chrisg
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 09:54 PM |
|
|
Pinto non runner
Hello my little ones,
I have a problem(no, not that one)
My Engine won't run!!!!
Boo hoo etc....
OK, it's a 2 litre Pinto, with a 32/36 DGAV
It will start,reluctantly, but it dies after about 10 seconds.
The Ignition is all new and checks out with the multi-meter, which, to me points to a fuel problem.
Any ideas lads???
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
|
|
Metal Hippy™
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:03 PM |
|
|
Crap engine?
President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:06 PM |
|
|
Tosser
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
Fatboy Dave
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:08 PM |
|
|
Oh dear.
Tried blowing the lines through? Filters clean? Pump working?
Does the ignition spark? Buzzing it with the meter isn't any cop, what kind of spark have you got? voltage to the coil?
Air leaks?
More info please!
Dave
Stop the planet, I want to get off
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
Metal Hippy™
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:09 PM |
|
|
So my non pisstake with a basis in fact has been dismissed as wrong?
President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:13 PM |
|
|
Good spark at all plugs
New pump with plenty of fuel at the carb
12v at the coil, on the ballast resistor
Don't know about air leaks, none obvious
Have a think Dave!
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
merlin
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:19 PM |
|
|
Had a similar problem with an 1800 SOHC, the rubber pickup tube on the sender unit was squashed on the bottom of the tank thus limiting the quantity
of fuel being drawn to the pump - might be worth checking?!
shit happens! (but why always to me!!)
|
|
|
Fatboy Dave
|
| posted on 16/7/02 at 10:20 PM |
|
|
Bugger that, I'm off to bed 
Air leak is the prime suspect here. Did the carb belong to the egine, or have you fitted it?
Ignition timing? You'd get flames out of the carb though.
I'll reply in the morning when I'm not half asleep......
Dave
Stop the planet, I want to get off
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
Fatboy Dave
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 12:27 PM |
|
|
Righty then, assuming you've checked the things I mentionned above, I'm stumped. I just waffled on about ballast resistors, but deleted it because I
remember you said you had healthy sparks.
Have you whipped the fuel line off and checked for fuel? (Into a jug?) I won't bore you with the hours spent wasted on a Hillman Imp when I thought
there was fuel at the engine, only to realise it was just the dregs dribbling out when I loosened the union, and the tank was infact, bone dry.....
Apart from that, I'm stumped. Did the engine run before you fitted it to the Locost?
Air leaks won't be obvious, tinyest of leaks can stop an engine from running. A small piece of pipe stuck in your ear and held around the
manifold-head joint and carb-manifold joint would help you determine any leaks.
Right, unfortunately, that's me out of ideas 
P.S. Will it be persuaded to run if you floor the gas?
Dave
Stop the planet, I want to get off
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
Max
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
The fuel lines seem a likely candidate, are they new? I’ve had a problem on two occasions where the rubber hoses appeared to be in good nick but have
turned out to have collapsed internally and would only let very small amounts of fuel through and even less when the was a real load on the line.
“A little knowledge is a dangerous thing” – By this definition I’m lethal.
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 08:26 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the replys chaps,
Checked the fuel sytem all through from the tank to the carb, and it's fine - a good squirt every second revolution, just as it says in the book - it
won't start at all now!!!
The engine and carb came with the donor and it ran fine before I filletted it.
it may be just me but maybe it's not turning over as fast as it might on the starter, It's a new battery and starter motor.
I'm stumped
I'm going to try another carb
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
Fatboy Dave
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 08:46 PM |
|
|
Could be a bad earth you know, it's a two minute check to see (healthy spark on a plug held against the engine is different to getting one under
load).
Failing that, what have you got in the tank? Unleaded of 4*? Unleaded turns to jelly and blocks jets if you leave it, giving the trouble you describe.
Normally a good hose-out of cyclo-clean or carb cleaner (or stripping and replacing the jets if it's real bad) will probably sort it.
Also, when you crank an engine for elongated periods, you tend to get a fair bit of fuel (and ignition advance, more of that later) built up, again,
pointing to dodgy ignition if the fuel ain't being burnt).
On advance, are you sure you wired it up OK? Is it point or electronic? I've grown sick of stuck V8 bob-weights making the engines hard to crank,
because the ignition is over advanced (as the piston is trying to come up on compression, it gets knocked down again by the spark igniting the charge,
making it crank slowly).
