Pfw
|
| posted on 24/2/14 at 03:57 PM |
|
|
MT 75 Quickshift
Hi all
Anyone fitted the above to their gearbox, and do you have a how to guide ?? my box is in the car (Zero) so am presuming this is a right pain of a job
|
|
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 24/2/14 at 10:12 PM |
|
|
I've got a Zero with an MT75 box, and used the GBS quickshift.
I fitted it OK with the box & propshaft still in the car. Bit fiddly, but nothing more than that.
It goes in via the top of the transmission tunnel. Then it's just a matter of winkling into position, up & round the propshaft.
HTH
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 25/2/14 at 07:04 AM |
|
|
Thanks for that, as i am fairly new to the spanners, can i ask a couple of questions...
Do yoiu have to line gears up etc ?
Do you need special tools ?
and obviously....is it worth doing ?
Thanks again
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 25/2/14 at 10:15 AM |
|
|
Nope - no lining up the gears or special tools needed. It just bolts straight onto the outside of the box.
Definitely worth doing. Like many people, I found the Ford saddle affair makes the gearchange a bit vague . This makes it much more precise. Does away
with the 'lift for reverse' business as well.
Remove any existing saddle assembly, and also the 4 bolts on the gearbox where the quickshift attaches.
(see the 4th pic on this link... http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?product=8901)
Assemble the entire quickshift (if it isn't already) & drop the whole lot into the centre of the tunnel, under/alongside the propshaft.
Work it forwards to the back of the gearbox, then up and over the propshaft (this is the fiddly bit).
Then just bolt it to the gearbox using the same holes you took the 4 bolts from. You may be able to do this just with a spanner, but I found it easier
to use a 10mm socket on the end of a long extension bar. This way, the socket handle ends up in the middle of the tunnel, and although you're a
fair way from the bolt heads, you can get a straight run at them rather than having to work at an awkward angle, or jammed up against the chassis
crossmember.
Once bolted up, simply connect to the end of the gearchange shaft. There's a round coupling on the end of the quickshift rod with 2 metal pins
in it, each held in place with a rubber ring in a groove. Slide the rubber ring nearest the gearbox backwards & remove the pin. Push the coupling
over the end of the gearchange shaft. Line up the holes in the 2 shafts, push in the pin, & roll the rubber ring back into its groove.
Job done.
It should take you less time to do, than it's taken me to type this.
HTH
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 25/2/14 at 10:31 AM |
|
|
Great...thank you so much for that
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 25/2/14 at 12:24 PM |
|
|
I know this sounds thick but i had a quick look today and the mountings on the standard one look flat on the gearbox as opposed to vertical on the
quick shift, but with that said i only had 10 mins to whip the cover off so may not be looking in the right place......does anyone have a pic of what
i am actually removing ?
As mentioned earlier.....i am still learning and am fearful of making the car immovable !!
Thanks for your help so far
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 25/2/14 at 03:02 PM |
|
|
Take a look at this link...
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/MT75_Gearbox
There are some pics about halfway down showing how the saddle fits onto the gearbox.
Essentially there is a bolt on each side, & 2 on top. Remove those, & also the rod that goes into the top of the gearchange by tapping out the
retaining pin & lifting it clear.
Remember that the quickshift bolts into entirely different holes from those used to attach the saddle.
HTH
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 25/2/14 at 06:04 PM |
|
|
Thanks again...will digest later
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 03:22 PM |
|
|
OK...think i've got the idea now....one more question though when searching for more info i read on a buidl blog that when one was fitted they
had to adjust the "rose joint" to get the gears...could this be the fact that it was a new/recon box going in and that as mine is already
set up and running will not require it ?
Thanks again
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 03:57 PM |
|
|
It's only concerned with adjusting the rose joint on the quickshift itself.
It's the black & gold thing on pic 2 on this link... http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?product=8901
What happens is that if you tighten up the nut above it too much, you can restrict the amount the gear lever needs to travel to get the gears. Start
off with the nut just finger tight, and tighten it a bit at a time. When you reach the point where you can't get all the gears easily, back it
off again until you can.
Same applies to the other nut below it.
Again, a very quick job with a spanner.
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 04:13 PM |
|
|
Brill...and thanks again Turnip Farmer (Top name !!), Zero looks great by the way...what wheels are those ?
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 05:00 PM |
|
|
Thought I'd use the name Clarkson calls us!
Wheels? £80 off fleabay for the 4... including tyres! Absolutely unmarked as well!
Ripspeed, I think. Do for me at that price!
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
absolutely !7's ??
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 05:08 PM |
|
|
Er... not quite sure what you mean.
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 05:11 PM |
|
|
sorry...what size ?
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 26/2/14 at 05:15 PM |
|
|
15"
Ford fitting
4 x 108 pcd
ET35 offset (so have to use spacers & longer wheel studs)
Tyres are 195 x ??? (60 maybe - I forget!)
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 27/2/14 at 04:23 PM |
|
|
Did you remove the angled panel where the dash meets the transmission tunnel ?...looks impossible with out and my ECU is behind there
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 27/2/14 at 05:01 PM |
|
|
You mean you have a panel running vertically from the bottom of the dash to the top of the tunnel?
Lucky beggar - I didn't get one of those - had to make my own!
Yes, you will have to remove that, and the ecu with it. As you say, very difficult without that.
Having fun?
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 27/2/14 at 05:49 PM |
|
|
Not started yet...took top off again today to look at job...think i will disconnect batt before touching anything if ecu is involved !!...regarding
panel i thought they all had it...still learning...bought her complete so have not compared it to others
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 27/2/14 at 05:55 PM |
|
|
Yes - definitely disconnect the battery.
Depending on what's behind the panel, it may be as simple as pulling out the ecu plug.
(You should be so lucky!)
|
|
|
Pfw
|
| posted on 28/2/14 at 09:55 PM |
|
|
Ok...half way through and struggling like hell...i can only find 2 side bolts which have been slackened but on top can only see what look like bolts
but are a rivet type of thing. i darent take the sides completely out incase i get stuck...exactly where are the other 2 ?
also where the selector shaft goes into the box...do i just remove the oval circlip ?
Thanks again
|
|
|
turnipfarmer
|
| posted on 1/3/14 at 09:30 AM |
|
|
Ah, now - it's been a while since I did mine, so can't remember exactly what the fasteners were, & Ford do have a habit of changing
things.
I'm sure mine were bolts, though - can't see them being rivets.
Anyway, whatever they are, they should be on top of the saddle, right at the end, at the closest point to the gearbox itself. Only a couple of inches
back from being directly above the side bolts.
If they look like 'rivet type things', they could still be bolts, but with a recessed head that need either an allen key or torx bit to
remove them rather than a spanner or socket.
Whatever they are, if they're holding the saddle down, they have to come off.
As regards the connection to the selector shaft, it's essentially just a steel pin, but to get at it you will have to remove a couple of other
bits first. I recall there being circlips on mine. It is straightforward & you'll be OK if you just take your time & remove things one
by one.
On this link... http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/MT75_Gearbox ...about a third of the way down, there's an exploded view of a saddle assembly.
This isn't from a Sierra, but the magnified image of the selector connection should give you some idea of what's involved.
|
|
|
