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Author: Subject: Brake Calculations
ashg

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
Brake Calculations

Ok Guys im tring to get my head around some brake calculations.

my brake set-up was this below
master cylinder 22.2mm
front calipers 2x 53.9
rear cylinders 2x 20.6

I have since changed the setup to
master cylinder 20.6mm
front calipers 2x 53.9
rear cylinders 2x 20.6

since the change i have noticed that the pedal has quite a bit more travel. the problem is if i push with all my strength i can almost get the brake pedal to hit the bulk head.

there is no air in the system and the wheels will lock at about half way towards the bulk head. im just worried that i can push the pedal well beyond the point where the wheels lock up.

my iva is approaching soon and i wouldn't want to fail because of this.

should i just get a longer push rod or should i be looking for a different solution?

[Edited on 5/2/10 by ashg]





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mookaloid

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:15 PM Reply With Quote
are the brakes bedded in yet? the pedal should improve as they do.

you would expect more pedal travel with a smaller bore M/C but it will be easier to press.

check that none of the brake hoses are ballooning too.

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ashg

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:19 PM Reply With Quote
no they are not really bedded in other than using the rears to slow down the rollers at the rolling road and a couple of short test drives round show grounds.

im confident that the car will stop im just worried it will fail on to much pedal travel.

the brake hoses are all brand new braided items. i have checked everything 10 times over as i thought i could have a bad flair or something silly but everything is fine.

[Edited on 5/2/10 by ashg]





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Angel Acevedo

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:24 PM Reply With Quote
KB58 reported his calipers flexing, may that be your case?

As you have more pressure in the system, theyre subject to more pressure than theyé designed to.





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Bluemoon

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:31 PM Reply With Quote
Are you sure you've not got air in there.. A the diameter change is small so the travel should not be all that different (~16% longer)

Dan

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ashg

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:35 PM Reply With Quote
could be a possibility .

what i really need to work out is how much more the pedal should travel with the new master cylinder. i have been trying to find a tool on the net to work it out but they all want silly money.

[Edited on 5/2/10 by ashg]





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Ivan

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:39 PM Reply With Quote
I definitely wouldn't be happy with this - never mind the test - sounds like you have no margin for lost efficiency at all in the future.
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ashg

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:43 PM Reply With Quote
the thing is the car will stop at the lightest touch of the pedal. it doesn't feel spongy, its nice and progressive and will lock the wheels quite easily.





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Ivan

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
could be a possibility .

what i really need to work out is how much more the pedal should travel with the new master cylinder. i have been trying to find a tool on the net to work it out but they all want silly money.

[Edited on 5/2/10 by ashg]


I think that the pedal travel is an inverse of the area of the MC against original MC area. i.e. reducing the area of the MC by half will double the travel

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bodger

posted on 5/2/10 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
I think this came up on here not long ago. They failed IVA. I think they eventually discovered a slight leak to be the cause. Once the calipers have clamped around the discs the pedal should be rock solid, you can't compress a fluid so i'd suspect a leak in the pipework or internally in the master cylinder.
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brianthemagical

posted on 5/2/10 at 02:16 PM Reply With Quote
Why did you change the MC. Sounds like you could use a larger MC and still have adequate power.
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ashg

posted on 5/2/10 at 02:22 PM Reply With Quote
the seals blew out on the old master cylinder so when changing it I decided too get a smaller one as others had recommended it as as an improvement





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Horizenjob

posted on 5/2/10 at 02:59 PM Reply With Quote
As said above the difference is 16%. You may never have pushed as hard on the old brake setup. Something is flexing or there is air.

If the pads are old they may have a taper. If they are new and the disks have a little wear, you must wear the pads a bit to conform. You could likely see this or bending of the calipers if you have someone else do the pedal while you watch each brake carefully.

I find bleeding after driving a distance gets a little more air out, it shakes some bubbles lose.

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RAYLEE29

posted on 5/2/10 at 03:06 PM Reply With Quote
If i were you id look at the rears take it theyre drums?
if you have old drums and new shoes they could quite easily work ok but flex out to fit as more pressure is applied.
check the drum diameter is not at or over max size. you used to be able to buy oversize shoes years ago but not these days.
when you take off the drums look to see how the shoes are wearing if its not even all round then theyre definately not the same rad as the drums and will be flexing
Ray

[Edited on 5/2/10 by RAYLEE29]

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RAYLEE29

posted on 5/2/10 at 03:12 PM Reply With Quote
if you get desperate to find where the prob lies use g cramps to stop your pistons moving. do the rears and try then the fronts. you should be able to tell where the problem is and concentrate on that area
Ray

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Bluemoon

posted on 5/2/10 at 04:01 PM Reply With Quote
ashg, The master cylinder you choose is little different from the original, you will get as said about 16% more travel and 16% more breaking effort for foot effort, not a big difference (not to say it's not noticeable, or worthwhile!). Might do this myself one day (but have new old stock master cylinder that's good at the moment).

Once properly sorted it should go solid quite quickly the movement required by the slave cylinders is very small and should not use much fluid..

Dan

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