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Author: Subject: General BEC "control" question
Freestyle_998

posted on 16/1/18 at 11:40 AM Reply With Quote
General BEC "control" question

Hi Gang,

I know all these answers are out there, but i was hoping to get a bit of a discussion in one place based on your experiences.

I have a R1- 5VY, mid engined, in a buggy that I am building.

Everything is naturally more or less scratch built. I want to keep it simple (and low cost) to start off so i can hopefully enjoy it this year!!

I am wondering what to do about gear control, clutch and accelerator cable.

For my gears, I am considering using a hydraulic handbrake and mutilating is (cheap place for a billet leaver)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Hydraulic-Handbrake-Racing-Parking-Emergency-Brake-Lever-Black/332024238237?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_tr ksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372

For the clutch - a cable, with a spring on the pedal to improve feel, and possibly a spring on the clutch arm?
I currenly have hydraulic, but makes no sense to go that route i don't think?

for the accelerator - not sure yet, my existing pedal is shittly positioned and was always sticky with the 4m+ lenght.
The R1 has 2 cables - I don't know why, I assume 1 is enough!!


If i did a paddle shift, do I keep my cable clutch?

I might like to go semi auto / flat shifter in the future - i can't quite work this out in my head, how does the clutch fit here if all the other controls have gone?

any experiences with good solutions and bad appreciated!

Thanks, Al

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ReMan

posted on 16/1/18 at 04:53 PM Reply With Quote
For my gears, I am considering using a hydraulic handbrake and mutilating is (cheap place for a billet leaver)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Hydraulic-Handbrake-Racing-Parking-Emergency-Brake-Lever-Black/332024238237?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_tr ksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372

YES WHY NOT. IT LOOKS NISE YOU JUST NEED TO AND FABRICATE AND FIT PUSH PULL CABLE AT EACH END

For the clutch - a cable, with a spring on the pedal to improve feel, and possibly a spring on the clutch arm?
I currenly have hydraulic, but makes no sense to go that route i don't think?
I;D STICK WITH CABLE FOR THIS APP

for the accelerator - not sure yet, my existing pedal is shittly positioned and was always sticky with the 4m+ lenght.
The R1 has 2 cables - I don't know why, I assume 1 is enough!!
I BELIVE IT HAS TWO SO ONE PULLS SHUT AS A BACK UP!
YOU ONLY NEED ONE AS LONG AS YOU FOT A GOOD RETURN SPRING AT THE ENGINE END , WHICH HELPS THE FEEL TOO

If i did a paddle shift, do I keep my cable clutch?
YES YOU'LL ALWAYS NEED A CLUTCH

I might like to go semi auto / flat shifter in the future - i can't quite work this out in my head, how does the clutch fit here if all the other controls have gone?
FLAT SHIFTERS JUST CHOP THE POWER OFF MOMENTARILY TO UNLOAD THE DRIVETRAIN FOR THE SHIFT . YOU STILL HAVE FULL CLUTCH CONTROLL IF YOU NEED IT
BIKES ENGINES ONLY NEED THE CLUTCH FROM A STANDSTILL AT THE LIGHTS TO GET YOU MOVING :-) ONCE UNDERWAY THEY'LL *MAINLY*GO THROUGH THE GEASRS WITHOUT THE CLUTCH





www.plusnine.co.uk
∙،į. ˘‘≈Űﺣ

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TimC

posted on 16/1/18 at 08:33 PM Reply With Quote
If you can get the cable connection close enough to the pivot, itís possible to get this level of control:


I do have a spring return on the pedal too but I have no brakes so the ability to modulate was rather important when it came to not creating a video that would go viral as I crash through the wall ahead!






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Freestyle_998

posted on 17/1/18 at 08:54 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the inputs so far guys. Very helpful.

Must admit bikes are nearly totally new to me so I didn't know it was OK to clutchless shift!! Some things are making more sense now!



Do you have any pics of your pivot Tim? I had a quick look in the gallery but couldn't see. Why's ya got no brakes? nutter

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TimC

posted on 18/1/18 at 09:33 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Freestyle_998
Do you have any pics of your pivot Tim? I had a quick look in the gallery but couldn't see.


Iíve just had a look for a decent image - I do have something but itís not the best angle or quality:
Clutch cable attachment
Clutch cable attachment

The pivot has the arrow going to it. Iíve also reminded myself that there is a bit more to it than putting the cable close to the pivot in my case although that would help.

What Iíve got is a modified Escort Mk2 pedalbox with a small male rod end bolted to what is effectively a piece of flat bar. A clevis then attaches the (Venhill Superlight) cable to the rod end. When the pedal is pushed-down, the clevis travels on a path a bit like the middle quartiles of a ski jump - a sort-of crescent shape.

Hence, the clevis starts by pulling up and back and then much more directly back later in its sweep. It therefore gives a rising-rate effect. As the video shows, it works even better than Iíd hoped. Iíve had a couple of BECs where the on/off clutch was just very unsatisfactory.

Iíve also seen first-hand two accidents in BECs (I was passenger in one of them) as a direct result of them being very difficult to control on the throttle. Hence, Iíve done something similar on my throttle albeit with less rising rate but a very long throttle travel.

quote:
Originally posted by Freestyle_998
Why's ya got no brakes? nutter


Iíve not managed to fill them yet. The Eezibleed system I have is more of an Eezileak or Eezispendlotsoftimeclearingupthemess and I havenít been able to enrol the services of an assistant yet.


[Edited on 18/1/18 by TimC]






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Freestyle_998

posted on 18/1/18 at 12:01 PM Reply With Quote
Excellent - thanks - I'll digest that.


Share your pain with the messibleed. these days I have been using a gunson easibleed at about 15-20psi max, and I haven't spilled that much. I cover everything in plastic to catch the drips

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Freestyle_998

posted on 8/2/18 at 01:42 PM Reply With Quote
Think this'll work....



Budget sequential shifter

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CosKev3

posted on 8/2/18 at 03:04 PM Reply With Quote
Are you going rods or cable to the engine?
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Freestyle_998

posted on 8/2/18 at 03:38 PM Reply With Quote
Cable I think. will need to curve it to avoid the exhaust manifold
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