Nick Davison
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| posted on 6/8/05 at 04:26 PM |
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Boy did she squeal!!!
Took it down the road the other day (private road obviously!!). My wife was in the passenger seat, boy did she squeal when I put my foot down and
that was before the Turbo kicked in. When the torbo did kick in it was me doing the squealing!
Had a look at Europa Spares web site for some exhaust wrap and heat shield cloth. How expensive is that!!!
Has anyone found a cheaper source for this over priced but essential material??
Nick
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 6/8/05 at 05:23 PM |
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Exhaust wrap at trawler supply chandlers is 89p per metre for 50mmx3mm, comes in white, but it slightly discolours when the exhaust turns orange!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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JoelP
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| posted on 6/8/05 at 06:44 PM |
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i was gonna post this question too! I asked it a while ago but wanted to check if anyone had found a cheaper source since! I need a fair amount for
the new car 
this was my previous source:
http://www.proven-products.co.uk/products/cooltek.htm
[Edited on 6/8/05 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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wicket
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| posted on 6/8/05 at 08:17 PM |
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I used Pwerap from Rally Design
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=261_262
and
http://www.lma-group.com/motorsport/Products/Motorsport_Parts/motorsport_parts.html
brought at local motorfactors
[Edited on 6/8/05 by wicket]
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 09:23 AM |
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The Proven Products site says that it shouldn't be used to wrap cast iron as it cracks. With most manifolds manufactured from cast iron has
this been experienced by anyone?
Nick
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JoelP
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 06:02 PM |
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not sure about it cracking. Mine is not cast though, i think. I would limit it to just the areas that arent cast. I dont think its a great idea trying
to wrap up the turbo though, dont they have trouble with heat anyway? Id settle for a well ducted intercooler and a small vent ducted over the
turbo, plus louvres to let the heat out at the back
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 8/8/05 at 06:44 PM |
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you can get this stuff from industrial suppliers, but unfortunately I don't know which ones!
John Beardmore mentions it on his website as he used it on his sprint car (he comes on here occasionally as "JB" so could be worth
enquiring............
in fact, I've just emailed and u2u'd him!
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 07:00 AM |
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Is that engine brace a standard piece of kit ? I think I may fit a brace of some sort to my engine as it moves around a lot when the turbo kicks in on
mine, even when starting it rocks a lot.
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 08:04 AM |
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Jeffers
The engine brace is as it came out of the Thema and fits in with a small chassis mod. It has proved essential as it prevents vertually any movement
of the engine on the mounts but will take up high frequency vibration and with the engine being an extreemly tight fit I have been able to reduce
clearances down to mms in places. The engine has ballance shafts to counteract the major rotating assemblies inherrent vibration signatures so it
should, I hope, be a smoth engine all round!
Your installation looks useful, what power and torque will the Nissan produce? And where did you get the exhaust set up from is it a stock DAX
thing?
Nick
[Edited on 9/8/05 by Nick Davison]
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 9/8/05 at 08:17 AM |
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JoelP
Yes I agree and am not going to lag the cast bits or the turbo. The hot, area by the nature of a turbo installation, has engine inlet pipes etc in
close proximity to the hot components (sometimes red hot when being pushed) this is one of the primary challenges at the moment.
I have fitted an ally heat shield over the manifold to try to limit the amount of heat transfer to the bonnet and to contain the air flow to a hot air
area. Cooling air is supplied by a false side AKA the DAX BEC, that is more or less open at the front and back but is ducted through the inner wall
onto the hot area and then exhausted through the rear of the false side above the silencer.
Cooling should be good while moving but I have concerns about it when stationary or in traffic. Several experiments are going ahead at the moment one
of them being lagging etc.
Nick
[Edited on 9/8/05 by Nick Davison]
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 11/8/05 at 02:04 PM |
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Ive been looking where I can fit a brace on mine and I think its going to be tight wherever I put it.
Power in standard form is about 170BHP with similar torque figure, there are lots of cheap parts around to increase this to silly numbers. As for the
exhaust, after finding out what DAX wanted for just the side can (over £400 excluding VAT !) I decided to make my own from the turbo back, plus I
wanted something meaty looking like the SBD ones. The manifold is a Chinese sourced thing, lots of them on ebay, they cost around £120 poilished
stainless steel, its a nice feature in the engine bay. I will have mesh vents directly above the turbo in the bonnet, in the normal Rush style, so it
will hopefully glint in sunlight and look purposeful !
