aka Keith
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:14 PM |
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Locost camber and toe in measuring
What is the best tool/locost tool to measure camber and toe in/out.
Its for a BEC MK indy.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:21 PM |
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this, what?  it works fine! clamp a bit of wood against the wheel and measure off it...
[Edited on 29/4/08 by Mr Whippy]
 
Rescued attachment measure.jpg
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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aka Keith
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:32 PM |
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Cheers Mr Whippy, but as a newbie to this game, could you help out a little more.
It has been far too many years since I was in school, and I have forgotten all my trig.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:42 PM |
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Ok
1) Get yourself a sprit level and make sure the chassis is sitting at the right height and level with the floor (on it wheels of course)
2) With the wheels dead ahead put the level vertically against the side of the front tyre and check that it is vertical, for now at least.
3) Caster you’re stuck with unless you have adjustable wishbones...
4) clamp a piece of wood horizontally across the outside of each front wheel. Measure the difference between the front and back measurements, no
difference is zero toe in, I'd leave it at that till you can drive it about, and then adjust it to suit when you can see how it behaves.
[Edited on 29/4/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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aka Keith
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:47 PM |
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Mr Whippy, the car is running, SVA'd etc, however I want to make small changes to the settings until it is just so.. but Iw want to make sure
that both sides are adjusted to the same settings.
so I would like to check the camber and the toe in, without taking it preferably to a set up place...but if I need to (if it is recommended) I
will.
Cheers
Craig
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:53 PM |
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take it to kwik fit they'll most likey do it for free for the sheer novelty, loved my buggy and I never paid a penny 
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Hellfire
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 03:55 PM |
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For the toe in/out; If the distance between the two lengths of angle iron at the front of the car is the same as the distance furthest away, then the
tracking is parallel. Simple trig will then enable you to make any toe in/out adjustments.
Phil
[Edited on 29-4-08 by Hellfire]
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aka Keith
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 04:01 PM |
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Cheers Phil
Sorry simple Trig.....I have forgotten all the trig learnt at school..can you remind me?
[Edited on 29/4/08 by aka Keith]
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James
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 04:54 PM |
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SOHCAHTOA...
what more you need?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Mix
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 05:19 PM |
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Forget angle iron, for the same price you can get a couple of battery lasers to project onto a wall / screen.
Mick
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RazMan
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 05:34 PM |
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Ahem! 
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=75669
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 08:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Forget angle iron, for the same price you can get a couple of battery lasers to project onto a wall / screen.
Mick
A cheap laser pointer won't have a beam that is remotely parallel to the length of the body, how would you use them for checking geometry? Fine
for taking relative measurements such as bump steer though.
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procomp
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 02:26 PM |
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Hi is it not normal to check your tracking at ride height rather than full droop. Especially given the amount of bumpsteer on an Indy.
Cheers Matt
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aka Keith
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 03:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi is it not normal to check your tracking at ride height rather than full droop. Especially given the amount of bumpsteer on an Indy.
Cheers Matt
I assume that was a question about the picture from Hellfire/Phil.. I was wondering the same, I thought you measured the seetings at ride height?
Phil, can you comment?
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Mix
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| posted on 30/4/08 at 03:40 PM |
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Hi Mike RJ
My lasers were about £4 each and have an adjuster to allow initial zeroing which I will accomplish by sighting down a straight edge clamped to the hub
/ disc.
Cheers Mick
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