lightspear27
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| posted on 1/7/07 at 03:09 PM |
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Escort axle ... how much power?
Hi,
How much power can a standard non lsd escort/english axle handle?
I am asking this because my zetec powered Ginetta G27 (+/- 165 bhp) has just eaten its second diff in just 12 months.
First one overheated during a trackday ... I don't know if there was enough oil before the trackday but there was evidence of a leak (was the
leak a consequence of the overheating or the overheating a consequence of the leak ???).
During this trackday the diff blocked and caused a few uncontrolled and dangerous skids.
I replaced the diff with a reconditioned one that has only made +/- 1000 miles before giving alarming signs of tiredness.
The second diff was full of oil and started overheating after a few hours of "sporty" driving on twisty roads. The car began to
dangerously brake in right hand corners so I had to let the diff cool down in order to bring the car home safely.
Is the 2 liter zetec too powerfull for the diff?
Do I have to use special oil?
Should I use an oil cooler for the diff (strange for road use)?
Could there be another reason for the diff to overheat?
Can an axle be twisted and overheat because of that?
Other reasons?
Please I need help. I do not want to spend money on a new diff that will die after 3 corners ... and I do not want to crash because of this
problem.
Can anyone help?
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madrallysport
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| posted on 1/7/07 at 03:38 PM |
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I used to rally an escort with a 1600 16valve engine, (168bhp) it had a english axle in it when i built the car, but i run into prolems with it, (kept
braking half shafts) so i changed to a baby atlas set up, it is usually a dear way to go, but i got my hands on a second hand one at really good
money. Hope this helps you in some way.
[Edited on 1/7/07 by madrallysport]
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daviep
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| posted on 1/7/07 at 03:55 PM |
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Is this the same diff which I sold you last August? What type of oil are you currently using ?
Regards Davie
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lightspear27
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| posted on 1/7/07 at 04:00 PM |
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yes it is ...
Have to check what oil it is. Can not check right now.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/7/07 at 06:16 PM |
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MUST use Hypoid oil EP90 or EP90
One trick usd by Escort Hot Rod oval racers was to fit diff cooler just an electric bilge pump to circulate the oil through a cooler.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/7/07 at 09:55 AM |
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Re-reading this I think you may actually have a brake hydraulic problem NOT diff failure --- brake binding due to a fluid lock --- as the fluid gets
hotter the pressure increases causing thre brake to bind up completely.
Cause is usually the pushrods at the master cylinder for that circuit not being able to return fully.
[Edited on 2/7/07 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 2/7/07 by britishtrident]
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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lightspear27
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| posted on 2/7/07 at 04:55 PM |
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Hi,
Why would it happen only in right hand turns?
I can assure you the diff overheats.
The previous broken diff gave a few similar tiredness signs during the trackday and blocked two times in right hand corners too.
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daviep
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| posted on 2/7/07 at 05:44 PM |
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Just typed a big speil and then noticed I wasn't logged in!!!!!!!
I think your going to have to investigate this a bit further because I can't think how a diff could give you the problems you describe.
Here are the steps I would take.
1: Check the oil level and then drain the oil looking for signs the oil has been cooked and looking for debris.
2: Refill oil with correct grade oil(EP 90 or hypoid 90)
3: Jack up both rear wheels and put the car in gear. Rotate one wheel, the other should rotate in the opposite direction with little resistance. Do
this at both wheels in both directions, should feel smooth and free from lumps.
4: Rotate the propshaft by hand, both wheels should rotate in the same direction at the same speed. Again should be smooth and lump free.
If anything doesn't feel right I would remove the brake drums and try again.
A few questions on my mind.
1: What type of failure did the last diff suffer from?
2: Was the axle cleaned thoroughly to remove any debris the last diff left?
3: Does the whole axle get hot or can you see a hot spot on the diff?
Keep us posted with your progress please.
Reagrds Davie
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cs3tcr
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| posted on 3/7/07 at 06:34 AM |
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I'm curious too as to why this is ocurring. I've got an English axle in my car, and dont really want to go through the same problems.
So far all i've run into is a bad pinion seal, and a replacement diff with the wrong flange (stupid me, should have checked before installing in
the car)
ATB,
Rod
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 3/7/07 at 09:21 PM |
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Im running an English axle with my R1 BEC that's got about 160bhp and runs sticky A048 on trackdays and the only problem Ive had in 5 years is a
loose pinion bearing.
For the last couple of years since I fitted a Quaife ATB (and so wanting maximum protection) Ive been using
Millers CRX LS 80w140 BM
which was recomended to me by my uncle who uses it in 60's Mustang race cars that he preps.
[Edited on 3/7/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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DIY Si
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| posted on 3/7/07 at 11:27 PM |
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I think what BT is getting at is roughly this: one of your rear wheels has it's brakes binding lsightly/not fully returning or similar. As you
turn a corner and the diff starts to work, one wheel can now slow significantly/put a lot of force through the diff to keep ot turning at the same
rate. I think it's this force/braking issue that causes the diff to overheat (it's always working flat out in a way it wasn't
designed for) and then go pop.
In what way is the diff giving up? Losing teeth, generally lunched, splines ripped off half shafts?
Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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daviep
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| posted on 9/7/07 at 06:26 PM |
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Keep us posted if you have make any discoveries.
Cheers Davie
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/7/07 at 08:11 PM |
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Quite simply it is nothing to do with the diff or the crown wheel and pinion.
Final drives just don't lock solid unless teeth break on the pinion or crown wheel --- and if that happens you get a blloody great bang and
know something is broken.
It is almost certainly a brake problem --- I am pretty sure due to the master cylinder piston not returning fully due to a push rod
mal-adjustment.
A few Locosters have run into the brakes not just binding but seizing up solid the first time the fluid gets hot.
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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stevebubs
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| posted on 10/7/07 at 12:57 PM |
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Been running a 2litre blacktop zetec on an english diff for about 2 years now without issues...about 5k miles covered.
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Memphis Twin
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| posted on 10/7/07 at 04:19 PM |
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Definitely a rear brake problem. Also I should check your rear wheel bearings...
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lightspear27
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| posted on 24/2/09 at 10:40 AM |
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Brake problem solved ... thanks for the advice
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