice, cut once"
when I mocked up with a different head, there was about 10 mm or more clearance as well as the exahsut exiting centrally - it is a bit off there as
well.
|
|
|
Angel Acevedo
|
| posted on 27/8/09 at 04:50 PM |
|
|
Change the radiator to the other side of the traverse tube, you may want to modify your Thermostat housing so it exits toward the fronto of the
car.
Then use the suggested solution above by MikeRJ
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
|
|
|
