The Doc
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 08:13 AM |
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Non Locost Question
In the decades I have been doing up old knackers I have never really resolved this question:
When repairing rotten bodywork
Filler then primer or
Primer then filler?
I have generally thought it best to use rust arresting primer, then filler but on new metal not so sure.
Any body repair experts out there who can advise?
TA
Mike
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r1_pete
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 08:22 AM |
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My view when restoring bodywork, cut out the rust, weld in new metal, never create more layers of metal than original. Grind and tidy welds, 40 grit
DA the bare metal, filler, etch primer, primer, finish. Many etch primers wont take polyester fillers on top.
Rgds.
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02GF74
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 08:41 AM |
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hmmmm, I have always painted the metal with zinc primer or similar then put put filler on top.
pimer/filler primer and paint on top of that.
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jabs
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 09:49 AM |
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Was taught at college, on a car restoration course, to apply filler to bare metal to get a direct bond. otherwise you are just bonding to the paint
layer
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Delinquent
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 10:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jabs
Was taught at college, on a car restoration course, to apply filler to bare metal to get a direct bond. otherwise you are just bonding to the paint
layer
ironically, I was told NEVER to apply the filler to bare metal for exactly that reason - I was told that the best thing to do is to use either an etch
or an epoxy primer first - with preference given to the epoxy primer.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 11:35 AM |
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I guess the real answer is there isn't a right or wrong way of doing it, as long as the materials are compatible, and the repair is invisible..
Only time would tell which fails first if at all.
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worX
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 12:08 PM |
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I was told that you shouldn't apply filler to bare metal as it is porous, so by the time you come round to painting it, it has already drawn in
a small amount of moisture and so will therefore start to corrode the area you've just repaired from behind the repair...
Steve
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chrsgrain
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 01:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
My view when restoring bodywork, cut out the rust, weld in new metal, never create more layers of metal than original. Grind and tidy welds, 40 grit
DA the bare metal, filler, etch primer, primer, finish. Many etch primers wont take polyester fillers on top.
Rgds.
I'd agree - but use lead loading in place of the filler.... much better job....
Chris
Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...
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r1_pete
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 02:14 PM |
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Yep I agree Chris, tried lead a few times, never seem to get quite enough in, whether its just a skim or a dollop required, end up with a bit of
filler rather than starting again.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 30/6/08 at 07:00 PM |
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Porous fillers went out with Austin A35's, if you were to etch then fill, when you block out the filler, you would remove the surrounding etch
so no point putting it there in the first place.
Bare metal with all welds fully dressed with 80g. No pinholes in the welds or the surrounding steel. never fill onto unkeyed existing paint. Always
cover filler with a stopper layer.
We use about 50kgs of stopper a month, but only 5kgs of filler, I personally never use filler, if a dent is that deep, it needs planishing.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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