hobbitz
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 posted on 12/12/15 at 12:32 AM |
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Diff to prop shaft problems
Hiya all,
I'm having a few problems so I thought I'd join up on and see if any of the nice people on here can help with one of them!
I know I'm not quite in the right place as compared to most of you I'll be missing a wheel - I'm actually building a trike, but this
evening came across a problem that I suspect makes this the right place to ask my question and hopefully get answers.
I've got to the stage in my build where I need to connect the driveshaft from the power plant to the rear diff, which is from a Sierra (please
don't ask year/model as I've no idea, BUT I have got a selection of measuring tools if needed), and I have just discovered the UJ at the
tail end of the section of prop shaft I've been hoarding is actually stuffed, a broken rubber ring and a horrible notch in it where it must have
sat for years, and of course, Sodd's Law says that the joint is one of the non-strippable ones.
So, I need to replace it. I've looked on the 'bay and the ones I see there look no better than mine and the selection is limited, so I
finally come to my question -
As far as the flange on the Diff, what options do I have as to other prop shafts that will fit on it?
The bolt holes on the flange appear to be in a rectangle, 60mm x 70mm ish centers
All I actually need is the UJ knuckle/yoke assembly, no shaft tubing, so hopefully I have a wider selection available to search for.
My intention is to get the solid, shaft side of the yoke drilled to take the bike's shortened drive shaft and welded into place - it works for
my 1100 trike so will do fine for a 750!
Another possibility is someone may even be able to recommend a shaft servicer or similar who may be able to supply just the end I need and in new or
as new condition, or someone could have a shagged end lying around unwanted, but that is a strippable/repairable one.
Any ideas or suggestions welcome, and thanks in advance, Hobbitz.
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snapper
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| posted on 12/12/15 at 07:25 AM |
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Dunnings & Fairbank
Bailey Morris
There are others
I expect the Locost collective to add further options
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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40inches
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| posted on 12/12/15 at 10:19 AM |
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There is a 3 wheel section you may be interested in. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/31/
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Lander
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| posted on 15/12/15 at 08:33 AM |
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I used Bailey Morris, very helpful guys.
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hobbitz
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| posted on 18/12/15 at 12:17 AM |
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Well, today is 17th Dec and tomorrow I send my bits off to be made one.
It seems I have German GKN forgings which are hollow, which could have made things more complex, however the Gent they are off to is not only going to
weld the shaft in for me but change the UJ from staked to circlip which apparently involves a meatier yoke.
We shall see what happens but he says it'll only be a day or two so may be back in time for Xmas - not holding breath though, I'm
expecting early New Year
I'll let people know how things go, especially as this bloke quoted me just under a Ton less than Bailey Morris or Dunnings and Fairbank, yes I
can hear you - you get what you pay for, but is that any reason to pay OTT prices? If the job lasts I'm happy and I know the work and time
that's needed, I have knowledge and experience but not the equipment and my favourite (OK only) "family" engineer retired and his
workshop got split and sold else I'd be there having a chat and coffee.
Anyway, the Gent I've been referring to is John McMahon from http://www.gripperlsd.com/ or Dave Mac Propshafts and as I say, I'll give a
report in the new year as to turnaround and workmanship.
Cheers for the help, ta-ta for now, Hobbit.
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MikeR
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| posted on 18/12/15 at 12:13 PM |
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Dave Mac has a good reputation....
Although I've not seen any of his work / used him - i've also not heard of any complaints.
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hobbitz
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 06:55 PM |
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OK, this guy is fast!
Parts left here by standard Hermes courier Friday, delivered at 12.26 on Monday Dec 21st, and - if I hadn't spent most of the afternoon in the
hospital getting my newly-mashed finger seen to < Today's lesson: Don't bodge - GET and USE the right tools, in this case bending 12mm
round bar in a vice is a no-no, leaning hard on it and having a finger in the way when everything slips gets a little, um, painful  and colourful,
shall we say  . The nail will regrow......eventually> - it would have been paid for and away from that end at around three this afternoon
(Tuesday). No idea how or when it'll come back but shipping's £15.
Looking at the bill, we have the flange yoke, a UJ and a solid tube yoke all replaced, and as I can't think of anything else that is supposed to
go there I don't think there's anything of my original Ford bits left, not a problem! Then the rest of the job - to bore out, weld and
balance the new assembly - we came to £110, add the shipping and the dreaded VAT and we get a grand total of £150, which in my opinion is a good price
for what was done.
Oh well, a few days off means a lazy Xmas, lazier than I wanted but never mind.
All the best to everyone out there, see ya after it's over, Hobbit.
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hobbitz
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| posted on 30/12/15 at 01:52 PM |
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Hiya,
Back again for what should be the last instalment of the shaft saga.
30th Dec, middayish and the courier bod is standing outside my door with the shaft in his hand,,, sorry, the box with my shaft in ,,, no,, anyway, it
came today,,, no, arrived today, nice and shiny black, and a good job by the look of things too.
Just one teensy-weensy little problem, it's too damn long! All my fault and as they say - measure twice and cut once.
Only about 1mm out, but just enough to stop the ring on the base of the flange slipping over the diff nose shaft end...........
Angry grinder time as soon as I can then, I seem to have three choices if I don't want to dismount the diff again:
take a small amount off the engine end off the shaft - there's a ring on it to stop it sliding too far into that yoke but there'd still be
clearance especially once the shaft is over the flange ring at the other end and bolted, or
Grind that ring off or a channel through it to let it slip over the shaft nose, OK plan but not sure how much the balance of the shaft would be
affected, or, and I think this is quickest, easiest and most likely
Take enough off the shaft end to let the flange ring pass over. There's going to be plenty left for gripping if the diff needs stripping at some
stage in the future.
A few more days and I should have my finger back in a usable state again, seems I ripped the nail up and out from the bottom corner, and I've
had about 1/3 of the nail from base to tip removed, so I'll repeat for the people who may have missed it last time -
Learn from this and get the right tools before things bite back!
I'm also looking at mechanics gloves but as I've always done things bare-fingered I'm not sure how I'd get on, especially if I
have to switch gloves every time (mostly) I change job or tool.
I suppose it's that or keep banging the hands and swearing.
Summary of the thread - Dave Mac is a good fast engineer but about £100 cheaper than some other places I went to for quotes and I thoroughly
recommend him.
The deciding factor was his attitude and language, he didn't give the impression of a back-street bod, cobbling things together, he was clear in
his advice and cautions and knew exactly what was needed almost as soon as he answered the phone.
If I need more shafts doing I know who's getting the job!
Ok, that's all folks, Happy New Year to everyone, and if you happen to be in West Wales and see a trike, give it a wave, it could be me!
Hobbit.
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