t16turbotone
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 05:26 PM |
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Rover K series head gasket help
Got a job to replace head gasket on freelander 1.8 K series. Never done one before but ive heard rumours about this engine. So what is it that causes
the failure on these engines? anything i should look out for? thanx
tony
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BenB
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 05:37 PM |
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I understood it was pants gaskets and using a re-inforced one from the Freelanders (IIRC) was a good trick.
They ain't called a K(ettle) series for nothing 
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prawnabie
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 05:41 PM |
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British Trident is the man to ask! If you do it properly, rover will supply you with a new stat and a new alloy ladder for the headbolts too.
Im sure there are mods that need to be done - he will advise you.
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westf27
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 05:44 PM |
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best get head skimmed and make sure you replace the inlet manifold gasket (usually the cause of the head gasket failure).I quite like these engines
having had a couple in Elises and thrashed em constantly without failure.People fail to keep an eye out for water loss(manifold gasket) and boil em
up.They dont have a lot of water in the system.Worth checking the pump as well.If the engine was really cooked up the liners may have moved which is
new engine time usually,but there are loads of 1.8's around.Good luck
555
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Danozeman
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 06:48 PM |
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If its been gone for a while the liners eat there way into the heads aswell which can mean a new head.
If the heads good then most people recommend a skim and fit a good quality gasket not a cheapy.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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robocog
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 07:26 PM |
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Wasn't there some isse with some dowels that locate the head as well?
Think they used plastic ones, which caused some issues but later changed to metal so it located properly
Someone posted a link to a cracking website all about the K recently, worth doing a search as it was a good read and almost made me regret putting a
Zetec in mine
Regards
Rob
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 07:39 PM |
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probably dave andrews site, http://kengine.dvapower.com/
The real culprit of the head gasket failure is a problem with the routing of cold water on startup. This can be solved with a alternate thermostat I
believe. As above, BritishTrident is your man on this.
Also the OE replacement head gasket kit will have steel dowels.
Build Blog
Build Photo Album
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robocog
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 07:48 PM |
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Found it ...It was Oldtimers posting of the following linky
Words and Stuff
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 08:21 PM |
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Unless the engine has been really roasted and the liners have sunk (check with straight edge when the head is off) The Freelander double layer head
gasket is the accepted way to go. Line the timing marks up at half stroke before you start.
Be 100% sure it is the head gasket before you strip --- these engines are designed to run very hot and as result you can't see water leaks.
Unless the oil and water are actually mixing before stripping it pays to do a cold cooling system pressure test.
Water pumps, inlet manifold gaskets and the cheap hose clips used by LandRover are known weaknesses. Radiators also tend to be less than water tight
as the miles pile up.
You don't need locating dowls in any eventnew stainless steel dowls will come with the new gasket and all post 2001 1.8 engines have them
already fitted anyway.
You don't need the block reinforcing ladder or new head bolts either --- in fact it is better to reuse the old bolts.
Take care with the cam phase sensor wiring and connector --- it can be a bit iffy but isn't a show stopper.
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Cam carrier and cams are left in place on the head, **** mark the sprokets and the dowls hole in the sprockets. ****
The head bolts have torx heads -- on the 1.8 exhaust cam needs turned to get at head bolts.
Head is removed at 1/2 stroke --- don't turn the engine more than a few degrees with the head off.
As this is a wet liner engine rock the head to free it don't pull it straight off
Usually easiest to leave the manifolds on the car --- important to use new inlet manifold gasket as it is a known cause of hard to trace water
leaks.
Both new or old bolts need to be cleaned, threads wire brushed, sprayed with wd40 allowed to dry and then checked for fitted length --- ie to check
the head bolt will ***freely*** screw down far enough into the block to effectively clamp the head.
The Freelander multi layer head gasket needs the head and the block to be cleaned to much higher degree than the Rover/Paynes gasket --- it contacts
the block and head slightly in different places from the Rover gasket.
Initial torque for the head bolts is very low so an accurate low range 3/8" drive torque wrench is essential or the angular tighten will be all
to hell.
After the initial torquing leave to sit for half an hour then check the torque again before starting to angular tighten the bolts.
I can't remember the head torque and tightening angles but they should be in the instructions with the newer gasket (same for both types of
gasket). Tightening pattern isn't anything special just work logically in pairs from the centre outwards
After the head is bolted down I usually do a sanity check -- set the torque wrench to 35 ft-lbs and check all the bolts.
Two different types of cam belt tensioner were used early type is fairly conventional --
Later type on post 2000 engines a wider cam belts was used with and auto tensioner --- just a case of moving the tensioner until the pointer end of
the spring lines up with a notch in the adjuster -- really simple.
Only trick bit left is bleeding all the air out the cooling system
[Edited on 7/10/09 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 8/10/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 7/10/09 at 08:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Only trick bit left is bleeding all the air out the cooling system
[Edited on 7/10/09 by britishtrident]
Have recently started to use a cooling system refiller working on compressed air , highly recommended, Refills and bleed the cooling system in
seconds
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t16turbotone
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| posted on 8/10/09 at 06:58 AM |
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thankyou british trident, and others!!
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