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Author: Subject: BEC engine lifespan
coyoteboy

posted on 4/8/10 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
BEC engine lifespan

So with the bike engines being a lot lighter than car engines, and generally about the same price they're obviously an interesting proposal, but the questions I have when considering the options are:

What's the lifespan of the engines/clutches when put into a BEC? I suspect the pain of dragging round half a ton of metal takes a toll on the drivetrain. Are prices comparable to car engine parts? I know the car engine I was thinking of is a bombproof bit of kit and can be pushed massively, drivetrain is good for 500lbft of torque etc, but it does weigh 200kg. If I strayed from the engine I was thinking and went the way of the BEC, what are the pros and cons WRT a car engine? Is registering one harder? IVA? What emissions limits do I have to work to?

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alexcraiggtv

posted on 4/8/10 at 11:17 AM Reply With Quote
BEC Lifespan

I use my Blackbird Indy nearly every day for the past 18 months, goes no where slow and its mint! No clutch probs, engine issues what so ever





Not yet KATO!

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02GF74

posted on 4/8/10 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
oooh, BEC vs CEC








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coyoteboy

posted on 4/8/10 at 11:24 AM Reply With Quote
That is only 12 months though alex I used my road car every day and went nowhere slow (300hp) and the clutch lasted 90K miles until I shattered it one fateful launch!

Not trying to start a war here but trying to assess whether a BEC will leave me repairing it every other weekend, or mean I'm struggling to do a long trip without worrying.

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smart51

posted on 4/8/10 at 11:29 AM Reply With Quote
I did about 15,000 miles in my R1 bec on the clutch that came with the engine before selling the car on. Remember that the load on the clutch is the torque produced by the engine, not the weight of the vehicle reacting that torque. Peak load on the clutch is therefore the same. The car, being heavier than the bike, will take longer to accelerate. The load on the clutch during acceleration will last longer but will be no bigger.






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coyoteboy

posted on 4/8/10 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
Fair point, and one I've completely ignored, sometimes I'm a fool. I'd assume though that you'd spend more time slipping the clutch by definition so as not to bog. What's the price of a set of clutch plates in something like an R1? Since they're a lot easier to change the time/cost balance may be a lot closer than I'd thought.
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richardlee237

posted on 4/8/10 at 12:22 PM Reply With Quote
The torque transmitted through the transmission can be considerably higher than that developed by the engine.

If you dump the clutch then you not only have available the torque derived from the engine combustion but also the torque derived from the stored kinetic energy in the engine flywheel and components as the loading tries to bring the engine to a standstill.

The inertia and mass of the car is greater than that of the bike so the car will require a greater torque loading for a longer period to accelerate it.

Therefore the car will provide a greater stress on the system.

If you slip the clutch and don't let the revs change then the stored energy in the engine rotating components remains the same and the combustion supplies the torque for acceleration hence less loading and longer life





Quote Lord Kelvin
“Large increases in cost with questionable increases in performance can be tolerated only in race horses and women.”

Quote Richard Lee

"and cars"

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Guinness

posted on 4/8/10 at 12:27 PM Reply With Quote
Don't forget that changing a clutch on a BEC is much easier than on a car.

Lift the front end of the car, remove clutch cover (12 allen bolts on mine).

Undo 6 further bolts, remove plates, fit new plates, re-fit springs (may upgrade at this point), re-fit 6 bolts.

Put cover back on (new gasket) and do up 12 allen bolts. Lower front end of car.

Job jobbed.

Gearboxes / big ends etc however are all another matter........






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adithorp

posted on 4/8/10 at 12:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by richardlee237
The inertia and mass of the car is greater than that of the bike so the car will require a greater torque loading for a longer period to accelerate it.

Therefore the car will provide a greater stress on the system.




But this is offset somewhat by the 25-30%lower gearing of the final drive (diff).

Clutches are quick and easy to replace on an R1.

With h/duty spring kit fitted they last OK. Not needed to change mine in 3 years. Clutch wear and general engine life will to a certain extent depend on the quality of the driver and install.

I don't even think about whether its going to break down when I go out. I've done several 500mile days and a few multi thousand mile trips. never had to change anything but the oil.

adrian

PS I'm sure someone will be along soon to tell you that they're made of chocolate!





