coozer
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 posted on 13/1/07 at 01:41 PM |
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Zetec Installation Costs
Looking round our excellent resource here I can't help but feel some people are encountering big costs installing a zetec in their cars.
I did a lot of costing when I was choosing an engine and the zetec was bar far the cheapest option. The parts to convert to rwd where found easily and
very cheap!
I would like to know what everyone thinks on this subject.
Less than £500 for me.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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DIY Si
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 01:51 PM |
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I think the main cost is getting the engine itself running, as I believe the standard inlet stuff to be to big. Otherwise, it shouldn't be too
much. Just need to get the correct/matching flywheel and starter.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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zzr1100rick2
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 01:52 PM |
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one arm and a leg 
but yes around the £500 for engine g/box megasquirt etc
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phoenix70
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 01:55 PM |
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so does anyone have a definative guide to fiting a zetec to and seven?
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trogdor
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 01:59 PM |
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am hoping to do it for much less than that,
£80 for 1800 XR3i zetec,
£2.20 for whole escort car loom and ford ecu
~£40 for getting modified clutch plate
£?? for engine mounts
£35 for uprated gearbox mounts
As you can prob tell, i am hoping to run the zetec on the standard loom and ecu, its an old 1992 engine and loom and am hoping i can get that
sorted
Luckily for me the engine bolts straight up to my saab gearbox and hopefully the starter will too. (altough that is abit of an unknown) ALso the
standard inlet stuff can be retained as it will fit under my bonnet.
oh yeah £15 for high pressure fuel pump
so am hoping its only gonna cost around £250 £300 for it all though it will prob be more!!
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coozer
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 02:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by trogdor
am hoping to do it for much less than that,
~£40 for getting modified clutch plate
____________________________________
It only cost me £26 for a Mondeo clutch that bolted straight on and works no problem.
As you can prob tell, i am hoping to run the zetec on the standard loom and ecu, its an old 1992 engine and loom and am hoping i can get that
sorted
____________________________________
The standard ecu may casue some problems as it controls lots of other things too. The immobiliser, door locks and windows if I'm not mistake and
if they are not present the ecu will go on strike!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 03:36 PM |
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Two arms, Two legs, and my sole sold to the boss aswell  
Doesnt need to be that dear.
Can be done for £500 and less with out the exhaust but its easy to get carried away and get lots of nice fabricated bits ect.
The exhaust I think is one of the dearer parts for the conversion.
Every body installs them in a differant way so there can never be a definative answer. If you have the tools and can use them then the cost will be
cheaper and your input longer
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 03:59 PM |
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This all makes me happier about staying with my crossflow!
(but I do understand that it would be a better engine when finally installed)
David
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andybod
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 06:56 PM |
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engine £100
escort sump £25
clutch £75
alt brackets £80
water pump £30
service items
inc timing belt £35
manifold £75
dellortos £325
weber ecu s.h £300
exhaust £350
£1395
bugger should have gone bec
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TangoMan
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 07:18 PM |
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I think I have got all the bits I need now and mine will stand me around £1000.
This will include
2.0 Zetec with
Lightweight flywheel and pinto clutch
Innovate LC1 Wideband Sensor
Megasquirt
GSXR750 TB's
Silicon Hoses
Made my own manifolds (although bought the flanges, bends and tube)
CVH sump, modified for ground clearance.
New cambelt and service items
All hose, clips, connectors etc.
It's more than I expected it to cost but I have got all the right bits as I intend to sort the head and cams next winter
It could be done a lot cheaper with carbs or standard injection and cast exhaust manifold.
Summer's here!!!!
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 07:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by trogdor
Luckily for me the engine bolts straight up to my saab gearbox
That's interesting, in fact it's amazing. Did Saab have any Ford input back when they were making RWD cars?
Is the box from an older 900?
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andybod
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 07:53 PM |
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didn't the saab 96 use the ford v4
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DIY Si
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 08:01 PM |
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I think so, as IIRC that's what he pulled out to fit the zetec.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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Mansfield
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 08:37 PM |
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My nearly new Westfield CVH exhaust manifold cost me £75. Apparently these can be made to fit a Zetec due to similar port spacing and some holes
matching up. Bit of work required but a big saving on new.
