AndyW
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 08:54 AM |
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electric shower question
Hi All,
I have an electric shower. In the bathroom is a ceiling mounted isolator switch. This has packed up. Now I had been told by an electician that he
would not bother with the isolator switch as the shower is on its own seperate spur and fuse in the consumer unit. He suggested removing the pull cord
and just connect the wires in a connection box.
Is this right? Do I have to have an isolator or can I just rely on the consumer unit?
Thanks
Andy
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 09:23 AM |
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Hi, im not an electrician but if it was mine i would replace like for like the switch wont be that expensive.
I know that in most shower installation instructions it says about having a two pole isolator
sure someone more knowledgeable will be along soon
Ray
build diary1
http://picasaweb.google.com/raylee290/RoadsterPics#
build diary2
http://picasaweb.google.com/raylee290/KITCARPICS?authkey=Gv1sRgCI2AouyYgpuQmAE#
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tegwin
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 09:30 AM |
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You can get a double pole isolator switch with indicator for about £7.... I personally would (and have) fit another one.
There is a LOT of power going into that shower, its always nice to know you have a way of isolating it in an emergency. (electric showers have been
known to go into melt-down)
Seeings as the wiring/back-box etc is already there, I would suggest putting another switch in....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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Dusty
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 09:42 AM |
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Imagine the scene. Wife/kids having a shower. Shower starts to smoke, smell of electrical burning, etc. You are not at home.
Fit a new pull switch.
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slingshot2000
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 09:45 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AndyW
Now I had been told by an electician that he would not bother with the isolator switch as the shower is on its own seperate spur and fuse in the
consumer unit.
Andy
I do not know where you found this 'elecrtician', but nothing he has told you makes any sense.
I would strongly advise, as others above, that you replace the ceiling/pull switch with another of the same type and rating (amperage).
Make sure that you identify each conductor befrore you disconnect the old switch and identify where each goes in the new switch. Also make sure that
the connections are TIGHT and cannot be pulled out. I have seen more burnt out shower switches caused by bad connections than I care to think of.
Would you want to be stood in a shower of water when the shower unit went into meltdown and have no means of switching it off.
Remember, if you do change the switch; as the last person to interfere with it you would legally be responsible for any harm caused to 'person
or property'.
You have been given good advice here, I hope you take heed of it.
Regards
Jon
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 10:01 AM |
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When you come to fit a new switch (as recommended above) don't get an MK one. I've had 3 fail in succession, and in the last case it
nearly took the wiring with it - the design of the cable clamping screws is poor, and they had come loose slightly, causing heat. They were also very
difficult to operate - I always felt as though it was going to get pulled off the ceiling before it switch on or off.
I bought an alternative make in B&Q - British made, easy action, 50% higher current rating, double cable clamping screws on each terminal. Far
better made, and a bit cheaper than the MK one too. Unfortunately I can't remember the brand...
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ernie
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 06:14 PM |
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IT is a requirement of I EE regs to have a local isolation switch
PANDE FIRE & SECURITY SYSTEMS
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 06:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ernie
IT is a requirement of I EE regs to have a local isolation switch
... and has been for some time.
I would question this electrician mate of yours. It is possible to be an Electrician without being qualified, and there are lots of people out there
completing the 17th edition course and calling themselves electrically qualified / competent.
[Edited on 16-10-11 by MakeEverything]
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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rallyingden
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 06:54 PM |
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Ditto the above, It is a 17th edition regulations requirement to have a local Isolation switch
RD 
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JoelP
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| posted on 16/10/11 at 08:26 PM |
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Some sparks say this because there is nowhere that SPECIFICALLY says a shower must have a local isolator, however, there are many regs that alllude to
it, and infact one states that you musty comply with the manufacturers instructions, which invariably require both isolator and RCD. Good practice
too.
A similar theme is electricians who say you dont need to link a socket to its metal back box if the front is screwed back by at least one lug that
isnt adjustable. However, its corner cutting, and you look unprofessional if you dont have the earth link in.
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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AndyW
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| posted on 19/10/11 at 07:59 AM |
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OK
THANK YOU EVERY ONE WHO HAS POSTED A REPLY> AND THANK YOU FOR THE U2U's THAT I HAVE RECEIVED. THANKS YOU EVERY ONE.
There you go, I hope that pleases some one and as I have now thanked each and every one, I hope Im allowed to ask another question on this forum and
get an answer.
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JoelP
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| posted on 19/10/11 at 08:16 AM |
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Did you get lynched by the thankyou police?! 
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Hector.Brocklebank
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| posted on 19/10/11 at 08:26 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Did you get lynched by the thankyou police?!
Is "thankyou police" code for "anally retentive" ?
some are just wound way too tight and might want to go to "decaf"
Some people can never handle the truth and always try to shoot the messenger instead of taking an honest look in the mirror (its always easier to
blame another than to face reality), but secretly they wish they could grow a pair and be the messenger !!!
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blakep82
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| posted on 19/10/11 at 08:40 AM |
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this might explain it
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=162027
now, i'm off to get lynched by the "your post count is too high" police again 
its interesting though, why ask the question if you're not going to be happy with any of the answers?
my gf had a new bathroom installed in her council flat (she pays rent to the council) its not bad, but there's no pull cord isolator in the room
itself for the electric shower. the room never had a shower in it before last year and its all concrete walls etc, and the consumer unit is only in
the cupboard which is next tot he bathroom. I assume they ran the cable through the wall, under the bath and up to the shower. there is a rocker
switch with light in that cupboard though.
but as said, if there was one orginially, why not just replace it with a new one? if you were doing away with it completely, then you'd have to
connect up 2 cables some how anyways, might as well do that with an isolator switch!
[Edited on 19/10/11 by blakep82]
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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AndyW
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| posted on 19/10/11 at 11:51 AM |
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Just to add a note here, I was not un-happy with any of the reply's in fact I have got a local electrician coming round today after the advise
on here. He is going to install new isolator and find out why there is a live feed on the neutral, probably because of the fact that the twat
electrician who wired it in the first place has also wired the consumer unit wrong.
So, thanks for all the advise, thank you to the "thank you police", and I will, next time make sure I post back to say thanks.
hope I have not upset anyone as that was not my intention. Especially the guy who gave me a reply that "sparked" this off.
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