Krismc
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 08:46 PM |
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Hydraulic Clutch Kit, type 9 box??
 Starting to relise how people give up building these kits, i just dont know
how to continue
Having not much knowledge of gearbox/clutches or engines for that matter etc, im trying to fit this hydraulic clutch kit from burton power, as my
release arm wont fit down my tunnel.
Basically its kit including some bleed hoses, amounting plate, 30mm spacer, a hydraulic nose and release bearing- fitted together in the order,
althought im very unsure how to decide how thick the spacer should be as its labeled up - saying 'machine to suit' any help is
appriciated, all the best kris!
ive included pics and a diagram of how i think it goes, please feel free to correct me! if all else fails is it worth trying to let a company sort
this out for me or would it be too expensive??
[Edited on 7/5/06 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 08:48 PM |
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quote:
Starting to relise how people give up building these kits, i just dont know how to continue
Dont give up. theres plenty of people to help. Just keep working at it and youl get through!!!!
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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jimmyjoebob
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 08:53 PM |
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Where abouts are you? Someone on here may be nearby to offer advice or give a hand.
If at first you don't succeed, hide all evidence you ever tried!
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Krismc
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 08:57 PM |
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Well im in newcastle (gateshead) and the kettles always on
And the reason i say about not wanting to do it, because i have searched and im finding a few things missing, like the alternator bracket needs
modifiying, i need a belt?? a custom pully bracket, modify the water rail, chop the bell housing to bits for starter etc! looks like i need to someone
to weld for me to make the brackets!
And i wont have use of a garage much longer ive only 8 weeks left... if it aint finished i may have to sell! 
ps just trying to resize that picture now
[Edited on 7/5/06 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 09:07 PM |
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quote:
Yes Dont give up, you have probably found the old problem of desire outweighing ability/capability
yea cheers mate, Thats just what i was thinking, i was going to go the bike route but thought that a common engine would be simple like the zetec how
wrong i was!
not my field cars im affraid, owned sum nice ones, but the first time ive owned a garage to mess around with them was 3 months ago- so id say im not
quite pro
[Edited on 7/5/06 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 09:08 PM |
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well here is that drawing>>>
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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andyb64
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 09:51 PM |
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Have you got the release bearing to go with the release mechanism, I only ask because you don't show it in your drawing ?.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 7/5/06 at 10:49 PM |
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Right,
First you need the release bearing.
1) Then measure your bellhousing thickness from engine block flange to the machined face that bolts to the gearbox, and write it down (measure
accurately i.e. to nearest mm at the very worst!)
2) Then assemble your complete clutch to the flywheel and tighten it up etc so it's ready to go, put a straight edge across the centre of the
diaphragm spring where the release bearing presses, and measure the gap between this and the engine block/bellhousing mounting face (obviously do all
this without the bellhousing/gearbox on!) and write down that measurement too.
3) Then bolt the entire kit you got from burtons, plus the release bearing, onto the front of your gearbox, without the bellhousing on, and measure
the distance from the front face of the gearbox (where the bellhousing bolts to) to the "clutch contacting" face of the release bearing,
with it in its fully retracted position, and write that down as well.
Then subtract the measurements obtained in stages 2 and 3 above from the measurement in stage 1. You want the resultant number to be enough to allow
for clutch wear and a tad of clearance, I went for approximately 5mm.
If it is significantly less than 5mm, you need to get some material faced off the 30mm spacer, but to be honest I'm sure my homemade spacer
ended up around 30mm anyway.
hope this helps
Nat
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Krismc
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| posted on 8/5/06 at 04:10 PM |
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>>>>erm right i think ive got the idea!!
cheers
and ive got my release bearing in the right place on drawing havent i or is it bigger and slots over the nose. i cant remember!
[Edited on 8/5/06 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/5/06 at 06:03 PM |
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For the fork to be in the tunnel your engine must be sitting very far back.
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Krismc
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| posted on 8/5/06 at 08:51 PM |
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my engine is sitting the only place it will go i have 1/2inch of forward and backward movement in the engine/gearbox!!!
why?? whats wrong with the placement!
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 8/5/06 at 11:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
>>>>erm right i think ive got the idea!!
cheers
and ive got my release bearing in the right place on drawing havent i or is it bigger and slots over the nose. i cant remember!
[Edited on 8/5/06 by Krismc]
Yep, the release bearing goes on the moving bit, if you see what I mean! It goes on the only bit it will fit onto to be honest, just push it on and it
will stop in the right place, can't really go anywhere else, don't worry!
My instructions will make more sense if you print em off and take em to where all the bits are and do it step by step.
Nowt wrong with your engine position by the way, plenty on here with the same issues, so don't worry.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 12:00 AM |
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PS good choice of kit by the way, not that I'm building one but if I was starting now I would be!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Krismc
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 02:47 PM |
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starting to feel a bit happier with speaking to mark @ mac about the alternator bracket- cheers them pics are on the way!!
quote:
Yep, the release bearing goes on the moving bit, if you see what I mean! It goes on the only bit it will fit onto to be honest, just push it on and it
will stop in the right place, can't really go anywhere else, don't worry!
My instructions will make more sense if you print em off and take em to where all the bits are and do it step by step.
Nowt wrong with your engine position by the way, plenty on here with the same issues, so don't worry.
ive already printed them of im going to have a go wed night, and i only asked about the release bearing because i didnt have it to hand, i thought it
went over the nose- thanks again
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 03:11 PM |
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no probs, make sure you print off your little sketch and draw the measurements onto it, it will all make much more sense then.
With jobs like this just take your time and measure everything carefully and do a little sketch, then it will all make much more sense and in reality
be quite easy.
best of luck!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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chockymonster
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| posted on 9/5/06 at 06:04 PM |
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And don't forget to measure twice 
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Krismc
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| posted on 10/5/06 at 06:27 PM |
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....yea im the type who measures once and cuts twice!
cheers for you help ill try that on fri night, never had a night of from work yet
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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