akumabito
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| posted on 18/11/07 at 12:07 AM |
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Costs of developing GRP Mini shell?
I was wondering how much it would cost to take molds off a Mini shell, doors, front end, bonnet, boot and dash and prep the molds to a finish ready
for small-series production.. Then how much would it be approximately to produce the body parts from those molds?
Just looking for a rough indication in terms of materials and the like, so excluding labor costs...
Also important; what are the legal issues for copying a vehicle design? There are so many carbon copies of well-known brands out there that I assume
there will be no great difficulties, but I'd rather be on the safe side and check first..
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 18/11/07 at 12:17 AM |
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http://www.absmotorsport.com/allmakes/mini.htm
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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akumabito
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| posted on 18/11/07 at 12:57 AM |
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I know it's been done... just interested in what's involved to do it yourself.
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 18/11/07 at 01:00 AM |
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just showing you some prices .
and i dont think thats current either .
if you can do a lot yourself , it might only cost £500 in materials for the molds and some product .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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tegwin
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| posted on 18/11/07 at 10:54 AM |
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What you want to do is talk to this gentleman:
CLICK ME
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minitici
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| posted on 18/11/07 at 05:26 PM |
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Try Here
Build a Maguire Mini replica.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 21/11/07 at 11:40 AM |
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Is this any inspiration for you?
I was fortunate to take a look at this when they were in old premises years ago. Looked like a nice project.
http://www.framini.co.uk/
Looks like its the same as TDK above - i think they bought the FRA project from John a while back.
[Edited on 21/11/07 by DarrenW]
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Normsthename
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| posted on 27/11/07 at 12:20 PM |
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quote:
I know it's been done... just interested in what's involved to do it yourself.
I used to be a GRP Laminator building speedboats  and I used to make moulds from scratch.
It depends on what you want to produce.
If you want to produce a one off, then it is not too bad.
But if you want to produce a production mould be prepared in spending a lot of Midnight Oil
The process goes something like this :-
Make a 'Plug' this is an exact replica of the finished part
This can be made from just about anything,
The usual method is to make 'ribs' of the profile and join these together. Then lots of filler, sanding, more filler sanding etc etc
The finish has to withstand Acetone, so no spraying it with cellolose as it will disolve before yours eyes as soon as the gelcoat touches it
The more work you put into the finish the better.
When I make plugs I polish them to a mirror finish.
The less work you do on the plug, the more work needed on the mould and also the chance that it won't release and you will have scrap it and
start from the beginning 
Once the plug is polished it is then coated with approx 7 coats of release wax, and then finally given a fine coat of PVA release agent.
This ensures (almost) that it will not stick!
If the shape is complicated and has undercuts the mould will have to be made in several pieces.
The plug is then coated with a coloured Gelcoat, usually a colour opposite to the colour you want to produce the finished parts in.
This is then allowed to cure.
Then several layers of glass fibre and resin are laid up onto the plug.
I usually apply approx. 7 layers in total which makes the mould approx. 3/8" to 1/2" thick.
It has to be this thick because there is a lot of stress when releasing the GRP parts.
Once this has fully cured for a few days, the edges are trimmed off and sanded (Wear a mask!!!!)
you then release the plug from the mould.
Hopefully the plug is still perfect, so you can take future moulds off it when the existing mould wears out.
Finally the mould is polished to a mirror finish, the finish of the finished part will only be as good as the finish on the mould.
The mould is then given several coats of release wax, and then a fine coat of PVA.
This is then coated with a gelcoat colour of your choice.
Once it has set, the edge is trimmed off with a knife.
A couple of hours later, the glassfibre and resin are applied.
Once it has started to harden ('green' the edge is trimmed with a knife.
Then you leave it overnight to cure, and it can be removed the next day.
You are finished 
Here is a site with photos of a guy making a custom bodywork for a FF motorcycle :-
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/tmax/tmax11.htm
Hope this helps..........
Andy
[Edited on 27/11/07 by Normsthename]
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iank
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| posted on 27/11/07 at 10:52 PM |
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Biggest risk is BMW suing (whether they have a leg to stand on or not is irrelevant, their lawyers could keep you in court for years).
They have shut down a couple of grp copies over the years, most notably the Stewart & Arden minisprint replica Hawk were making.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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andyps
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| posted on 30/11/07 at 01:57 PM |
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I thought the design for the original Mini actually stayed with MG Rover, and therefore would now be owned by the Chinese. On the principle that the
design is now 48 years old I don't think copyright would apply anyway. BMW would almost certainly object, however, if you were to use the Mini
name.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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Simon
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| posted on 30/11/07 at 11:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iank
Biggest risk is BMW suing (whether they have a leg to stand on or not is irrelevant, their lawyers could keep you in court for years).
They have shut down a couple of grp copies over the years, most notably the Stewart & Arden minisprint replica Hawk were making.
Big let down that, I saw the S&A rep at a local Mini specialist (who did a bit of work on my turboed Mini) and who was threatened by BMW for using
the name Mini. He knew more than BMW ever would.
So BMW: Mini, Mini, Mini, Mini, Mini,Mini, Mini
BMW just haven't got a clue, just an effin great ego.
Norm, the first half of your post (about the buck) doesn't apply as he wants to mould a Mini
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 30/11/07 by Simon]
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