Jasongray5
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 02:12 PM |
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Starter Motor Ampage?
Hi guys,
Hows it going?
Ive been searching for a while but cant really get a definative answer or solution, so thought I would post this!
I really want to have my battery completely fused, Just as my starter motor terminal is quite close to my exhaust. 10mm or so. The starter came off of
a sierra 2.0DOHC and is turning a zetec 1.8. So does anyone have any Idea what sort of current that would draw? Also, Is there any reason not to put
it on the earth side of the battery?
Cheers Jas
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 02:24 PM |
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Maximum current would be about 30A i would imagine. The starter needs to have the positive supply, as it earths through its chassis.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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SPYDER
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 02:35 PM |
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I'd be surprised if it was less than 100 amps and more likely a lot more especially with a cold engine.
Geoff
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r1_pete
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 02:44 PM |
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Here you go, the spike it getting the engine turning, then it evens out at about 180 amps continuous cranking.
This is a mid range petrol engine, diesels, larger/smaller, higher performance, etc. all have a bearing, but it gives you an idea of the profile.
 
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 02:50 PM |
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100A slow-blow fuse on my low compression petrol starter feed.
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 03:06 PM |
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Cheers for all your replies guys,
Do you think a 250A Maxi fuse on the earth lead would do the trick?
Cheers again, Jas
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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SPYDER
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 03:13 PM |
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250A might well be OK but it could get very hot so be careful where you site it!
Geoff.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 03:29 PM |
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Do you need a fuse in there? genuine question, my modern cars get main stealer maintained so I don't even lift the bonnet that often, I play
with a 67 E Type which certainly doesn't have such a fuse.....
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blakep82
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 03:39 PM |
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didn't think they were fused on any car?
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 03:51 PM |
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Fuse for 200a amps in an arctic weather cold start situation the Pinto starter isn't exactly the efficient compared to modern geared units.
In normal starts it will probably only peak at 100 amps for a very short duration.
On older cars this lead was never fused and never caused problems only modern cars have them.
If you do fit a fuse it will have to be fitted in the main feed from the battery to be effective.
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 04:26 PM |
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Its only because of how close it is to the exhaust that I thought it might be a good plan to fuse it, so if ever the exhaust was knocked, the fuse
would blow, instead of the battery (and car) catching fire?
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 04:42 PM |
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If you fuse the negative you should really fuse the positive too, shouldnt fuse negative alone.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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BenB
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| posted on 25/1/11 at 05:52 PM |
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Starter motors take a mahusive amount of electricty to build up the magnetic fields and a slightly smaller amount of power to turn. They're good
on grunt, rubbish on efficiency.
However they are simple and only used for short periods hence no problem.
But if you put a fuse making it a big'un as already mentioned.
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 11:15 AM |
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Starters on most engines, new or old, put out about 2~3hp, and more.
Do the maths. 2hp~1500watts. =125amps 3hp~190amps
As the graph above shows, startup can spike at up to 4 times turning current.
The above is from personal experience, and measured using accredited equipment, not from i'net or wiki searches!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 06:41 PM |
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Put a heatshield between the starter and exhaust with a bit of wrap around the cable . Will cause more problems than it's worth fitting a fuse
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ashg
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 07:21 PM |
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having a fuse on the negative side is as good as not having a fuse at all.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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alawrence
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 09:05 PM |
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Why Ash ?
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nz_climber
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| posted on 28/1/11 at 10:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ashg
having a fuse on the negative side is as good as not having a fuse at all.
This is just plain wrong! I think you will find alot of vehicle DC systems are switched earths, doesn't mean the switch doesn't work.. A
fuse is exactly the same.
Although standard practice is to put a fuse as close to the source as possible, in this case it would work fine on the negative. But personally I
would put it on the positive side, and also would use a motor rated circuit breaking (means you can reset it if it does trip)
Remember current on the -ve side will be equal to the current on the +ve side of the battery
http://aarons7.wordpress.com
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 09:13 AM |
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Probably the main reason for fitting a fuse on the positive is safety, putting a fuse on the negative is a bit like shutting the stable door after the
horse has bolted
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alawrence
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 10:24 AM |
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why ? Ash
[Edited on 29/1/11 by alawrence]
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alawrence
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 10:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nz_climber
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
having a fuse on the negative side is as good as not having a fuse at all.
This is just plain wrong! I think you will find alot of vehicle DC systems are switched earths, doesn't mean the switch doesn't work.. A
fuse is exactly the same.
Although standard practice is to put a fuse as close to the source as possible, in this case it would work fine on the negative. But personally I
would put it on the positive side, and also would use a motor rated circuit breaking (means you can reset it if it does trip)
Remember current on the -ve side will be equal to the current on the +ve side of the battery
I agree..
In fact , when working on large dc systems and also automotive systems it is always safer to isolate the negative 1st.
there is always the possibillity that when disconnecting the pos first you can slip and put your spanner or lead to earth with a shocking outcome (on
neg earth systems )
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 10:44 AM |
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Putting a fuse on the neg leaves a large part of the curcuit unprotected!
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 11:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Putting a fuse on the neg leaves a large part of the curcuit unprotected!
How? If it breaks the circuit?
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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alawrence
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| posted on 29/1/11 at 12:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Putting a fuse on the neg leaves a large part of the curcuit unprotected!
POPPYCOCK !
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 30/1/11 at 02:40 PM |
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Some people obviously don't know thiere arse from thier elbow!
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