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Author: Subject: Uprated Clutch R1 2003
spdpug98

posted on 9/5/10 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
Uprated Clutch R1 2003

Does anyone run an uprated clutch on their 2002/03 R1

I replaced my clutch during the winter with a Barnett Conversion (with Race Springs) and new genuine plates from Yamaha, but after a very spirited, very early morning 2hr drive today, it has started slipping again.

My engine is an ex-race bike engine and is up from the standard 150bhp to 180bhp, and I am wondering if the standard plates just can't take the extra power & extra weight of the car

Anyone have any ideas, I don't want to have to keep changing the plates





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GeorgeM

posted on 9/5/10 at 01:44 PM Reply With Quote
what oil are you using ?





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spdpug98

posted on 9/5/10 at 01:47 PM Reply With Quote
I am using the correct oil, it has been fine since I changed it and it has probably done 300/400 miles





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bassett

posted on 9/5/10 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
im sure my biker friends swear by fuchs silkolene to reduce slip. What oil do you currently run?

Out of interest what mods help it get to 180bhp, me want!





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spdpug98

posted on 9/5/10 at 02:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bassett
im sure my biker friends swear by fuchs silkolene to reduce slip. What oil do you currently run?

Out of interest what mods help it get to 180bhp, me want!


I may give that a try I am currently using a Shell Fully Synthetic bike oil, just worried that as it has started to slip it will only get worse (like last time)

The mods include balanced & lightened crank, race cams and lots of headwork inc raising compression, a race engine builder up Blackpool way built it





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jimgiblett

posted on 9/5/10 at 03:08 PM Reply With Quote
The barnett race springs are a bit cheesy. Better to use the standard road ones and a copper washer under the spring seat to give it a bit more clamping pressure.

If your steels are blued they can be revived using those green saucepan scourers. Were your plates soaked in oil before being fitted?

Personally I use Castrol Power 1 since it was recommended to me and have never had any problems.


- Jim

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james h

posted on 9/5/10 at 05:26 PM Reply With Quote
Even though your engine is uprated, I think using two diaphragm springs is worth a go - it certainly cured my clutch slip.
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Major Stare

posted on 9/5/10 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote
I have the 2003 R1, 5PW with Barnet clutch fitted 200 miles ago.

No probs with slipping even with a passenger, sticky tyres and giving it plenty of beans.

Only thing it could be is wrong oil or not set up right?





Jon "FISH"

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spdpug98

posted on 10/5/10 at 07:32 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the replies, as I have said I have ran the new clutch for 400 miles or so including two up and running Toyo 888's, and have had no problems at all so am confident in the Barnett Conversion.

The original clutch started slipping almost straight away once the car was built and on the road, and the conversion/new plates did resolve the problem.

The run yesterday was very hard and full on for 2 hours or so, so I assume that maybe the clutch had just got too hot or as some have mentioned maybe the Shell oil is not that good.

I think I may do an oil & filter change and see what happens, as soon as it stared slipping I backed it off so hope that I haven’t damaged the plates..........otherwise its another engine out job!





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spdpug98

posted on 10/5/10 at 12:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jimgiblett

Personally I use Castrol Power 1 since it was recommended to me and have never had any problems.


- Jim


Jim, are you using the Castrol Power 1 Racing or Power 1 GPS

I think I now know what has caused the slippage - I didn't soak the plates in oil for 24hrs prior to fitting..............what an @rse





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maximill666

posted on 10/5/10 at 02:42 PM Reply With Quote
Quite a few people recommend that the R1 clutch does not like fully synthetic oil & only semi should be used, maybe it could be that?

Mine has a heavy duty diaghpram spring plate & I use Silkolene Comp 4 semi synthetic and have had no problems at all.

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progers

posted on 11/5/10 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
When you soak the plates, its a good idea to use plain mineral oil or a semi synthetic oil (which is mineral anyway...) rather than fully synthetic.

After that, any good fully synth bike oil will be OK. I personally rate Motul and Castrol

- Paul

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spdpug98

posted on 11/5/10 at 06:04 PM Reply With Quote
Right then, I have ordered the new plates and have just bought 5l of Castrol Power1 fully synthetic.

Hoping to swap them over at the weeked, subject to the dealer getting the plates in - so what is the right way to do it:

1 Soak in Silkolene Comp 4 10-40 semi syn which I have on the shelf

or

2 Soak in Castrol Power1 fully syn

3 Leave for at least 24hrs

4 Fit

Any other advice, as I don't want to be doing this again in another couple of months





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bassett

posted on 11/5/10 at 06:27 PM Reply With Quote
I dont suppose you want to sell them old plates if there ok looking?





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spdpug98

posted on 11/5/10 at 06:45 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bassett
I dont suppose you want to sell them old plates if there ok looking?


Adam, could be interested but would be very concerned that if someone fitted them they would slip, I did read somewhere that once they have started slipping then they will just start to get worse and worse

ETA: Once I get these plates out I will have 2 full used sets of plates, but the first set slipped madly but this set only slipped 2/3 times and only for a very short time - wish I could revive them

[Edited on 11/5/10 by spdpug98]





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JoaoCaldeira

posted on 12/5/10 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
I'm using Barnett + race springs (the new ones - Barnett exchanged the old ones for free) and synthetic oil. After the conversion, I just did one trackday, so can't promise on longevity.
I did coat (not soak) the plates before fitting.

Before that I was using 2 diaphragms, which did very nice, until a very very mad night at a track
I did the conversion as I plan to turbo the engine later on... else I wouldn't.

Joao






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spdpug98

posted on 14/5/10 at 10:58 AM Reply With Quote
I have just collected the new plates and they are now soaking in a bag of nice Castrol Power1, hoping to pull the engine out tomorrow and get them changed..........and hoping I don't need to be changing them again!!





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GeorgeM

posted on 14/5/10 at 04:50 PM Reply With Quote
do you 'need' to take the engine out ??

the cover certainly comes off without taking it out, oil doesn't need draining either.

GeorgeM





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spdpug98

posted on 14/5/10 at 05:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM
do you 'need' to take the engine out ??

the cover certainly comes off without taking it out, oil doesn't need draining either.

GeorgeM


Not on mine, my car is one of the late chassis and they have changed the cradle for the engine. I know on the early ones the top bar of the cradle runs across the top of the clutch cover whereas on mine it runs down across the front of the cover.........no way of removing the cover without taking the engine out





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spdpug98

posted on 15/5/10 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
All done , I just hope that after 24 hours of soaking the clutch will be OK this time





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jimgiblett

posted on 1/6/10 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by spdpug98

Jim, are you using the Castrol Power 1 Racing or Power 1 GPS



Sorry missed your question....Yep using Castrol Power 1 Racing 10w30

- Jim

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davestarck

posted on 3/6/10 at 05:00 PM Reply With Quote
I have been told on good authority that you should never run a R1 engine of fully synthetic oil for exactly that reason - Clutch slip!!
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