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Author: Subject: My Front End Bones Sorted...
Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:29 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry for being stupid, but where does the binding come in? Rescued attachment Upper Bone Avoneer2.jpg
Rescued attachment Upper Bone Avoneer2.jpg






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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:34 PM Reply With Quote
There is a hidden spout behind the cable tie......all hell lets loose when it happens too





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:36 PM Reply With Quote
Fumes.....i blame the fumes!





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:42 PM Reply With Quote
..and the E numbers in smarties....





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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:46 PM Reply With Quote
The rod ends can be adjusted in and out, but only if they are adjusted by the exact same number of turns (and that will only adjust camber).
If you screw, say, the front one out and screw the rear one in an uneven number of turns (in an attempt to gain more positive castor), the distance between the rod ends will increase. As the rod ends are a precision item, there isn't the amount of give in them to absorb the growth in the distance between them. If you could even physically force the (adjusted) rod ends back into their respective brackets, the compression within the wishbone will act like a spring, forcing side loads on the ferules, the rod ends and the brackets. That will cause the rod ends to bind somewhat and will lead to premature wear and possibly failure. That's if the wishbone doesn't give way first (if the car's driven like that).




Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!



surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here, I am sure that less than precise initial installation (shimming in )will give worse results

[Edited on 5/12/05 by Mark Allanson]





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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:47 PM Reply With Quote
The rod ends can be adjusted in and out, but only if they are adjusted by the exact same number of turns (and that will only adjust camber).
If you screw, say, the front one out and screw the rear one in an uneven number of turns (in an attempt to gain more positive castor), the distance between the rod ends will increase. As the rod ends are a precision item, there isn't the amount of give in them to absorb the growth in the distance between them. If you could even physically force the (adjusted) rod ends back into their respective brackets, the compression within the wishbone will act like a spring, forcing side loads on the ferules, the rod ends and the brackets. That will cause the rod ends to bind somewhat and will lead to premature wear and possibly failure. That's if the wishbone doesn't give way first (if the car's driven like that).





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:49 PM Reply With Quote
wierd, I answered Rorty's post, and now its one below mine, read rorty's first then mine and it should make sense





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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:52 PM Reply With Quote
Gulvalish





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:56 PM Reply With Quote
Order posts wrong getting keep

posts order deleting paste cut and keep doing





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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:57 PM Reply With Quote
Did you get the last golden ticket then





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 10:59 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here, I am sure that less than precise initial installation (shimming in )will give worse results

[Edited on 5/12/05 by Mark Allanson]

Tenths will cause problems, but shims are measured in thousandths and will get the spacing correct. The wishbone (disconnected from the upright) should fall under it's own weight if the spacing is correct. If it doesn't, you'll be replacing the rod ends regularly. $$$$$





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:00 PM Reply With Quote
did that read ticket or rivet?





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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:03 PM Reply With Quote
Rorty,
exactly my point, who in their garage is going to be able to shim to thou's correctly, especially after torquing up?





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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:07 PM Reply With Quote
The rod ends are the wrong way round anyway.





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Rorty,
exactly my point, who in their garage is going to be able to shim to thou's correctly, especially after torquing up?

Anyone with a box of shims!





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:11 PM Reply With Quote
As it happens i happened to have some from the "yellow" team all in a nice wee box and in lots of different guages.......thanx EJ





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Triton
The rod ends are the wrong way round anyway.

I was waiting for that to come up. The 1/2" rod ends most people use are over sized for the application and if people are using high spec joints, will be perfectly OK used horizontally.





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Rorty,
exactly my point, who in their garage is going to be able to shim to thou's correctly, especially after torquing up?

Anyone with a box of shims!


To tenth of mm fine, but not to thou's, thats just unrealistic. 0.001mm is VERY small, nearly a micron.





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MikeRJ

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
quote:
Originally posted by Triton
The rod ends are the wrong way round anyway.

I was waiting for that to come up. The 1/2" rod ends most people use are over sized for the application and if people are using high spec joints, will be perfectly OK used horizontally.


Would you say that 1/2" rod ends are an appropriate size for trailing arms as well?

[Edited on 5/12/05 by MikeRJ]

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Triton

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:26 PM Reply With Quote
Over square needed for trailing arms...ie:
1/2 UNF thread with 3/8UNF i/d spherical bearing.





My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.

www.tritonraceseats.com

www.hairyhedgehog.com

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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
Rorty,
exactly my point, who in their garage is going to be able to shim to thou's correctly, especially after torquing up?

Anyone with a box of shims!


To tenth of mm fine, but not to thou's, thats just unrealistic. 0.001mm is VERY small, nearly a micron.

Thousandths of an inch not metric. Inch shim stock is far more common than metric stuff.





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:34 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here, I am sure that less than precise initial installation (shimming in )will give worse results

[Edited on 5/12/05 by Mark Allanson]

Tenths will cause problems, but shims are measured in thousandths and will get the spacing correct. The wishbone (disconnected from the upright) should fall under it's own weight if the spacing is correct. If it doesn't, you'll be replacing the rod ends regularly. $$$$$




We started off in metric, thats why i couldn't understand why you thought a thou was easily attainable



[Edited on 5/12/05 by Rorty]





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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Would you say that 1/2" rod ends are an appropriate size for trailing arms as well?

[Edited on 5/12/05 by MikeRJ]

That would be like saying my shoes would fit you.
There are so many variables such as brand, material, construction, method of mounting, weight of car, length of trailing arm, horse power etc. etc.
Without knowing what the car is, I would say not. It seems light for any trailing arm.
If you want to email me with more details, I'll give it some thought.





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Rorty

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:46 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here, I am sure that less than precise initial installation (shimming in )will give worse results

[Edited on 5/12/05 by Mark Allanson]

Tenths will cause problems, but shims are measured in thousandths and will get the spacing correct. The wishbone (disconnected from the upright) should fall under it's own weight if the spacing is correct. If it doesn't, you'll be replacing the rod ends regularly. $$$$$




We started off in metric, thats why i couldn't understand why you thought a thou was easily attainable



[Edited on 5/12/05 by Rorty]

Sorry for the confusion, but I think you started it .
Anything ending in "ths" (tenths, thousandths) is usally imperial, numbers less than a whole millimeter are usually expressed by moving the decimal point. Grandma...eggs?
Anyway, glad it's sorted out.





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Mark Allanson

posted on 5/12/05 at 11:52 PM Reply With Quote
"surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here,"

"surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here,"

"surely we are talking less than tenths of mm here,"

It quite a long time since imperial was used in machine shops, and even when it was, a 'tenth' always refered to a tenth of a thou (inch) and only refered to when precission grinding.





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