Just a few more things to try.......
Dave
Stop the planet, I want to get off
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 09:28 PM |
|
|
Hello Dave,
I'm going to put another earth on it tomorrow, but the wires aren't getting hot so I don't think it's that.
It's got LRP in it but it's only been in about two weeks, so......
It's points ignition - I'll check the bob weights tomorrow.
Thanks for your help Dave, I'll keep you informed!
Cheers
Chris 
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
Fatboy Dave
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 09:34 PM |
|
|
Cheers Chris.
I hate knowing there's an engine out there I couldn't get going
I'd appreciate knowing if it is the carb (beginning to think so now)
Dave
Stop the planet, I want to get off
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
johnston
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 09:51 PM |
|
|
has your carb got a fuel return changed a 32/36 on my mk1 escy once wouldnt run right cos the one i added had a return pipe which i just blocked (must
have put to much pressure in the float chamber or something) so i just put a tee into the fuel feed and put the return pie into it.
p.s.i work for the q.h. distributors in n.i. check your pump they can be faulty new rare but does happen
and finally... a quick way to check for air leaks is to spray wd40 onto diffrent parts of the inlet system and listen to the revs (wd40 stops the air
getting in for a moment) do it bit at a time and you can pin point a leak.
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 17/7/02 at 10:47 PM |
|
|
OI Chris you got the fuel pipes the right way round?
|
|
|
marcjagman
|
| posted on 19/7/02 at 10:04 PM |
|
|
Try swapping wires on the coil
|
|
|
johnston
|
| posted on 20/7/02 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
or talkin of coils make sure u've got a ballast resistor on if its on the original car i had one on an old fiesta that nobody new existed (not even
ford mechanics) it looked just like a heavy wire that was buried in the loom.
we relised wot it was cos my da is a boat mechanic and some of the mercruiser in board engines used them
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 20/7/02 at 03:02 PM |
|
|
Ah ha Johnston,
You may have something there!
Spoke to Local engine guru, and he rekons it's definately the ballast resistor thats broken down internally.
Been trying to pick one up for the last few days - no luck. Any ideas where to get one? I've tried Ford Dealers(they laughed) Local motor factors,
Halfords (don't know why) and Tesco
Cheers
Chris
(Got some beer in Tesco to cheer myself up!!)
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
Fatboy Dave
|
| posted on 20/7/02 at 05:35 PM |
|
|
So then, my rambling piece about ballast resistors and resistance wire that I deleted was just about there then? Bugger
Try Halfwits, they had one on the shelf. Try Lucas P/N SCB400. Has a load of Fords listed on the box, from 2.5 V6 Mk1 Grannies, through to Valencia
Escorts.
Failing that, try a Lucas service centre.
What loom have you used BTW?
Dave
Stop the planet, I want to get off
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
johnston
|
| posted on 20/7/02 at 05:41 PM |
|
|
if its the wire type one like was on mine try your local boat (if ur near a coast) some of the mercruser engines are marinised fords i think there the
v6s not sure (i was only a wee nipper last time i was messin wit 1) but any guy worth his salt will no
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 20/7/02 at 06:32 PM |
|
|
Just put a standard(non resisted)coil on and ignore the resistor. 
|
|
|
johnston
|
| posted on 20/7/02 at 06:39 PM |
|
|
uif your running points that can burn them out real quick (been there done that)
|
|
|
chrisg
|
| posted on 27/7/02 at 09:43 PM |
|
|
I think I've sussed it and it's not good news
The engine is "tight" i.e. it is binding and won't turn over very well.
The stupid engine builder(me)must have made a mistake.
I'm going to keep turning it over - see if it loosens off - if not it looks like another short engine.
B*LL*CKS
Cheers
Chris
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
|
|
|
stephen_gusterson
|
| posted on 27/7/02 at 10:30 PM |
|
|
But why would a tight engine run for a while and then stop? if its seizing that would be fairly permanent after the first go?
I heard stories from my motor mechanic grandad years ago about cars being towed to loosen the engine....but thats dark ages.
Drop some oil down the bores and see if it spins more freely?
Are you sure its not flooding - look at the plugs.
If the floats not seating, then it will overflow the chamber and stop.
For the resistor, just check with a voltmeter at the coil and if you get it running watch and see if it drops away. you should always have volts on
the non CB side.
atb
Steve
|
|
|
