Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 08:39 PM |
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Front Indicator Extensions - Easy Solution
Hopefully, everyone should be able to do this.
Seems like the easiest and hassle free way.
Buy a length of 20mm electrical conduit from somewhere like B&Q.
Cut to length.
Using a vice or rubber mallet, insert a 10mm nut into each end of the conduit.
Screw indicator into one side.
Drill a 5mm hole through the centre of an M10 bolt.
Hold up to car and bolt in place.
Easy.
As long as your indicators have M10 threads!
Pat...
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 08:40 PM |
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Next pic:
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 08:41 PM |
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Next pic:
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 08:42 PM |
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Last pic:
 
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nib1980
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 08:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
Last pic:
what and where did you get your indicators from? i like your idea and want to blatently copy it.... 
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slim Jim
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 09:09 PM |
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I did exactly the same but used 15mm copper pipe as I was using M8 bolts. Used a bit of heat shrink on the copper tube for improved looks.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 09:12 PM |
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Think they were from Vehicle Wiring Products. If not, ebay!
The idea was for everyone to copy - stops folk having to think about it.
Good idea with the copper - that's M8 indicators sorted as well!
Pat...
[Edited on 20/7/07 by Avoneer]
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nick205
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 09:23 PM |
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Exactly what I did with mine, still in place 1200 miles later
quote:
Originally posted by slim Jim
I did exactly the same but used 15mm copper pipe as I was using M8 bolts. Used a bit of heat shrink on the copper tube for improved looks.
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AdrianH
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| posted on 20/7/07 at 10:25 PM |
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Are you glueing the nuts into the tube or adding the odd tack weld or anything?
Perhaps just relying on the tightness of the nut in the tube, be interested to know as I would have thought vibration would work the things apart.
Cheers
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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40inches
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| posted on 21/7/07 at 09:45 AM |
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If you make the tube in one piece,and long enough i.e through the nose cone and out the other side, the tube becomes part of the body and all of the
suspension behind and below is exempt from SVA radii checking(checked with cone)
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 21/7/07 at 11:47 AM |
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I did the same, only different being I used overflow water pipe, used the bolt in one end and a nut in the other and araldited them into the tube.
Works well, I have done a couple of hundred miles and still not fallen off
I got my indicators off eBay from a motorcyle parts company. I got the clear/iridium lenses on mine and as they were E marked passed SVA
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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wicket
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| posted on 21/7/07 at 02:01 PM |
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I used these, black body with amber lens.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MCYCLE&pcode=BIKINDULSPBLK
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bob
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| posted on 21/7/07 at 04:07 PM |
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I did the same for my re test, one of things i completely forgot to measure up pre test.
Plastic conduit worked fine and carried no or little weight.
 
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Avoneer
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| posted on 22/7/07 at 10:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
Are you glueing the nuts into the tube or adding the odd tack weld or anything?
Perhaps just relying on the tightness of the nut in the tube, be interested to know as I would have thought vibration would work the things apart.
Cheers
Adrian
You don't get much vibration during SVA.
Pat...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 12/8/07 at 07:27 PM |
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Slight addition:
Glue the nuts into the tubes with araldite or similar.
One arm went a bit wobbly just before SVA, but fortunately, he didn't wobble them.
Pat...
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