b3nny
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| posted on 1/8/14 at 07:12 PM |
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fluctuating water temp
this could be perfectly normal but After fitting a new stat yesterday (opening at 93) I have noticed when cruising she tends to creep up to around 115
then falls very quickly to around 88/92 and this seems to be a intermittent cycle, could this be due to the fact I have a koso digital gauge so I see
every movment of the temperature where as if it was analog gauge the temp would have fallen before the needle would have had chance to move.
Another theory is the position of the race line stat and sensor location, because the stat is at the cooler end than the temp sender and the sender is
seeing these temps before the stat opens and then once open this is why I'm seeing the temp rapidly fall?
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ashg
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| posted on 1/8/14 at 09:03 PM |
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sounds like you have got an airlock somewhere in the system to me. i have a koso temp sender and its rock solid. 115deg is way too high don't
keep running it up to that temp or it may cause you issues. 80/85deg on cruise is normal.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/8/14 at 10:23 AM |
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The cause of your problem is simply the desgn of your Raceline thermostat housing.
These are a poorly designed bit of kit, to work a thermostat needs coolant from the engine freely circulating over the wax capsule hot
(engine) side of the thermostat. This is called by-pass flow and it normally takes the form of a pipe between the thermostat housing very close to
the hot side of the thermostat and a small diameter inlet on the water pump or bottom hose.
By-pass flow not only allows the thermostat to work correctly without large step changes in temperature but prevents over cooling in the lower half of
the cylinder block. On. Ford tintops with an "air blending" heater the heater itself forms the by-pass plumbing, on an kit car with a
water valve controlled heater additional plumbing is requireed to allow by-pass coolant to flow when the heater is set to cold..
The best fix is to revert to the standard thermostat housing, you could also modify the the housing to provide by-pass flow or remove the thermostat
and fit a Land rover external stat (an ugly bit of plumbing but effective).
The quick and dirty fix is to drill two 2.5 mm in the thermostat, this alows enough flow around the thermostat for it to work but doesn't allow
proper by-pass flow around the whole engine.
[Edited on 2/8/14 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 2/8/14 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 2/8/14 at 10:58 AM |
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As commented above the Raceline Water Rail places the thermostat in a totally incorrect position i.e. basically at the end of a pipe with no flow
until the stat opens. Instead of the flow of water opening the stat it relies on the transmission of heat through the stationary water which takes
ages and in the meantime the engine goes well above the normal temp. When it does finally open the engine gets a slug of cold water through it which
can cause further issues with thermal shock.
Racelines cure for this is to drill a hole in the stat to allow some flow of water through the water rail, simply a bodge and still does not allow
sufficient water to fglow around the engine during warm up.
The correct way is to junk the Raceline water rail and fit the standard Ford stat housing. It has the bypass pipe which allows circulation of water
around the engine during warm up and the gradual introduction of cold water form the radiator.
I believe the retro Ford water rail works in the same way as the Ford stat housing if you have insufficient space at the back of the engine for the
Ford unit.
Here is how to pipe it up.
 
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b3nny
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| posted on 2/8/14 at 12:35 PM |
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How they get away with selling this is beyond me then if it's totally not fit for purpose, I bought the car with it on obviously somebody
hasn't done there homework, I think eventually I'm going to revert back to Ford's orginal design but as a temp fix I'll drill
the holes in the stat.
My stat has a hole with a niggle pin do I need to remove the jiggle pin and drill x1 fresh hole or leave the jiggle pin in and drill x2 fresh
holes?
Also when I bought the car the stat had been removed, when fitting the new stat should the spring side be facing up towards the filler cap or down
intowards the engine?
Thanks
[Edited on 2/8/14 by b3nny]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/8/14 at 02:14 PM |
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If you examine the thermostat, look inside the spring and you will see a little copper/brass capsule, this is the wax capsule that makes the
thermostat move and this goes to the engine side of the thermostat housing so it is exposed to the hottest coolant.
If you remove the jiggle pin you only need one extra hole.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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