James
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 11/8/05 at 02:32 PM |
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I'm looking at about £375 ish for a complete set, turbine outlet silencer and tailpipe all custom made. Luego wated £600+ which frightend me a
bit!
My power stats are simillar, 165bhp and 200lbs of torque. This can be changed by fitting a 16v inlet manifold and ECU to give a higher bhp but also
will give a chipping facility to change the mapping of the turbo etc. Without engine mods 16vs can be adjusted/chipped to about 250bhp and 280lbs.
I think the power as it is should be enough, it is nearly the same as the 2.8i capris where the axle came from. So with half the weight and slightly
higher gearing with the Fiat box the torque, bhp and long gearing should be ample to take the tread off the tyres and my well past 100mph.
Nick
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NS Dev
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| posted on 11/8/05 at 02:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jeffers_S13
Ive been looking where I can fit a brace on mine and I think its going to be tight wherever I put it.
Power in standard form is about 170BHP with similar torque figure, there are lots of cheap parts around to increase this to silly numbers. As for the
exhaust, after finding out what DAX wanted for just the side can (over £400 excluding VAT !) I decided to make my own from the turbo back, plus I
wanted something meaty looking like the SBD ones. The manifold is a Chinese sourced thing, lots of them on ebay, they cost around £120 poilished
stainless steel, its a nice feature in the engine bay. I will have mesh vents directly above the turbo in the bonnet, in the normal Rush style, so it
will hopefully glint in sunlight and look purposeful !
James
Did you make your can yourself? If so, where sis you get the ends from? I was going to make a can but I can't seem to source the radiused end
caps.
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 11/8/05 at 03:56 PM |
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@ NS Dev : LMAO ! ! I had this exact same problem ! you'll have to guess !
Think about what they look like in a general sense, they come in various sizes depending on where you eat...  mine are approx. 6.75" diameter.
I had the stainless steel rolled to suit the circumference with an overlapping seam on the outside and the perf tube came from milner offroad.
Everyone laughs when I tell them what they are, but I HAD to have radiused ends as I dont like the flat ends that are easy to obtain.
A pic here, have a few more with the bends welded on but they arent in the online album.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jeffers_s13200sx/detail?.dir=416f&.dnm=eef8.jpg
James
[Edited on 11/8/05 by Jeffers_S13]
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 11/8/05 at 04:06 PM |
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I'm looking at about £375 ish for a complete set, turbine outlet silencer and tailpipe all custom made. Luego wated £600+ which frightend me a
bit!
My power stats are simillar, 165bhp and 200lbs of torque. This can be changed by fitting a 16v inlet manifold and ECU to give a higher bhp but also
will give a chipping facility to change the mapping of the turbo etc. Without engine mods 16vs can be adjusted/chipped to about 250bhp and 280lbs.
I think the power as it is should be enough, it is nearly the same as the 2.8i capris where the axle came from. So with half the weight and slightly
higher gearing with the Fiat box the torque, bhp and long gearing should be ample to take the tread off the tyres and my well past 100mph.
Nick
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 08:31 AM |
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James
Do you have any drawings or sketches available. There are obviously loads of ways to make one but drawing on the experiences of someone who has got
it right will probably save quit a few mistakes.
With the cost of having a system made I thought I should have a go at doing one myself.
The main area I am unclear about is how did you connect the perforated pipe to the two solid pipes at either end of the silencer, is there an overlap
connection in the middle of the silencer so, once the rivets in the bowls are removed, the two halves can be pulled apart?
Nick
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 09:12 AM |
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The solid bends were first welded directly to the balti dishes, very hard as the dishes are very thin in comparison. Then I cut the holes through the
balti dishes with a jangle grinder and a file. Then weld the perf tube to one of them as squarley as possible. Then clamp the outer wrapper onto
that dish with a giant 'custom' jubilee clip ! LOL ! with the perf tube centrally positioned, weld all around the wrapper to the balti
dish at one end. At the mo its tacked along the wrapper seam to about 2/3rds along so the other end is just flexible enough to squeeze the other dish
in. I will probably use rivets on the back 1/3rd of the seam and around the dish so I can dismantle it for re-packing. The perf tube is held off the
wrapper at the back by three posts just tacked on so there is a small gap between the end of the perf and the start of the rear solid bend. I can do
some sketches if you want.
edit:I also have lots of pics, if you let me know what in particular you want to see I can send you them
James
[Edited on 12/8/05 by Jeffers_S13]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 09:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jeffers_S13
@ NS Dev : LMAO ! ! I had this exact same problem ! you'll have to guess !
