Avoneer
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:29 PM |
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Thoughts on wheel spacers
What's the general consensus if I want to increase my rear by about 20mm each side?
I know about the hubcentric thingies, but even at the mo, my alloys don't sit on the teeny weeny flange that the drums have.
I was thinking about the cheaper spacer and longer wheel stud ones.
Axle is the English variety.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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TimC
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:37 PM |
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Hi Pat
I have clearance issues on my unusual rear calipers. Spacers are therefore a necessary evil!
TC
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bigrich
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:42 PM |
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Pat
i would rcommend you get your wheels the sit on the hubs, seen broken wheel studs caused by this problem.
What about some different offset wheels to widen the track.
Are you using escort offset wheels et18 or similar so you could go to et0 to get your 20mm ish
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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madteg
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:50 PM |
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spacers
I had two studs break so would not advice, get wheel to fit direct on hubs.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:52 PM |
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Hi,
I'm keeping the Escort wheels!
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:52 PM |
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So looks like I'm staying as I am as well then.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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TimC
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:52 PM |
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Oh sh*t!
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t.j.
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 09:56 PM |
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??
Porsche uses them?
So why did the studs break?
Also there are different spacers.
Please feel free to correct my bad English, i'm still learning. Your Dutch is awfull! :-)
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TimC
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 10:12 PM |
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I'm only looking for 12mm. I don't really have a choice.
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Chippy
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 10:25 PM |
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I have used spacers in the past, for various reasons. Always good quality ones, made for purpose, not the slotted universal fit things. Used 1"
ones on one motor, and have never had a problem with them, no brocken studs at least. They do tend to put extra load on the wheel bearings, as your
putting the load further out on the axle. But I havn't ever had to fit new bearings, maybe just didn't keep the cars long enough. HTH Ray
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NeilP
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 11:08 PM |
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Ditto. 20mm spacers each side at the rear but specific ones that fit the centre rim of the hub, provide a centre rim for the wheel, bolt to the
existing studs and then provide new studs for the wheel to bolt to - Very strong with the only downside as Ray pointed out.
If you pay peanuts...
Mentale, yar? Yar, mentale!
Drive it like you stole it!
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indykid
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| posted on 3/9/07 at 11:39 PM |
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i'm almost sure forgales in heckmondwike (by ponderosa) said they could turn up wheel spacers. just get the centre bore of your hub and the
centre bore of your wheels and necessary clearances.
if they won't do it now, they can definitely do you the bar stock and maybe martin would turn them up for you?
it has to be spacers as far as i can see if you want to keep the wheels.
tom
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daviep
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 01:02 AM |
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Nothing wrong with the cheap slotted type in my opinion.
I would be very gratefull if somebody could enlighten me as to how they can cause wheel studs to shear?
Cheers
Davie
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 05:34 AM |
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I used 1" ones on the rear of my old Tiger which i had for 6 years with never a problem. Understand they put extra stress on the bearings but in
a car thats half (or less) than the donor vehicle that the bearings were designed for then is this an issue??
Would certainly use properly designed ones machined to ensure the wheel is perfectly centred, in preference to the universal slotted ones, like the
ones here http://www.performancealloys.com/alloy_wheel_spacers.asp.
Damned site cheaper than new wheels arent they!!
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RazMan
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 07:19 AM |
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Hubcentric are a must if you go over 10mm imo. The extra support from the hub ensures that you get the wheel absolutely central (ensuring good wheel
balance) and also takes the shear forces away from the studs.
I have 20mm hubcentric spacers on the back - no problems in 8k miles but they do add a fair bit of weight as they are solid steel.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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procomp
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 07:41 AM |
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Hi the ones from raldes are good.
And available up to 1"/25mm as this is the max allowed by MSA governed regs.
Club level race and rally cars have been using these for many many thousands of miles whith out problems. But yes you do need to take some care with
keeping the wheel centered.
cheers matt
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 08:03 AM |
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definately hubcentric.
Ive had problems with even the 5mm cheapies. serious wheel wobble as they arent 100% centred.
the wheel bolts are there to keep the wheel mated to the hub face, if you remove the hub lip (by fitting spacers with no lip) then the wheel bolts are
also taking the weight of the wheel and every shock up through the wheel too. If you have a lip then this takes all the abuse.
I had to fit them to my M3 to clear coilovers and they were perfect even on track. 15mm hubcentric.
www.wheel-spacers.co.uk do them at a good price.
ford 4stud type 10 (bolt to hub then wheels bolt to spacer) £45 a pair. you get all the bolts etc too.

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02GF74
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 08:42 AM |
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is removing a 20 mm strip from the rear wheel arches not an option?
(and keep away from the Carlos Fandango ones)
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RazMan
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:02 AM |
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Minor Hijack Alert
If anyone has any hubcentric Ford 6-10mm spacers I would like to hear from you
.... carry on
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:07 AM |
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I dont think there is enough metal on <10mm spacers to make them hubcentric.
smallest Ive ever seen were 10mm
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oadamo
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 09:25 AM |
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k ford autos kingswinford
i got 4 Hubcentric 25mm spacers from them for my saxo. with bolts for 50 pounds and to use them on my mk2 escort i just changed the plastic ring bit
in the middle. they have been on about a year and no probs with them. and i kill the crap out of it lol. ive got 4/10mm and 4/5mm spaces i dont need
if your after some.
adam
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chockymonster
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 10:35 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by TimC
Hi Pat
I have clearance issues on my unusual rear calipers. Spacers are therefore a necessary evil!
TC
I'd hate to say I told you so
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 11:47 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
is removing a 20 mm strip from the rear wheel arches not an option?
(and keep away from the Carlos Fandango ones)
It's not about asthetics - my wheels & tyres are damn close to the bolts holding the trailing arms, as I found out on Saturday at
Elvington.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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daviep
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 05:48 PM |
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Okay so far nobody has explained how slotted spacers can cause a wheel stud to shear!
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2b_pablo
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| posted on 4/9/07 at 05:51 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by daviep
Okay so far nobody has explained how slotted spacers can cause a wheel stud to shear!
actually i did
quote: Originally posted by 2b_pablo
the wheel bolts are there to keep the wheel mated to the hub face, if you remove the hub lip (by fitting spacers with no lip) then the wheel bolts are
also taking the weight of the wheel and every shock up through the wheel too. If you have a lip then this takes all the abuse.
[Edited on 4/9/07 by 2b_pablo]
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