daniel mason
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:11 PM |
|
|
loading car on trailer issues! how do you guys do it?
am having a small ammount of trouble loading my car onto my trailer on my own as the car is relatively low and the sump guard (lower chassis rail)
hits a small bracket on the back of trailer when the front levels itself out on the bed,the bracket is welded to the trailer and is for holding the
ramps in when not in use.
the only way i can do it is to push the car up the ramps,get the front onto the flat bed.then jack up the rear of the car and put 2 pieces of
4"x3" timber under the rear of the ramps to get some clearence.
is there a better way than this? as its a pain and i dont like jacking the rear with the front so much higher when im on my own. and i dont have rooom
for longer ramps, or extra bits of wood when towing. cheers
|
|
|
|
|
eddie99
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:25 PM |
|
|
Not sure exactly but jack up the front of the trailer more?
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
edsco
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:28 PM |
|
|
Load the car in reverse....
Or like eddie99 said, jack up the front of the trailer more using the jockey wheel. I had the same issues, but used the techniques listed and all was
fine.
edsco
|
|
|
McLannahan
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:32 PM |
|
|
Don't do as I did and drive a 911 forwards onto a trailer....
It didn't end well...
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:34 PM |
|
|
Used to have the same issue entering/exiting my garage as my driveway is quite a steep angle. I made a couple of wooden skids about 1" thick
fixed to the floor. As the front wheels went over the skids it raised the underside of the car clear of the lip just enough to avoid grounding.
Assuming it's your own trailer this could be a simple/cheap/quick fix.
|
|
|
norfolkluego
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:36 PM |
|
|
As said, get the jockey wheel up as much as possible. If that's not enough (and it isn't for me) try what we've done, make up a
couple of wooden 'blocks' wide enough to drive the front wheels onto (effectively flattening the angle the car's at) and long enough
so that as the low point of the car passes over the back of the trailer the front wheels are still on the blocks, the thickness of the blocks will be
dictated by the extra clearance you need, mine are about two inches thick.
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:46 PM |
|
|
if you wind up the jockey wheel and un hitch the trailer from the car.the trailer flips when engine gets onto back of trailer! (ask me how i know) and
engine weight is behind the rear trailer axle.
and i cant back the car on the trailer as the rear arch hits the bump stops.
|
|
|
eddie99
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:47 PM |
|
|
Dont unhitch car then, just jack it up lots. Thats what i tend to do....
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:54 PM |
|
|
ive tried and it almost clears,but not quite!
|
|
|
eddie99
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 09:56 PM |
|
|
Maxxed out on jockey wheel or car wont go higher? If it maxes out on jockey wheel, put it on a 2 inch bit of wood or something similar.
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
locost750mc
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 10:04 PM |
|
|
Trying to picture it but normaly the belhousing casting lump on my gearbox catches the bottom of my trailer, to solve this firstly place a piece of
wood say 4" wide 1" deep and whatever lenght i find onto the bed of the trailer, then push the car onto trailer thur raising the front end
of the car and inch or so to clear the casting and trailer extremities 
|
|
|
T66
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 10:17 PM |
|
|
What about a purpose bit of wood cut to shape and bolted/fastened to the bed in the area of the bracket. Ie a small ramp to allow the car to clear the
bracket.
2 wedge shapes back to back either side of the bracket ?
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 10:59 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
if you wind up the jockey wheel and un hitch the trailer from the car.the trailer flips when engine gets onto back of trailer! (ask me how i know) and
engine weight is behind the rear trailer axle.
Small trolley jack require under the rear of the trailer to control the angle of the deck.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 11:00 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by T66
What about a purpose bit of wood cut to shape and bolted/fastened to the bed in the area of the bracket. Ie a small ramp to allow the car to clear the
bracket.
2 wedge shapes back to back either side of the bracket ?
Yup done that in the past a couple of length cut from scaffolding planks.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
rick q
|
| posted on 2/2/12 at 11:34 PM |
|
|
Best solution I've seen is to reverse the back wheels of the tow vehicle up onto some ramps. This raises the back of the vehicle / front of the
trailer significantly.
Works for a couple of very low race cars in one of our local clubs.
|
|
|
AdrianH
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 12:10 AM |
|
|
Going off you first post about putting some 4x3 timber under the ramps. I have to do similar, my trailer is in the garage and the drive slopes down
hill, so I have some wide pieces of timber about 3 or 4 inches high. I have cut one corner away so the wheel will go up it and also have a slot in
the top that the ramps sit in. Will try to do simple drawing to explain.
Adrian
 
Wooden bit for ramp
Piece of wood with the edge and slot cut with circular saw.
