darrens
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 07:13 PM |
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Rover V8 Oil
Hello,
This has prob been talked about before, I've done a quick search but can't find owt.
Can ayone recommend a good oil for the Rover V8, I know these can suffer from low oil pressure when hot and at tickover.
Don't want to have one eye on the oil pressure as that would mean both eyes are off the road, other eye is looking at fuel gauge!!
Cheers
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caber
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 07:44 PM |
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Ddepends a lot on age and mileage of engine. An old one, 1970s and 80s will need a thicker oil and do not like the modern stuff. 1990s are quite
happy on the newer thinner oils with high tech properties. If you have a "new" rebuilt engine treat as a new car engine possibly use
running in oil.
These engines do have a habit of leaking oil, the valley gasket is a prime candidate particularly the rubber seals at the end also the front cover has
some long bolts that go through the cover to the block and into the oil ways, these need a special loctite to seal them up. This habit is aggravated
on older engines by using thinner oil.
Best of luck!
Caber
( with very leaky Range Rover V8!)
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 08:38 PM |
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Strangely on the 4 pot Rover 820 T16 engine they leak less oil from the head gasket area with thinner grade oils.
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andyharding
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 08:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Strangely on the 4 pot Rover 820 T16 engine they leak less oil from the head gasket area with thinner grade oils.
No doubt due to lower oil pressure.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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wilkingj
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 09:11 PM |
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I use straight 20/50 in mine. It doesnt like 10/40 grade.
I have a fully recon'd engine, ground crank, rebore new pistons, ALL new bearings Cam, and followers, new oil pump etc etc. 50psi when cold, and
15-20 psi on tickover when hot.
I used duckhams to run in, and am now using some 20/50 from my local motor factors, which seems to have better characteristics over the Duckhams.
Rover V8's prefer a good volume of oil flow rather than lots of pressure.
Again, pressure drops when hot.
I am also thinking of some bonnet vents and exhaust wrap, as the temperature rises when in slow traffic in town. and is fine on the open road. Mind
you its been damn HOT lately!
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Agriv8
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 09:37 PM |
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using 20/50 i think ( the red one ) from halfrauds mine seems to like it.
I have found that the later composite vally gasget work better than the tin ones.
Re the cooling still wotking on that exhaust wrap helps hugely but i need more vents out
regards
agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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RWDKurt
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| posted on 12/7/06 at 10:22 PM |
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I use Valvoline Racing 20/50 in mine. It was recommended by my engine builder and up to now it's been great. I have an occasional problem with a
noisy lifter which is probably nothing to do with the oil itself.
As already stated it's better not to use oils with a 40 grade when hot. I may try Millers CSS next time - they do a 10/60.
Kurt
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mark chandler
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 12:03 PM |
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I,ve run these for years, it depends on the front cover.
If you have the old oil pump (distributor driven unless a really late 3.9) you want something like castrol GTX or its equivilent. Because these sludge
up quickly I used a quality diesel oil, millers semi sync from memory.
Later engines with a much better oil pump are good on later synthetic oils, Landrover recommend 10/40 sync in P38 4.0's and 4.6's.
Regards Mark
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02GF74
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 01:09 PM |
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these are 50s technology. don't waste money on fancy/£££ synthetics etc: plain old 20/50 but replace more frequently, 3k to 5 k. cheaper and
run best on those.
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darrens
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| posted on 13/7/06 at 04:24 PM |
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cheers for advice
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