Think about what they look like in a general sense, they come in various sizes depending on where you eat... mine are approx. 6.75" diameter.
I had the stainless steel rolled to suit the circumference with an overlapping seam on the outside and the perf tube came from milner offroad.
Everyone laughs when I tell them what they are, but I HAD to have radiused ends as I dont like the flat ends that are easy to obtain.
A pic here, have a few more with the bends welded on but they arent in the online album.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jeffers_s13200sx/detail?.dir=416f&.dnm=eef8.jpg
James
[Edited on 11/8/05 by Jeffers_S13]
I couldn't be cheeky and enquire as to the source of the bowls could I?
I have used a stainless dog bowl as a catch bowl on a fuel cell on a rally car before!!!
What sort of rim do the bowls have round the top? or have you cut the rim off?
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 09:26 AM |
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Took me ages to track a decent design down, I had to have about 7" diameter and a parallel section a the rim.
The rim had a tiny return on it which I ground off so its a nice smooth parallel section for about 3/4". I also (obviously) ground the handles
off, they are just spot welded on anyway.
Trying to explain to girls that work in cookware stores what parallel top edge meant was a challenge and a half...
Anyway, heres where I got mine :
http://www.cookware-uk.co.uk/BrowseCategories.php?nm=Balti-Dishes&cid=100
You have to be careful with some cheap ones, like from 'poundland' as I *think* they are actually tin, they also dont have parallel sides
at the rim.
James
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 10:05 AM |
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cheers, thanks for that. They are very tricky to track down aren't they!!
Need a big silencer for the Vauxhall XE!!!
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Nick Davison
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 11:12 AM |
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James
Looks like you have started something here for all the builders looking for dig silencers.
I have found a source for stainless bends and 6" tube near here, with your bowl and perf pipe source I am now half way to having an exhaust
system!
Last question for now what did you use for packing inside?
Nick
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ned
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 11:51 AM |
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good info here, i think someone should write a 'how to' with some piccies and diagrams!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 12:14 PM |
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I was hoping to use stainless flue pipe for the outer casing (304 stainless 24 gauge) but it has to be either 6" or 7", and the bowls are
either 6" or 6.75"..........so lets just hope 6" is big enough!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 12:15 PM |
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packing wise, the proper stuff is available from Milner offroad, but a cheap alternative is rockwool, doesn't last long but comes in big bags!!!
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Jeffers_S13
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| posted on 12/8/05 at 12:23 PM |
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I got all my thin bends and perf tube from Milner, after spending weeks searching for a supplier I found them by accident whilst looking for something
else !
The thicker bends just after my turbo were sourced through someone my Dad buys steel from for work.
This really is for big exhausts only, mine is notionally 3" straight through. The balti dishes unfortunately/fortunatley (on your perspective)
have flat bottoms. On the 6.75" ones I bought the flat area is just over 3" but the weld just about fills that extra ring of flat area so
it looks like a perfect dome. I expect the smaller diameter ones witll have a smaller flat section, you'll have to ask the girl at the shop to
measure it before you buy if you want to know ! she was very helpful and patient with me when I was asking lots of daft questions.
As for the packing, I've bought a roll of roof insulation ! Ive heard talk of it being used so thought Id give it a go, however having got to
the stage where Im at now and having run the car with the can empty and a big jubilee clip holding the rear cap on, it is actually very quiet. Im
probably going to go to the first SVA with no packing to see what happens, if the noise level is one of the fail points then I'll see about
putting wadding in. I dont really want anymore weight in the can as its already quite heavy (its 32" long) a lot of weight is now hanging off
the four top manifold headers (turbo aswell remember) and they are fairly well know for cracking, I have looked at making a brace to help support the
weight of the turbo but havent made one yet. I'll put a couple more pics up on my mini album as linked to in one of my previous replies above.
If anyone wants anymore pics of particular areas let me know and I can take them, but its as I described before really.
James
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