I can drive up the wood and ramp. The slot the ramp sits in, stops the block sliding out when the tyre hits.
[Edited on 3-2-12 by AdrianH]
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
|
|
|
trikerneil
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 05:37 AM |
|
|
I had the same problem with a very low exhaust that would catch the edge of my trailer.
I modded the drawbar so that it hinges. I unlock the hinge, lower the rear of the trailer and drive on. A pair of ex Jag E Type shockers control the
rate of descent.
Sorry for the state of the pictures but it's a bit parky outside this morning.
If you need more info just ask.
HTH
Neil
ACE Cafe - Just say No.
|
|
|
orton1966
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 06:49 AM |
|
|
extra planks
Surely for such a minor clearance issue the easiest/cheapest solution is to carry two stout planks and use these to extend the loading ramps i.e.
place one end on the ramp and one on the ground. This makes the ramps two stage, helping with front loading angle but also with issues like the one
mentioned because the rear wheels will be on these before the sump hits the offending bracket
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 08:35 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by orton1966
Surely for such a minor clearance issue the easiest/cheapest solution is to carry two stout planks and use these to extend the loading ramps i.e.
place one end on the ramp and one on the ground. This makes the ramps two stage, helping with front loading angle but also with issues like the one
mentioned because the rear wheels will be on these before the sump hits the offending bracket
Thats ^^^ what you see a lot of people doing with very low cars at races/trackdays. Even placing them flat on the ground with the ramps on top will
work if it's only a minor bit that catches.
I got some legs for the rear of my trailer to stop the "rear flip" problem. Picked them up at the Tatton Park classic show from a tool
stall. £20 for the pair but think the kid taking the money got it wrong and they should have been £20 each 
You do have to set them so they're off the ground when empty, otherwise once loaded I can't release them as the trailer suspention is down
a bit.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
ashg
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 08:43 AM |
|
|
on the brian james clubman. you put the ramps out. drive the car on, strap the car down put the ramps away then drive off. but then i guess
that's why they cost £1000. i used a converted caravan trailer once and got pissed off with it in 5 mins. the reality of it is that the beds on
converted caravan chassis are just too high as they are usually above the top of the wheels.
the only thing you can really do to sort the issue out is to make longer ramps which will reduce your approach angle and give you more clearance.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 10:05 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
on the brian james clubman. you put the ramps out. drive the car on, strap the car down put the ramps away then drive off. but then i guess
that's why they cost £1000. i used a converted caravan trailer once and got pissed off with it in 5 mins. the reality of it is that the beds on
converted caravan chassis are just too high as they are usually above the top of the wheels.
the only thing you can really do to sort the issue out is to make longer ramps which will reduce your approach angle and give you more clearance.
Depends on the height of you car. Seen loads of 'James Clubmans being loaded with additional blocks/ramps. Mines a Brian James.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
ashg
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 11:44 AM |
|
|
Can't see why. If I raise it at the front on the jockey wheel the numberplate flips up on its hinges out of the way and the back is so low to
the ground I can drive the 7 on without even using the ramps. If you have an lmp style car then I guess you may need have a bit of wood
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 12:22 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
Can't see why. If I raise it at the front on the jockey wheel the numberplate flips up on its hinges out of the way and the back is so low to
the ground I can drive the 7 on without even using the ramps. If you have an lmp style car then I guess you may need have a bit of wood
So you're not just putting the ramps out and driving on then; You're tilting it like loads of others have suggested they do.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
daniel mason
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 12:25 PM |
|
|
i think reversing the tow car onto some wood will be best. cheers
|
|
|
JimSpencer
|
| posted on 3/2/12 at 12:34 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
Can't see why. If I raise it at the front on the jockey wheel the numberplate flips up on its hinges out of the way and the back is so low to
the ground I can drive the 7 on without even using the ramps. If you have an lmp style car then I guess you may need have a bit of wood
Because your car is more than 40mm off the floor?
Bear in mind that a car set up for competition / track day use will quite often be around 40mm at the front chassis rail / bottom of sump off the deck
as a rough norm and things can get very close indeed - one see's all sorts of contraptions round paddocks to get the traler bed and the
ramp's aligned to avoid the 'lip' between the two..
Back to the OP's problem though:-
The other posts above confirm that the front needs to be as high as possible, to try and get that straight line through the trailer bed and the
ramps.
But you're having a canteliver problem too arn't you if i'm reading between the lines right, it tips and then the car bottoms as
well?
If so, and they're a damn good idea anyway, you need steady legs on the trailer corners. Set the rear to the height you want, wind the jockey
leg all the way, lower and clamp the front legs and that should give you a stable platform.
HTH
|
|
|
