Rena
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| posted on 29/5/14 at 04:20 PM |
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Raceline Waterrail - problems
Hi,
I have started my engine for the first time today. Unfortunately I had problems with my coolingsystem. I´m running a Zetec 2,0 with Raceline waterrail
AND an headertank.
The problem is, just seconds after I started the engine the coolant were flowing from the cap on waterrail. The cap is a standard that was delivered
with the waterrail so I think it´s a pressurized.
How should I do to get my cooling system working? The headertank is from a Volvo 740.
Any ideas how to get this working?
THANKS!
Best regards
Fredrik
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jeffw
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| posted on 29/5/14 at 04:25 PM |
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You'll need to have a drawing of how it is connected up before anyone can help you.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 29/5/14 at 05:18 PM |
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This is how I did mine:
 
enginedone
Cap on rail is a plain cap, no pressure regulator, from an austin 1300
Pressure cap is on the header tank.
Bottom of header tank is connected into the heater return and then the bottom hose.
the hose from just below the rail cap connects to the pressure side of the header tank, this ensures the engine is always full of coolant.
I've sold the car now, but its done several European tours with no problems....
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Rena
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| posted on 29/5/14 at 05:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
This is how I did mine:
enginedone
Cap on rail is a plain cap, no pressure regulator, from an austin 1300
Pressure cap is on the header tank.
Bottom of header tank is connected into the heater return and then the bottom hose.
the hose from just below the rail cap connects to the pressure side of the header tank, this ensures the engine is always full of coolant.
I've sold the car now, but its done several European tours with no problems....
Do you know where to find a cap like that?
I have only wound caps with pressure regulators.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 29/5/14 at 06:01 PM |
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A plain cap is designed to be used with the overflow connected to a presurised header tank.
To avoid the danger of air locks it is best to have only one pressure cap on the system.
If you have room at the rear of the engine to it the standard thermostat consider ditching the water rail.
[Edited on 29/5/14 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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r1_pete
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| posted on 29/5/14 at 06:26 PM |
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This is the type of cap I used.
Radiator Cap for Jaguar E Type 1967-71 not spill tank FC57 7966709
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Rena
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| posted on 30/5/14 at 06:52 AM |
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I have plumbed the system exactly as this diagram.
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coozer
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| posted on 30/5/14 at 02:20 PM |
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The header tank must NOT be connected to the rail. That's what's cause it to overflow
It should go to the bottom rad hose as close to the rad as possible and the bleed to the top of the rad.
Best way is to go back to the original Ford thermo unit and plumb it up correctly with a bypass circuit and the dual thermostat..
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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britishtrident
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| posted on 30/5/14 at 03:06 PM |
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Just too underline outlet from over flow on non-pressurised cap fitting goes to the top of pressurised header tank this gets rid of air in the rad and
head water spaces. If you don't do this or at least block it off coolant will wee out.
The water rail should be full to the brim the header tank provides the expansion space. The header tank level is normally slightly higher than the
top of water rail so coolant will come out if the cap on the rail is removed.
The bottom of header tank goes to the bottom hose.
As in many posts on these problematic water rails in the past the thermostat needs to be drilled to bodge a bypass or the thermostat won't
open until then engine is very hot.
[Edited on 30/5/14 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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ross05
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| posted on 30/5/14 at 04:25 PM |
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raceline
I had the same problem on a 2ltr black top, Spoke with Raceline and they suggested dump the expansion tank. You are then using what they called a
total loss system sounds scary but works 100 %.If you leave about 1.5 inches of water from the top of the thermostat housing, the water has room to
expand.
I have just completed a 2000 mile trip from southern Spain to Scotland via Stoneleigh and back with no problems.
I can take a photo and email it to you or contact Raceline and they will send you details of what to do.
Hope this helps.
PS my car also had a run on the RR at NMS with no water issues. (163.5 bhp)
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Rena
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| posted on 30/5/14 at 07:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ross05
I had the same problem on a 2ltr black top, Spoke with Raceline and they suggested dump the expansion tank. You are then using what they called a
total loss system sounds scary but works 100 %.If you leave about 1.5 inches of water from the top of the thermostat housing, the water has room to
expand.
I have just completed a 2000 mile trip from southern Spain to Scotland via Stoneleigh and back with no problems.
I can take a photo and email it to you or contact Raceline and they will send you details of what to do.
Hope this helps.
PS my car also had a run on the RR at NMS with no water issues. (163.5 bhp)
I would appreciate photos 
Could you send them to fredrik.rena@gmail.com
Thanks!
[Edited on 30/5/14 by Rena]
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ross05
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| posted on 30/5/14 at 07:44 PM |
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no problem will sort in the morning.
Ross
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Rena
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| posted on 31/5/14 at 06:58 AM |
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Just a quick question. Could anyone show me a picture of their thermostat with drilled holes?
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Rena
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| posted on 31/5/14 at 09:07 AM |
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I have been awake the half night just thinking about my cooling system.
Given all the expertise available here, I would need help to get my cooling system to work out with the components I´ve already got.
First a picture of how the engine compartments look today.
The components I have got, besides the waterrail are a radiator from a Volvo 740 and a expansion tank from a Volvo 240.
As today I have connected following:
D to waterpump
C to waterrail
A (I think it´s the overfill, 8 mm hose) to 1 on the headertank
B (16 mm hose, I think´s it´s the filler) to 2 on the headertank
The small hose from the cooler A is also connected with a T-piece to the small outlet om the waterrail and then to the headertank.
Can this setup work?!?! Or do I have to connect the headertank 2 with the D on the radiator?
My friend have told me this setup should work IF i hold the headertank at the highest point when bleeding the system.
I have ordered a non pressurized cap to the rail and fitted pressurized cap on the headertank.
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ross05
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| posted on 31/5/14 at 09:21 AM |
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Raceline
Just sent you a drawing of my system.Looking at your photo I think the small pipes on your radiator are causing the problems.
Hope this helps Ross.
File sent to your email address.
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Rena
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| posted on 31/5/14 at 09:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ross05
Just sent you a drawing of my system.Looking at your photo I think the small pipes on your radiator are causing the problems.
Hope this helps Ross.
File sent to your email address.
Thanks!
I will check the picture later.
Do you mean both small pipes?
The smallest pipe is for bleeding the system, so how to bleed the system without the small connector?
[Edited on 31/5/14 by Rena]
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ross05
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| posted on 31/5/14 at 09:38 AM |
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yes both small pipes.Study the drawing and check your system. Mine works fine plumbed as per drawing.
Give me a shout if you need more info as I am no artist.
The rad cap should be the highest point so bleeding should not be a problem.
[Edited on 31/5/14 by ross05]
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