paulmw
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:10 PM |
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Cant get them off
How do I remove the prop shafts from the diff. I pressume you undo the 6 or so bolts with the star shaped head.
I have tried WD40 and also when I try to turn the bolt anti clockwise the diff spins
Any ideas
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worX
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:18 PM |
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I think that it is the driveshafts you are referring to Paul, they should just undo with the correct headed tool.
If you don't have any of the correct star shaped tools - I have a set that I could lend you...
If you need to brace the shaft to stop spinning you can do so easily with a piece of flat steel with two holes drilled in to accept two bolt heads.
The above is mostly just guess work however as I used push in driveshafts, and have never done the lobro ones.
cheers,
Steve
[Edited on 11/6/07 by worX]
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JoelP
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:20 PM |
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i assume you mean the drive shafts/half shafts? Most people get the first few off with an air impact wrench, til the torx bit breaks, then use a
grinder to cut the rest off. Its a tricky one, but grinder isnt as hard as it sounds, much quicker than trying to undo them. Replace with capheads. 
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dern
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:25 PM |
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If you mean the driveshafts then yes, you undo the 6 star bolts. From memory the prop is held on by 4 bolts.
If the diff is on the car then you can lock the driveshafts by either lowering the wheels to the ground, putting the handbrake on or putting the car
in gear. If it isn't then get a bit of steel tube/angle iron/whatever a foot or so long and drill holes to suit the prop flang and bolt it to
the flange. Place it all on the floor and stand on the diff and undo the bolts... the bit of steel will stop it all going round. Alternatively you
could use an impact driver or an air impact driver.
In all cases though I'd personally use plusgas rather than wd40 as it's much better and also I'd dig about in the socket hole with a
small nail to remove all the crud so the star socket can get fully home and then tap in the socket in with a hammer to reduce the chances of breaking
the socket or rounding off the inside of the bolt.
If it all goes wrong and you either can't get them off, round the inside of the nut off or whatever then you can always carefully grind off the
head with an angle grinder, slide the cv joint over the remaining studs and then soak the stud in plusgas for a bit if they don't just twist out
and remove with molegrips.
Hope this helps and I haven't got the wrong end of the stick.
Regards,
Mark
Edited to add: nuts, too slow... should have kept it brief 
[Edited on 11/6/07 by dern]
R1 (2003 FI) powered Locost in progress
Fireblade/Impreza
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:26 PM |
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Mine came undone a piece of cake with a decent torx bit and a breaker bar. Clean the torx hole then tap the bit home with a light/medium hammer. Fit
extension & breaker bar then lever against bar fitted across a couple of studs and the ground. JD.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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paulmw
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:33 PM |
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Sorry I meant drive shfts. I have the correct headed tool but just seemed to be getting nowhere.
Also even if I lock off the prop flange the diff still spins. Its an LSD does this matter
I'll try your suggestions and if all else fails break out the grinder
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worX
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 04:46 PM |
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You could try the way I suggested and (very easily) make a brace using piece of steel(obviously it's only easy if you have some lying around)
you drill one hole in the end that goes over one bolt head, and then another hole where the next one would be, and insert the torx tool in that hole
and then force them against each other, it's a bit tricky to describe. but it is quite easy to do...
Steve
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ERP
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| posted on 11/6/07 at 07:06 PM |
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Mine were off the car when I undid them, and they were a pig. In the end it didn't require that much torque after all the penetrating oil, but I
couldn't stop the shaft rotating.
What worked for me was putting the Wheel bearings on the shafts and used a bar between the wheel studs to stop it rotating.
[Edited on 12/6/07 by ERP]
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paulmw
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 09:08 AM |
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Thanks to Bobc who came around last night with his impact wrench. Took about 2 mins to remove them all. One casualty was the torx bit which is
goosed.
Many thanks Bob, next time your around we'll break out the beers
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Bob C
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 09:56 AM |
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Don't worry paul - you can bend it straight again when you tighten 'em back up.... ;^)
Bob
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James
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 10:23 AM |
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Just grind em!
Takes 5 minutes to do!
You're not going to re-use the crappy rusty bolts are you? In which case carefully grind the heads off and the shaft will just fall apart!
Cheers,
James
EDIT: ruppy changed to the more traditional rusty
[Edited on 12/6/07 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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saigonij
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 10:31 AM |
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as suggested above, tap the torx tool in to the bolt a bit to make sure its seataed 100%. Then i stopped the drive shaft from turning by gripping it
with some mole grips and then standing on the mole grips and the shaft while undoing the bolt. keep the torx tool level and it shoudl all come undone
fine.
I was really worried about mine, but it was a non issue as long as you use the right tool and keep it at the right angle.
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JoelP
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| posted on 12/6/07 at 11:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Replace with capheads.
blond moment there, i mean hexheads.
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