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Peteff
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 08:48 PM |
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I got two 1.8 XR2i engines for £27. I bought one on ebay and when I got there he had two and wanted the garage cleared as he was flitting.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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bob
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| posted on 14/1/07 at 12:16 AM |
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This probaly the best and longest thread on the zetec insatls,plenty of variation and parts info.
zetec guide link
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trogdor
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| posted on 16/1/07 at 12:21 PM |
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yep saab used a ford v4 engine, not the one fitted to transits etc but a german one, they look very similar but very few parts will interchange, its
also better apparently but i wanted to change it as it costs loads to uprate
the zetec will bolt on using four bolts on the bellhousing., however there are probs with the clutch as the spline pattern is different from saab to
zetech so am abit unsure how to get the zetec clutch on the gearbox!
just thought i would add, saab have never made a RWD car, the 96 has a transaxle type of gearbox complete with freewheel and column shift!
[Edited on 16/1/07 by trogdor]
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DIY Si
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| posted on 17/1/07 at 12:00 AM |
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The clutch plate needs to match the gearbox, and if poss use one that matches the flywheel. Other option is to use the matching plate, and get a
flywheel made, or re-drill one to suit the crank.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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trogdor
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| posted on 17/1/07 at 09:40 AM |
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hmmmm this is going to be more difficult than i thought, the saab clutch will fit the gearbox, but prob not the flywheel, how can you tell if they are
compatable? the front cover of the clutch from the V4 won't bolt up to the zetec flywheel, though i could get it modified so it could.
Is annoying as the saab and zetec flywheels are very similar, only difference is the way they are bolted to the crank!
am not sure where to go with this, ideally spending as little money as poss!
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 17/1/07 at 11:11 AM |
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You could try the Zetec clutch cover with a Saab friction plate.
I had a 2.0l Zetec flywheel lightened, balanced and machined by Scholar to take a Pinto clutch for about £100 IIRC.
So there should be no reason the same flywheel should not be machined to take the Saab clutch although you will need to find a spigot bearing to fit
both the gearbox shaft and the Zetec but that shouldn't be too much of a problem as it is likely that the one used with a Type 9 box will
fit.
[Edited on 17/1/07 by Schrodinger]
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jamesg20
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| posted on 18/1/07 at 08:24 PM |
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You do need to allow for a modified sump when running the zetec inline. None of the standard ford sumps are up to it. If you don't get the sump
baffled properly you won't last very long..
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trogdor
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| posted on 19/1/07 at 09:10 AM |
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well i have sorted my friction plate prob, have found a company who can modify the zetec clutch to fit the saab input shaft
now my prob is the clutch release bearing, need to get it modified to have a bearing with a rounded face not a flat one like the 96's
i have heard about the sumps before, but i have also read that you can get away with a 1800 sump which is what i have so i will see how long it lasts!
i am not going to ragging this car around a track so i think it will be ok
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Memphis Twin
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| posted on 20/1/07 at 11:09 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by trogdor
yep saab used a ford v4 engine, not the one fitted to transits etc but a german one, they look very similar but very few parts will interchange, its
also better apparently but i wanted to change it as it costs loads to uprate
the zetec will bolt on using four bolts on the bellhousing., however there are probs with the clutch as the spline pattern is different from saab to
zetech so am abit unsure how to get the zetec clutch on the gearbox!
just thought i would add, saab have never made a RWD car, the 96 has a transaxle type of gearbox complete with freewheel and column shift!
[Edited on 16/1/07 by trogdor]
Are you sure theZetec will bolt onto the Saab gearbox? The V4 was basically 2/3 of the Cologne V6, but I thought that this had a different bellhousing
bolt pattern.
I have had several 96s in my time (learnt to drive and took test in one) but I never knew the Ford inline engines would bolt on. Problem is the
gearbox is very weak, and struggles with the V4's 65bhp so I don't know how it will cope with 150+.
I once had the hair-brained idea of converting my 96 to RWD using a XFlow and escort axle - never came to anything but I'd still like to do it
one day
Cheers Chris.
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trogdor
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| posted on 22/1/07 at 09:17 AM |
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yep the zetec will fit, i have had the v4 out and have offered it up, the top two bolts dont line up with the bellhousing, but the next 4 holes do and
since there are only 4 bolts holding it on this should be ok, the engine bay does need modding tho, the valence and strut brace need to modified
yeah alot of people are telling me that the gearbox is weak and will fail but then there are alot of people who say its not as bad as all that, rally
saabs used to have nearly 200bhp and they weren't signifcantly different!
my plan is just be gentle with the car, ie don't drop the clutch at 4000 rpm! see how long it lasts and get a decent rebuild and see if that
lasts ok if not will have to fit another transaxle, audi or similar but that is way off in the distance!
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