ChrisW
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 11:12 AM |
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Epoxy primer - is it DIY'able?
Just wondering if there are any painters on here that can give me an opinion on this, please
My XR2 shell is currently at a position where it's been media blasted, had all the metalwork done, and is now awaiting a first layer of paint
before I do a dry build to make sure there is no more cutting and welding I want doing before 'real' paint. When it was blasted they
coated it in some kind of zinc stuff that provides protection and can be welded through. It's been dry stored, but it's been a year or
more now since and there are a couple of patches that are starting to show hints of orange which tells me I need to get on and get some proper paint
on it.
I'm told epoxy primer is the way to go. Just scotch it back and spray. I assume the final finish doesn't matter too much as it will have
to be primed and sanded flat again later.
Unfortunately funds don't permit getting this done professionally at the moment, but I don't want to leave it either in case in undoes all
the good work that has been done so far.
So, is this a job I can DIY at home? I've got a big compressor and a spray gun, and done a bit of cellulose before, although not with a huge
amount of success in terms of finish quality (but see above).
The big thing I haven't got is proper breathing equipment, air fed mask, etc, hence why I've only every attempted cellulose and left 2k
well alone. So, what's the situation with epoxy? Is it 'safe' to do without all the breathing equipment or am I asking for
trouble?
Will my normal paint gun be ok?
Any hints/tips/suggestions from someone 'in the know'?
Chris
My gaff my rules
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snakebelly
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 11:47 AM |
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Just had our tank done in water based epoxy etch by my
Mate who runs his own paint shop, took him 10 minutes and didn't use an air fed mask just a v good quality face mask
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r1_pete
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 12:04 PM |
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I Use this stuff Link
Excellent adhesion, quick drying and doesn't clog when dry sanded.
Oh and a decent mask.
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macc man
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 12:15 PM |
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I find the guys who sell the paint are very helpfull. I went to Autopaints nearby and got some epoxy etch primer which was easy to use with DIY equpt.
I used a good resporator face mask with a carbon filter in. Paint still hanging on a few years later.
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 12:29 PM |
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Hi Chris,
There are two epoxies worth using. One is the marine tar epoxy they use on ships. Smelly thick stuff.
The other that I use is Awlgrip. This is the stuff that every yacht in the world(nearly) has on as a primer. Just about all the big motor yachts use
it. It is THE best for your job. Hard as glass, you need to sand it between two and four days after application. After that, it's hard graft to
sand it.
Marineware in Southampton are the agents, get the thinner also.
You'll need a 2mm nozzle on your gun. A £20 gun off ebay will do the job you need, along with a good respirator.(no air feeds necessary, but
nice if you've got one.
That's how I've done it for more than 35 years, and still here.
Cheers,
Nev.
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Peteff
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 12:32 PM |
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Jotun Jotamastic off ebay in various colours. They use it on boats so it must be waterproof.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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ChrisW
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 02:29 PM |
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Thanks guys. That Awlgrip sounds like the way forward.
Chris
My gaff my rules
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 03:20 PM |
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If you go with Awlgrip, Chris, just note what I said about sanding.
One day after spraying, it's still a bit cheesy, and clogs the paper. Two and three days after spraying, it is firm~hard and sandable. Over 4
days after spraying, you'll need some friends and a couple of slabs of cans. 
Cheers,
Nev.
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 04:42 PM |
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if you are using Awlgrip 545 test for solvent reaction first if you are applying to a previously painted surface. We have had problems before and a
quick test will save a lot of grief.
Just soak a ball of cotton wool in the reducer and tape it to the surface. if it hasn't pickled the paint in an hour so you should be OK.
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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ChrisW
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 04:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Neville Jones
One day after spraying, it's still a bit cheesy, and clogs the paper. Two and three days after spraying, it is firm~hard and sandable. Over 4
days after spraying, you'll need some friends and a couple of slabs of cans.
I'll be handing it over to a bodyshop to do the paint 'proper', and I'd assume they'd put another few coats of primer on
top anyway as the body is far from perfect. To be honest, the sanding bit is what scares me as I just don't have the eye to spot when
I've sanded enough. Wish I knew someone with a bodyshop who'd perhaps let me paint the car myself but teach me along the way as bodywork
is one of the things I'd like to be a lot better at!
Anyway, here's my spray gun:
 
Spray gun 1
 
spray gun 2
Is it suitable? How do I know what nozzle I have? I took it apart, but the only number on it is the '0' on the face of the nozzle.
Chris
My gaff my rules
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plentywahalla
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| posted on 17/7/12 at 05:38 PM |
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If you are unsure of spraying then apply the epoxy primer with a roller and 'tip' it off with a jenny brush. You can still get a good
finish and as Nev says, if you time it right the primer will sand quite easily.
Use rollers that state that they are suitable for solvent based paints or they will fall apart. This method will save you time as it is much quicker
without masking and gun cleaning issues. It will also save you money as Awlgrip primers are expensive.
And ... you don't need a good eye when sanding, you need good fingers! You can feel a good finish far better than seeing one.
Rules are for the guidance of wise men ... and the obedience of fools. (anon)
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