chris68
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posted on 2/4/14 at 06:22 PM |
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MX-5 brake disc removal - am I being stupid!?
Hi guys,
Engine and gearbox out and now on the final stretch to complete the destruction but have come up against a prob. I have removed the complete front
brake calipers and according to the Haynes manual it says remove the disc. How is the disc held on? Is it just a slide fit and everything is held
together when the wheel is back on? I cant see any other fixings. Gentle tapping at the rear of the disc with a rubber mallet has not helped and
heavier banging with a large hammer against a piece of wood has not helped? Is it just years of road crap and rust preventing removal? Am I doing
something wrong?
Cheers guys.
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coozer
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posted on 2/4/14 at 06:24 PM |
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Any little screws holding the disk?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Slimy38
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posted on 2/4/14 at 06:27 PM |
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LOL, you've found the exact same situation I had!! From memory I found a way of hooking a bearing puller so it applied pressure to the face,
wound it on and waited for the bang. There was no way the discs were going to come off with just a soft hammer!
As far as I could tell they didn't use the normal fixing screws (studs rather than wheel bolts makes alignment a bit easier), they had simply
corroded themselves on to the hub.
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rash12
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posted on 2/4/14 at 06:43 PM |
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give them a good rattle they will come off
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BigLee
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posted on 2/4/14 at 07:07 PM |
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Hammer the central hub part of the disc all the way around. (The rusty bit between the disc and the face the wheel bolts too) And I mean really hammer
it! If your neighbours don't come out to see what the noise is, then you're not hitting it hard enough. Once you have gone right
'round, give it a hit from the back. It'll come off. It just needs persuading.
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chris68
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posted on 2/4/14 at 07:22 PM |
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I will try and raise the dead with the hammering then!! Its a relief to know I haven't missed a concealed fixing as I was expecting to find
some screws holding the disc on.
Cheers all
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adithorp
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posted on 2/4/14 at 07:26 PM |
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Sounds like the disc and hub flange have rusted together. As Lee says, hit the top hat all the way around until it comes loose. If it starts to come
off then goes tight knock it back on and repeat as there's probably a rusty ring on the sides of the disc centre thats getting stuck behind the
hub flange.
If in doubt... HIT IT!
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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BigLee
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posted on 2/4/14 at 07:38 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by chris68
I will try and raise the dead with the hammering then!! Its a relief to know I haven't missed a concealed fixing as I was expecting to find
some screws holding the disc on.
Cheers all
Speaking of concealed fixings, don't forget to use the Allen key to wind back the rear pistons. It's under a little yellow plastic cover.
If you go old-school and force the issue, it'll strip the threads on the handbrake mechanism. Just a heads up!
Cheers
Lee
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chris68
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posted on 2/4/14 at 07:42 PM |
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Cheers for the heads up. I had noticed a different system on the rears but had spent most of the time cursing and swearing with the fronts!
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nero1701
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posted on 2/4/14 at 08:08 PM |
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Take the lot off in one go then have a crack at some electrolysis
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nick205
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posted on 2/4/14 at 08:17 PM |
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Are you wanting to reuse the discs? If not then a little heat with a blow torch may also help free the disc.
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Dingz
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posted on 2/4/14 at 08:50 PM |
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Haynes says they 'slip off the wheel studs' no mention of a BIG hammer
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
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chris68
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posted on 2/4/14 at 09:13 PM |
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Yes that always makes me chuckle. When you look at the pictures for hub removal all the parts are nice, shiny and new not the rusted crud you often
have to deal with making a simple job take ages.
I had thought of the blowtorch option but having a wooden floor that got soaked in oil and then some petrol I thought better of it!
The cap over the hub nut is also stuck fast but I guess some careful use of drifts etc will get that free (or hack it off).
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indykid
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posted on 2/4/14 at 09:44 PM |
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There's an m8 tapped hole in each disc. Stick a bolt in and use it as a screw jack to separate the disc from the hub face. It's what
it's there for.
It may still need a good clout, but it will be a lot more effective once the joint is preloaded with the bolt.
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britishtrident
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posted on 2/4/14 at 09:47 PM |
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Most top hat style discs come off easily they either are retained by clips or countersunk screws but some types (for example Montego and
Maestro) don't because the designer didn't leave enough clearance to allow for rust build up and no amount of hammering with a huge hammer
will move them and you end up butchering them with an angle grinder.
You can buy specialist pullers for removing this type of disc but they cost.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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snapper
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posted on 3/4/14 at 05:45 AM |
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Same thing happened on my 53 plate Mondeo
I had to heat discs very hot then use a 5lb club and a sledge to get them off
Ruined them
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Slimy38
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posted on 3/4/14 at 07:44 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by britishtrident
Most top hat style discs come off easily they either are retained by clips or countersunk screws but some types (for example Montego and
Maestro) don't because the designer didn't leave enough clearance to allow for rust build up and no amount of hammering with a huge hammer
will move them and you end up butchering them with an angle grinder.
You can buy specialist pullers for removing this type of disc but they cost.
Thankfully the MX5 discs aren't that bad, once I'd got the faces separated I could see there was a good amount of clearance between the
edge of the hub and the inner face of the disc. They did just fall off. And I'd decided beforehand that a new set of discs and pads would be a
sensible expense so I wasn't bothered about the friction surface.
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adithorp
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posted on 3/4/14 at 09:38 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by snapper
Same thing happened on my 53 plate Mondeo
I had to heat discs very hot then use a 5lb club and a sledge to get them off
Ruined them
If Mondeo discs don't come off with a couple of hit we go straight to the cutting disc. They're the worst for corrotion behind the flange
and not worth wasting time on... We have got very good at knowing where and how deep to cut before using a chissle to split the last bit.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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chris68
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posted on 3/4/14 at 06:29 PM |
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Update: Thanks to all the suggestions I have got the front discs off - cheers guys. Using a lump hammer and a piece of wood I hit the living
daylights out of the area between the wheel studs and a gentle tap from the rear and the disc fell off.
I thought the hub nut was going to be a bugger but I found the offside was not staked and only took limited pressure to undo and although the nearside
was staked it only required slightly more effort!!
To get the upright off I removed the lower wishbone through bolt and used a hacksaw to cut the upper wishbone, then pulled the assembly forward and
tapped off the ball joints.
Hooray!! I've got all the bits needed for exchange.
Thanks again guys - no doubt I shall call on your knowledge again soon.
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Slimy38
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posted on 3/4/14 at 06:37 PM |
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On the subject of wishbones, I spent three hours detaching the front uprights from the various other parts.... and three weeks doing the same for the
rears!!
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