Krismc
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 05:20 PM |
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A little light over 50mph!!
the front is a little light over 50mph, is this normal?
Ive got a sierra steering wheel fitted and its a bit big, so maybe its because im not used too it and im over correcting so im getting a new smaller
wheel fitted soon. Any other tips?
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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daviep
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 05:39 PM |
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Is your tracking setup properly? Mine was proper scary the first few times I used it before I set the tracking.
Regards
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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hicost
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 05:50 PM |
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Castor
Sounds like the castor angle could be out (not enough)
Whats it like at 80 / 100mph or coming off the throttle from a higher speed?
James
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 05:53 PM |
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Ideally you want a small amount of toe-in on the front ---- important thing is to avoid toe-out.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 26/3/11 at 05:56 PM |
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And check the rear has toe-in --- rear needs a bit more toe-in than the front.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hicost
Sounds like the castor angle could be out (not enough)
Whats it like at 80 / 100mph or coming off the throttle from a higher speed?
James
I havent had it up that far, have only took it on the local 50MPh duel carridge way (it may have went 51 ) but coming of throttle at 50ish is a bit
skitish, Just feels very very light and a few wavy corrections too hold on when allowing it to slow, and then pulls a little too left under braking,
but that could be new brakes etc or a bit of bleeding required.
Cant take it back out until i get the alternator sorted.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Ideally you want a small amount of toe-in on the front ---- important thing is to avoid toe-out.
Any Vortx owners got the exact settings ? and anyone locally who has a guage.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:19 AM |
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Sounds just like my car when I had the front toe-in set to 0 degrees. Sensible toe-in fixed it.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 09:59 AM |
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Get some front toe in. Mines had toe out first run and it was mega skittish especially under braking and 2 up. Almost had a mind of it's own.
Now it's fine.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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Krismc
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| posted on 27/3/11 at 06:28 PM |
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How much is a little?? ive never even set it up before, mnr set it up for IVA, then readjusted too a nominal setting.
They did reccomend i have it set up after even thing beds in, as every single thing is new.
Anyone got a rough guide, and advise on how to roughly check it all on garage floor?
[Edited on 28/3/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 02:37 PM |
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I have the correct settings from the manufacture, and confirmed it was setup before leaving the factory and will check 2moro, and then again in a
100miles or so once everything has loosened up a bit.
It may just be me used too a 2 Ton Audi with 150Bhp, then driving a 500Kg car with the same.
Thanks for everyones help
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 03:06 PM |
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All cars of the general Locost/Westfield general type have noticeable amounts of bump steer because of this ride height variations due to springs
settling can have a significant effect on toe-in.
Try 1.5mm +/- 1 mm toe-in on front measured at the wheel rim (approx 3mm at tyre tread.)
on rear try 2mm +/1mm toe-in
If the car has had an initial set-up then i would just check toe accross the axles using a Trakrite ---
see http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=152593
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 03:41 PM |
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Don't forget to set your ride heights to MNRs recommendations (as mentioned in the other thread).
This also makes a BIG difference if set wrong.
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BenB
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 04:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Don't forget to set your ride heights to MNRs recommendations (as mentioned in the other thread).
This also makes a BIG difference if set wrong.
Yup, that's what I was just going to mention. Having the rear of the car a little higher than the front helps here. Unfortunately I have to have
the front a lot higher than the rear due to the sump. So at speed my car is very fun 
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Krismc
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| posted on 28/3/11 at 06:34 PM |
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Yea rear is 25mm higher than front.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Gergely
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 09:04 AM |
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Hi, when I asked Marc about the tracking and setup this is what he told me:
setup 1mm toe in all round
camber 0.75 degrees / 1 degree all round
tyres 16 psi front 18psi rear
It is slightly different in the manual, but he says my car is newer than the ones in the manual.
(RT inboard, R1 engine, 13" wheels)
I hope this helps.
Gergely
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