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Author: Subject: Sump warping?
coozer

posted on 29/8/08 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
Sump warping?

Impending engine change on my car (when I get it back) to a zetec blacktop, the bottom steel sump pan needs a chop.

I've chopped the bottom off square and cut a piece of flat steel, welded it slowly, ie a bit at a time (different days) but its starting to warp slightly.

Should I bolt it up to the engine to weld the rest and stop it bending.

I'm using gas so is brazing less prone to warping than welding??

Steve





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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dave r

posted on 29/8/08 at 01:55 PM Reply With Quote
bolt it to a heavy bit of ply or mdf, dont realy want crap from welding in the bottom of you engine
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David Jenkins

posted on 29/8/08 at 02:09 PM Reply With Quote
I screwed my x-flow sump to a thick and flat piece of ply before welding.

As Dave says - probably not a good idea to weld it on the engine block...






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DarrenW

posted on 29/8/08 at 02:50 PM Reply With Quote
As others, mine was screwed to old piece of worktop. If using the one in your kitchen id recommend using the underside as the screw holes are a bugger to fill afterwards.






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Paul TigerB6

posted on 29/8/08 at 02:53 PM Reply With Quote
The blacktop sump is a two piece item isnt it with a cast ali part which bolts to the engine, and then a steel lower pan?? If this is so cant you use the ali part to keep it in shape well away from the engine??

You wouldnt have had this issue if you had fitted a bike engine you know!!

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David Jenkins

posted on 29/8/08 at 03:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Paul TigerB6
You wouldnt have had this issue if you had fitted a bike engine you know!!


No - you'd be too busy sorting out clutch problems!








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Paul TigerB6

posted on 29/8/08 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
No - you'd be too busy sorting out clutch problems!




Set of heavy duty springs and jobs a good-un. 30 minute job and dont even have to take the oil out - same as when changing the clutch with engines like the R1. A problem i wouldnt mind having to sort out every couple of years or so!!

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coozer

posted on 29/8/08 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks I've used a 1" thick steel flange and its worked OK.

"You wouldnt have had this issue if you had fitted a bike engine you know!!

Ha ha, I did have to chop my ZX9R sump with my Striker so there!

IVE HAD A BEC AND NOW I DON'T WANT ANOTHER ONE!

Steve





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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zetec7

posted on 29/8/08 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
AS for the welding vs. brazing issue, I don't think there's be much difference, as both require rather a lot of heat, over a large area. MIG would be much better IMHO, as there's a lot less heat used, over a much smaller area, so much less warping.





http://www.freewebs.com/zetec7/

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motorcycle_mayhem

posted on 29/8/08 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
Ummm.. actually you DO have the same problem with a bike engine. When you come to chop a few inches from the bottom of your bike alloy sump, you realise that (1) the alloy is the scrapings off the floor quality and (2) you've got to weld it while bolted to a very heavy steel plate to stop it warping badly. Said steel retaining plate is also great for when you preheat the sump in the oven, for you also realise that your single phase TIG just isn't going to man enough alone....
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