AndyGT
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 05:00 PM |
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what else???
He everyone.
No this is not a coffee advert but a small request for advice!! Maybe someone out there can help me out with my problem?
I have a 1600 xflow in my car and all has been going well until I began getting orange water and the car started popping and farting around. I took
the head off to find cracked hardened valve seats and a slightly warped head. Have a spare head so cleaned everything up, relapped the valves etc etc
and then put the head on and the car ran much better but still popping on the carb and backfiring through the exhaust on full throttle (seems to die
but pickup again when throttle is closed). I changed the dizzy, fitted new points, new coil, new plugs, new leads but still popping and farting!! I
changed the 32/32 1300 twinchoke that I had fitted with a 32/36 that I had sitting around of unknown condition. The car ran really bad but seemed to
have the same problem whe I got the revs up. So I bought a 40 dfi progressive twinchoke and fitted this and the car sounds "sweet-as" and
extremely responsive but on full throttle it is still dropping on the pickup and popping on carb and backfiring. So now I am thinking that something
else is not right or set right?
Would incorrect tappet gaps cause this? A faulty set of points? Another faulty coil? The tappets are the only thing that I haven't touched
since refitting the head!! Any help or suggestions appreciated...
Andy
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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owelly
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 05:13 PM |
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Air leak on the inlet?
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 05:26 PM |
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I'd check the fuel pump and replace any fuel filters
[Edited on 21/9/16 by gremlin1234]
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AndyGT
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 05:26 PM |
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Thanks for that. Possibility and I have already checked that but will do it again!!
List up to now:
Inlet Manifold leak.
Tappets.
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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chris_smith
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 05:41 PM |
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Have you set tappets both cold and hot?
The secret of success is to know something nobody else knows."
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obfripper
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 06:00 PM |
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Did you change the condenser along with the points?
I had this with my old mk2 escort, it took me 3 hours to do 30 miles due to the duff condenser.
Also carefully check the rotor arm for any signs of tracking through to the distributor shaft.
Dave
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AndyGT
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 06:18 PM |
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The cap and rotor arm were both changed at the same time as the meads and plugs!!
The condensor was also changed along with the points!! But thanks for the suggestion.
I think the chances of changing a faulty part with a new faulty part are near to impossible but still a possibility!!
Its beginning to drive me crazy!!
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 06:34 PM |
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Is it a FoMoCo Distributor with a big black cap, these were prone to the nylon support for the cam follower going weak when hot giving all sorts of
timing issues.
Doing the tappets AFTER a head swap is a must do item.
Also are the balance weights in the distributor working correctly.
JMH2P'sW. 
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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steve m
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 07:16 PM |
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Are you still using points and condenser ? how 1970's
They are crap, buy yourself something like, this, but check it fits your dizzy and carb
AccuSpark Stealth Electronic Ignition Points Conversion Kit For LUCAS 25D + DM2
it gave me better starting, running etc etc
but on the overrun my xflow still farts and splutters and bangs, but hit the throttle, and its all gone
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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AndyGT
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 08:24 PM |
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hitting the throttle is the problem! at least full throttle...
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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benchmark51
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| posted on 21/9/16 at 08:49 PM |
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Have you checked the bob weights and springs under the distributor base plate? Springs can break and the weights can seize up. I would ditch the
points/condenser set up and fit electronic set up. I used accuspark on mine, works a treat. Do a compression test to makes sure they are near each
other and reset the valve clearances. Look for air leaks any where in the exhaust system, the hole in the end is acceptable. lol
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AndyGT
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| posted on 22/9/16 at 12:13 PM |
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Thanks everyone for your advice
Just to say that on seperating the inlet manifold from the head, I have discovered a splitting servo vacuum pipe for the brakes. I suspect that this
is/was letting air in from time to time...
At least I now know that the car has had a complete overhaul and should be right for a long time to come and I have a good supply of (used) spares if
they are need...
nothing is impossible
everything is possible
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