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dinosaurjuice

posted on 4/8/10 at 01:10 PM Reply With Quote
Was talking to a westfield owner with a fireblade engine, hes done 18,000miles but always carries a spare clutch. changed numerous times, simpe procedure and only costs about £50. Its when gearboxes and pistons start vandalising themselves it gets expensive...
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coyoteboy

posted on 4/8/10 at 02:14 PM Reply With Quote
Well yes, kinda hoping that I won't go eating pistons regularly, but I do question the box etc. Of course the inertial load imposed by the fly would be higher, but that's assuming you have no mechanical sympathy I guess, most of the time you don't drop the clutch at 10,000rpm. Sometimes

I'm getting more tempted despite claiming I'd never go anywhere near the revvy noisy monsters.

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adithorp

posted on 4/8/10 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
Bottom line... If you want a quiet, comfortable, reliable car, buy a Lexus. If you want a fun car, get a kit and if you want a super fun car get a BEC.

Registration is no different, except the low tax class (under 1500cc). Emmisions limits at IVA for a BEC are the same as a CEC. You'd need a cat and power commander in most cases.

adrian

ps. have you been in a BEC?





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coyoteboy

posted on 4/8/10 at 04:09 PM Reply With Quote
Certainly not interested in a comfy car, that was never the point - just don't want it to be the sole thing I drop my cash into (I've another 2 cars that takes a percentage (one of which may be sacrificed), plus my sports and a house and girlfriend lol). I do, however, want to be able to at least /reasonably/ trust a drivetrain not to die so regularly I have to buy a new engine/box every 2 years. I'm informed by my bikey mates that they go through engines every 40-50K in a bike chassis, hence my concern that the car chassis would accelerate that death.

Never been in a BEC, specifically. I've spent some time working on Formula Student cars (600cc bike engine single seaters) but never driven one.

Thanks for the info on the emissions. I'll read through the IVA documentation in more detail so I understand it.

[Edited on 4/8/10 by coyoteboy]

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JF

posted on 4/8/10 at 05:32 PM Reply With Quote
Well it really depends what kind of engine you got. In general a Honda will last longer then a Kawa. Although many claim to have had more fun on the Kawa in the shorter time

Other important factor is yourself. Do you give the engine time to get up to temp and cool down. Or you go flat out 1 sec after starting etc. Always top revs, or more moderate with an occansional top rev.

Do you use your clutch properly, or as a on/off switch. It's usually the monkey behind the wheel that breaks it...

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tandi

posted on 4/8/10 at 06:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
ps. have you been in a BEC?


I've had my Fury for nearly a year now, wasn't sure whether to go BEC or CEC until Jim took me for a spin in his R1 Fury... needless to say the grin on my face said it all. You gotta love the smell, sound and performance. If I have to fix it every now on then it wouldn't bother me!

ps Been 100% reliable to date

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adithorp

posted on 4/8/10 at 07:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Never been in a BEC, specifically. I've spent some time working on Formula Student cars (600cc bike engine single seaters) but never driven one.

[Edited on 4/8/10 by coyoteboy]


If you add your (rough) location to your profile you might get an offer of a ride.

Owning a BEC is a bit like a chain letter; Someone gives you a ride in one and you're converted and build/buy one. Then you're obliged to convert more people by giving them rides.

adrian





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Major Stare

posted on 4/8/10 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
Agreed, whats your location? Sure someone will let you have a ride.

Changed to a BEC last year and never looked back. Get a comfortable seat and you can drive it all day.





Jon "FISH"

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coyoteboy

posted on 4/8/10 at 10:03 PM Reply With Quote
Well I used to be not far from Manchester myself but I'm now in Glasgow (not ideal weather or roads for a kit lol) and only visit Manchester area one a month or so these days. A quick ride along would be fun I think, might convert me as you say! I've been a low-down torque monster for a long time.
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probablyleon

posted on 5/8/10 at 06:43 AM Reply With Quote
I blew up my BEC last week, was painful but I still feel the pros far outweigh the cons (by a mile). I had a fairly quick 2ltr se7en before my BEC and would never consider going back, these things are fantastic! That said, I'm very impressed by the distances covered by some of the contributors to this thread. For me, half an hour of scaring myself Sh**less is about all I can take before needing a break. Maybe avoid the Blackbird, tried and tested routes seem to be R1 or Fireblade, that's where I'm going.
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gixermark

posted on 5/8/10 at 09:00 AM Reply With Quote
depends ultimately how many miles you want/expect to get out of a bike engine ? most don;t build/buy with any real intent of trying to get say 30k miles out of the engine.. but no doubt many do !!

