MikeR
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 05:20 PM |
|
|
Making your own fuel tank .... hints?
I'm starting to think its going to be easier to make my own fuel tank.
Wondering if people have any hints and tips or guides. Its likely to be made out of 1.2mm steel (as i can weld this relatively easily).
Plan is to make it tall and thin so its going to suffer less from surge with a small sump at the bottom.
|
|
|
|
|
cliftyhanger
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 05:24 PM |
|
|
Brazing may be better as a fuel-tight seal is more likely
|
|
|
jollygreengiant
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 05:27 PM |
|
|
First thing I did was to make a pattern from chipboard in situ. this also told me if I could get it in and out as neccessary. Then I got one made to
pattern (thanks TrevD)
See post on locost fuel tank in Luego section.
Front to rear surge is not so much a problem as high cornering speeds and side to side surge.
[Edited on 5/9/10 by jollygreengiant]
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 06:41 PM |
|
|
I made mine from 18g steel and folded it in one piece with an overlap so there was only one weld along then welded 2 baffles in and put ends on. I
used a hole cutter and welded the neck off a Mini fuel tank on it and drilled a hole for return and feed then welded air line fittings in to connect
the pipes to. It was all done with the mig and didn't leak.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
MakeEverything
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 06:42 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Brazing may be better as a fuel-tight seal is more likely
Why?
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
|
|
|
Bigheppy
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 06:44 PM |
|
|
When I made mine I also used 1.2mm steel. In order to minimise the welding I made a sheet metal folder and folded the four long bends, having the
seam, a lap joint close to a top bend. Both end caps were made with a flange bent around the edges to allow a lap welded seam. I fitted the internal
baffles then tacked it all together then welded the seams 3" at a time, I always started the weld away from the previous. I found that doing it
this way I had no leaks when it was finished.
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 07:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Brazing may be better as a fuel-tight seal is more likely
Why?
Because you are running thin runny metal into a narrow gap so it's pulled in via capillary action. MIG welding tends to leave tiny pin-holes
when welding thin stuff unless everything is perfect.
Either way when you think it's done put a pint or two of paraffin in to find any holes, once it's been filled with petrol you don't
want to go welding it back up.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
Strontium Dog
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 07:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Brazing may be better as a fuel-tight seal is more likely
Why?
Because you are running thin runny metal into a narrow gap so it's pulled in via capillary action. MIG welding tends to leave tiny pin-holes
when welding thin stuff unless everything is perfect.
Either way when you think it's done put a pint or two of paraffin in to find any holes, once it's been filled with petrol you don't
want to go welding it back up.
Even better is to fill it up with water and then use a foot pump to put a little pressure in (1bar will be plenty) after blocking any holes and
connecting a plumbers pressure gauge (cheaply available from screwfix etc) and leave over night to see if the pressure leaks down on the gauge. Hey
presto, a proper hydraulic test for peace of mind!
|
|
|
suparuss
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 07:42 PM |
|
|
when i made mine, well both, first the stainless one which i ended up scrapping and now the allu one- i inflated it with compressed air and went round
the welds with some washing up liquid. bubbles = leak. instantaneous check which also tells you exactly where the problem is.
|
|
|
MikeR
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 07:49 PM |
|
|
as i dont have a metal folder i was starting to wonder about making a frame from 1.5mm steel angle, then welding flat panels to that (always making
sure i pool weld for a couple of seconds and always over welding the last cm of weld before starting a new weld).
|
|
|
paulf
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 08:07 PM |
|
|
I tried making my own by folding it using blocks of wood etc but was not happy with it and eventually got a local fabricator to cut and fold the
material for the main body with just one seam at the top rear edge they only charged a few pounds to fold it as its just a few minutes work with the
correct gear.I then fitted the baffles and made the ends with returned edges and mig welded them in place, if you start each run on top of the
previous run it usually seals any pin holes left at the end of each run.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
as i dont have a metal folder i was starting to wonder about making a frame from 1.5mm steel angle, then welding flat panels to that (always making
sure i pool weld for a couple of seconds and always over welding the last cm of weld before starting a new weld).
|
|
|
RichardK
|
| posted on 5/9/10 at 09:39 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I made mine from 18g steel and folded it in one piece with an overlap so there was only one weld along then welded 2 baffles in and put ends on. I
used a hole cutter and welded the neck off a Mini fuel tank on it and drilled a hole for return and feed then welded air line fittings in to connect
the pipes to. It was all done with the mig and didn't leak.
Same as mine and has been bob on, although I wish it was bigger and had no boot.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
|
|
|
.jpg)
