turnipfarmer
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 02:56 PM |
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Temp Gauge Sender
Hi folks...
Silly question maybe but...
I'm about to wire up my water temp, gauge using the sender that came with it. The sender's going to be installed into the top hose via an
adapter.
I also want to install an adjustable thermo fan controller, but don't fancy using a capillary-type sender.
Is there any reason why I can't use the water temp gauge sender to do both jobs, or is it a complete no-no?
Thanks
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theprisioner
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 03:55 PM |
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If you intend using the one sensor for both jobs you need a fan controller. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing is a resistor dependant on
temperature. The bimetalic fan sensor has a rehostat at the end which has an on/off relationship with temperature.
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turnipfarmer
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 04:25 PM |
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Thanks for that.
Sure, I appreciate I'm going to need a fan controller as well as a relay and other wiring gubbins. It's just the capillary sender bit I
don't want to use.
But... if the capillary sender is is only doing the same job as the aftermarket sensor that runs the the temp gauge, then I thought I could maybe make
do with just that one.
That's the bit I wasn't sure of... are they entirely different animals or one and the same?
I'm not using the temp sensor in the thermostat housing btw.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 04:46 PM |
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They are completely different devices
The the thermistor sensorfor the gauge should go in the water outlet housing on the engine before the thermostat not the top hose, the
top hose is the wrong side of the thermostat to give a true reading.
If the temperature gauge sensor cannot be fitted in the normal position the next preferable position is in the by-pass hose close to the cylinder
head.
The fan thermostatic switch controls the fan based on the radiator temperature its job is to switch the fan to keep the radiator
coolant outlet temperature cool enough for the engine engine coolant thermostat to do its' job. It is better to use a fixed temperature fan
switch just choose the correct temperature switch based on the engine's own thermostat temperature. If you run an 88c thermostat and
mount the fan switch in the top hose you need a fan switch with a switch in temperature of about 96 or 97c and a switch off temperature of about 93
to 94c.
If you find these temperatures high remember the coolant boiling point under pressure is about 118c
[Edited on 27/12/12 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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turnipfarmer
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 04:59 PM |
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Brilliant! Thanks a lot!
To both replies above and below
[Edited on 27/12/12 by turnipfarmer]
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renetom
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| posted on 27/12/12 at 05:00 PM |
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temp
Hi
would it not be easier to fit a temp rad switch
to turn the fan on at a given temp
most radiators have a plug to fit one.
Then you need to know what temp it should switch
on & get the switch to suit.
One thing less to worry about.
That's what we did & it works great.
Good luck.
René
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turnipfarmer
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| posted on 10/1/13 at 10:44 AM |
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OK... I bit the bullet & got me a thermoswitch with a capillary sender.
Now installed, & in the process of being wired up, which in turn begs a question on the relay wiring.
Do I absolutely have to have two separate 12v connections, one to switched live the other to permanent live (direct to battery)?
I don't really want the fan running when the ignition is off.
Can I just link the two relay pins together using a Y lead & run them both to swtched live?
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