part of the appeal is the simple nature of changing engine and the cheap supply - say £500-£1500 for the entire plant

The only way I would change to a CEC would be for a highly tuned 2.0 - say 225+hp to make it worthwhile.. I've been in mild 160/170hp CEC sevens that don;t inspire me personally... Problem is, to get that 225hp+ you'd be into similar/more money for the engine/box alone than what woudl build an entire BEC kit car..

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coyoteboy

posted on 5/8/10 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
I've every intention of using the car, I'm a bit masochistic - the idea of having to concentrate hard for a 4 hour trip to see my friends doesn't scare me, in fact I find it rather inviting after years of driving my slow diesel commuter while the fun car is off the road In fact I'd consider using it daily to brighten up my country-lane commute. I'd happily replace engines every 30K if they were £500 a pop, but it seems that even the oldest and least powerful R1 on fleabay is £600. That said, I suppose at ~5K a year that probably works out under a hundred quid a year for a consumable engine.

If I were going to be going CEC I'd be throwing in a 300hp/300lbft 3S-GTE, atom-style rear engine. I can source these for ~500-750 inc gearbox at 200hp standard and do the few mild modifications required to get to 300 for another few hundred. I know I could make that engine last for a decade without effort, using it as a daily commuter. With a BEC I'd been putting the R1 first (I'm used to working with the R6 engine in a single seat racer) and I'm no stranger to BE's anyway, I've taken a carb'd 4pot bike engine and megasquirted 'n' sparked it, so really my concerns are solely lifespan/running costs versus versus a fairly fit and forget car engine. Of course the car engine would be approx 3x the weight of the bike engine, require much more space and stiffer chassis.

I'm going to be designing my own from scratch (again, masochistic tendencies) so I can pick placement/layout etc myself. I've already been developing an electronic paddle shift for the fun of it and I have people around me that are used to designing race car chassis and suspension systems so it seems the sensible way to go.

[Edited on 5/8/10 by coyoteboy]

[Edited on 5/8/10 by coyoteboy]

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Rocket_Rabbit

posted on 5/8/10 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Of course the car engine would be approx 3x the weight of the bike engine, require much more space and stiffer chassis.



This was my dilemma.

I have a modified S2000 and was thinking about breaking it, but keeping the vital components to stick in a CEC.

After some good research, even though the engine is amazing, the weight simply put me off.

After speaking to a guy who has done this to an MNR Vortx, he came back with reports that the car weighed in at 690kg?!?!?!

~200kg weight penalty of a BEC

That was enough for me to say no.

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coyoteboy

posted on 5/8/10 at 11:59 AM Reply With Quote
But on thinking about it, a 300hp CEC at 700kg is ~430hp/ton, 300lb ft @3500rpm.
A 500kg BEC with an R1 engine is only 300hp/ton, 20lbft at 10Krpm .
The tradeoff in that sense is a no-brainer. I suppose in corners and stopping the extra weight is a penalty, but the donor car copes admirably 1400kg so I suspect that a well-designed chassis and suspension would deal with that extra pendulus weight and keep the power to the tarmac - it seems bike engine cars spin for 50% of their acceleration!

[Edited on 5/8/10 by coyoteboy]

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adithorp

posted on 5/8/10 at 03:38 PM Reply With Quote
The donor car is a barge in comparison to a BEC. You need to get a ride in one to understand the point... and even then you don't get a true impression of what it's like with just the driver. Comparing the numbers means very little. Ride in one and you'll either have to have one or you'll never go near one again. It took about 30secs to convert me.





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adithorp

posted on 5/8/10 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Well I used to be not far from Manchester myself but I'm now in Glasgow (not ideal weather or roads for a kit lol) and only visit Manchester area one a month or so these days. A quick ride along would be fun I think, might convert me as you say! I've been a low-down torque monster for a long time.


I'd be happy to oblige. Let me know when you're next here and weather and work permitting we'll arrange something.





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