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Author: Subject: OT: Shower not working....
vinny1275

posted on 16/11/10 at 08:46 AM Reply With Quote
OT: Shower not working....

Morning all,

The shower in the bathroom stopped working at the weekend - the ceiling pull-switch has power from the fuse downstairs as it runs a halogen light / extraction fan as well. I took the cover off the shower, and the connection block for the neutral cable had obviously been getting hot (it was scorched, the insulation on the cable was a bit stiff as well). The shower has been losing pressure over the last few weeks, so I figured it's knackered, and got a new one. Fitted it, and when turning on the power switch, nothing happens (yes, I did remember to put the fuse back in). I checked the ceiling switch, an earth and the supply neutral were loose (it was difficult to fit as there's not much spare cable coming into the ceiling box). I fitted those nice and snugly and tried again - now all that happens when I switch on the shower is that the neon indicator on the ceiling switch goes out.

I've checked for continuity on the live and neutral between the switch and shower, that's all OK (once I figured out that I'd accidentally turned on "hold" on the multimeter, so it wasn't showing me anything at all!).

Anyone any pointers for what the problem might be?

Cheers


Vince






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Stott

posted on 16/11/10 at 08:50 AM Reply With Quote
The switch is probably knackered, check the voltage in/out or continuity across the pins load/supply sides.

I do a lot of these after people have forked out for a new shower!

Did one just a fortnight ago, it was an MK switch too so not cheap quality. I think it's as people tend to use them to turn the shower on and off but don't realise they are not rated for load switching so the contacts don't last long.

ATB
Stott

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dogwood

posted on 16/11/10 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
Now thats just spooooky...
I've just had the exact same problem.

Bought a new shower...
Turned out ,as Stott says......Bloody pull switch was buggered.

New pull switch,job's a goodun.
Only cost me 150 quid..





FREE THE ROADSTER ONE…!!

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vinny1275

posted on 16/11/10 at 08:59 AM Reply With Quote
The old shower was oooold and looking it, so it's just brought forward something I was going to do anyway - the ceiling switch only got replaced last year, and was properly rated for a shower.... I'll get down to Screwfix at lunch for a replacement, and swap them tonight.....

Cheers


Vince






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snapper

posted on 16/11/10 at 09:02 AM Reply With Quote
Pull switch 45amp £20 from CEF
I have been told an extractor fan wired to a shower pull switch is a No No.
40+ amps running through tiny wires.
High power showers suffer from pulsing effect at the switch, this loosens the screws that hold the wires in and you get arcing





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I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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slingshot2000

posted on 16/11/10 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by vinny1275
Morning all,

I checked the ceiling switch, an earth and the supply neutral were loose (it was difficult to fit as there's not much spare cable coming into the ceiling box). I fitted those nice and snugly and tried again - now all that happens when I switch on the shower is that the neon indicator on the ceiling switch goes out.

I've checked for continuity on the live and neutral between the switch and shower, that's all OK (once I figured out that I'd accidentally turned on "hold" on the multimeter, so it wasn't showing me anything at all!).

Anyone any pointers for what the problem might be?

Cheers


Vince

The neon light should not be on unless the swithc is on. The switch should also have a mechanical on/off indicator. If,as quoted, the light is going 'off' when you switch on, you have got some wire crossed. These switches must be'double pole'; i.e. switch both live and neutral! The 4 terminals will be marked; 1) live IN, 2) live OUT, 3)neutral IN, 4) neutral OUT !
Also, it is allowed to use the shower switch to switch fans and lights BUT they MUST be fused down to the correct amperage!

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Stott

posted on 16/11/10 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by vinny1275
The old shower was oooold and looking it, so it's just brought forward something I was going to do anyway - the ceiling switch only got replaced last year, and was properly rated for a shower.... I'll get down to Screwfix at lunch for a replacement, and swap them tonight.....

Cheers


Vince



The one I just replaced was one I originally fitted last September! 50A Mk for a 9.5KW shower, it happens all the time.

You can get that MK switch for about a tenner in screwfix or if it's a rush in your lunch time b&q do it for £13 and they're open late.

ATB
Stott

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vinny1275

posted on 16/11/10 at 10:51 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by slingshot2000
[
The neon light should not be on unless the swithc is on. The switch should also have a mechanical on/off indicator. If,as quoted, the light is going 'off' when you switch on, you have got some wire crossed. These switches must be'double pole'; i.e. switch both live and neutral! The 4 terminals will be marked; 1) live IN, 2) live OUT, 3)neutral IN, 4) neutral OUT !
Also, it is allowed to use the shower switch to switch fans and lights BUT they MUST be fused down to the correct amperage!


It's a double-pole switch, wired correctly - the load side is the one with continuity to the shower. The light / extractor fan is taken through a separately fused transformer...

Cheers


Vince






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slingshot2000

posted on 16/11/10 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by vinny1275


now all that happens when I switch on the shower is that the neon indicator on the ceiling switch goes out.

Vince


If this is as you said in your original post, it cannot be wired correctly.
Regards
Jon

[Edited on 16/11/10 by slingshot2000]

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JoelP

posted on 16/11/10 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
a bad connection in the live supply could make the light go out when the shower is turned on - as the shower tries to draw current, the poor connection cannot supply enough, and the voltage across the neon falls as the shower dumps it all to neutral.

Similar to how how your dash lights go out when you try to start the car when the battery is nearly flat.

Your burnt neutral was also a sign of a bad connection. Probably the lack of slack meant it was badly fitted when last swapped. Im guessing the heat has ruined the contacts inside the switch.

Having the fan and the light on the shower supply is fine if its all connected and fused properly, though many sparks get hung up about the issue.





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