Duratec Engine Swap Thread

Not logged in [Login - Register]

LocostBuilders » Forum » Maintenance & Modifications » Duratec Engine Swap Thread

Power Tools at MachineMart.co.uk

Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
<< 1 2 >>

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 5/12/14 at 09:42 PM

Catch up time again.....

Decided to make up a new water rail for the back of the head.

Description

Then on with refitting the repainted covers and crank pulley

Description

Description

Took the car out for a last blat with the Pinto on the penultimate weekend in November, then onto SORN and time to start stripping.

Description

Description

On getting the tunnel top off, I discovered that the top of the reverse switch had been knocked off on the side of the tunnel. Need to change the original sierra mount for something stiffer - have a Cortina one to go in there.

Then it was onto taking the engine out, Brother in law came over to help and within a few hours it was out.

Description

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 15/12/14 at 09:36 PM

Some more progress to report

Split the engine and gearbox before removing the bellhousing.

Description

Then had a look at the front of the gearbox. The old release bearing sleeve does not fit through the hydraulic cylinder, and is no longer required so I cut it off.

Description

Description

Then onto fitting the bellhousing to the gearbox, complete with hydraulic cylinder, hoses and layhaft securing bolt.

Description

Description

Then it was time to get the engine off its stand, fit the flywheel, crank bearing and flywheel

Description

Description

Then time to mate the engine and gearbox.

Description

Description

Made a guard to cover the opening under the bellhousing

Description

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 15/12/14 at 09:57 PM

The original Type 9 gearbox mount was too flexible and had allowed the gearbox to move and damage the top of the reverse switch. Fund tat the Cortina HD mount is a popular alternative, but has different hole centres and is higher than the sierra item. I didn't want to modify the chassis so I made some adaptor plates.

Description

Description

Before I fitted the engine I wanted to modify the pedalbox while I could get into the engine bay. The old clutch was cable operated, so I needed to fit a master cylinder and then a bottom mounted pedal to operate it. Without removing the scuttle/ steering column, access is limited, so I decided to make a bolt in frame for the new pedal.

First job was to remove the old bits, and drill the holes for the master cylinder.

Description

Description

Then it was onto cutting out the bits in the pedalbox - an absolute pig to get access involving angle grinders, saws dremels etc

Description

Then I made up a frame to bolt through the bottom of the pedalbox and master cylinder to act as the pivot. Used a Haynes brake pedal with a couple of minor mods

Description

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 15/12/14 at 10:13 PM

Then it was time to go for an engine fitting. Roped the brother-in-law in again to help. Got the engine on the crane, halfway in and then realised the jib wasn't out far enough to get it all the way in - out it came for a re-rig and back in again.

A few bits were tight and the water rail, oil filter and starter had to come off. After 2 hours of work the engine was in. Now to look at the engine mounts. Hmm - the first problem. The sierra mounts sat on a turret above the chassis rails, for the duratec these were too high. So out came the engine, the turrets were chopped off and plates welded across the chasss rails - that took a couple of hours messing around!

Description

Description

Then it was back in with the engine. Followed by lots of careful measuring, setting and lining up. To my surprise the engine was further back than I expected by about 15mm. This meant that it would be touch and go if my homemade water rail would fit. Only the plus side it can only be good for weight distribution!

With the engine all setup I then made the engine mounts

Description

And to finish off the engine sat in its new home

Description

peter030371

Contributor

Posts 1246
Registered 26/4/12
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Raw Striker

posted on 16/12/14 at 10:57 AM

Looking good, your engine bay looks huge compared to a Striker

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 29/12/14 at 08:28 PM

Time for another update.

With the engine in I popped the bonnet on and it fitted nicely under the bonnet

Description

Then I stripped the old carbs and separated them ready for test fitting.

Description

Popped them onto the manifold I made a while back and all was looking good.....

Description

Then on with the bonnet and oh c*ck! The bonnet was resting on top of the carbs and still had another 10mm to shut.

Description

Time to start again. Cut the runners off the plate and then made some new horizontal runners with a kick up to get some angle on the carbs

Description

Made up the first runner as a test and all was good.

Description

A day of cutting, welding, grinding and new manifold was done ...

Description

Description

Meanwhile I fitted my 'homemade' water rail which fitted over the top of the bulkhead with the pipe underneath just clear of it. I will have to re-engineer my header tank mounting.

Description

Another area I had been worried about was my homemade oil filter adaptor - no cause for concern as there was plenty of clearance.

Description

ceebmoj

Contributor

Posts 1322
Registered 17/2/03
Location Stokport Manchester
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Cyana

posted on 30/12/14 at 01:05 PM

great progress

theduck

A bit quackers

Posts 2368
Registered 31/12/10
Location Shropshire
Member Is Offline

Building: Boost

posted on 30/12/14 at 02:17 PM

Looking good, how do you think you are doing budget wise?

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 31/12/14 at 07:40 PM

quote:
Originally posted by theduck
Looking good, how do you think you are doing budget wise?

Budget wise, I'm upto about £1250 but I did go a bit over the top rebuilding the engine and also bought a small denso alternator as I decided it was easier to fit out of the car. In total all the gaskets, timing chains, cam buckets etc cost me about £170 for the engine and the alternator was £90.

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 3/1/15 at 08:35 PM

No rest for the wicked so I've been ploughing along over the Christmas break. Not many exciting developments but lots of important jobs done.

Got on with painting the engine mounts and mods to the chassis.

Description

Then fitted the clutch pedal, master cylinder, and finished making up the hose so I could fill the system. I back filled the system with a syringe from the bleed nipple. It must have worked as not much air came out during bleeding .... or there is still loads in there! I had a slight panic while bleeding as fluid started coming out form the bottom of the bellhousing apparently this is common. I've pumped the pedal until my leg goes dead and there is no sign of any leaks.

Description

I had also taken the opportunity to fill the engine with oil and remark the dipstick for the new sump. Unfortunately the next day I noticed a small oil patch on the floor. I actually found a couple of problems. The first was the dipstick tube, it was the only weld I hadn't tested for leaks and there was a tiny pinhole in it. Secondly I found a small weep from the sump to front cover joint. Finally I had used flanged bolts and discovered that a couple of them were catching the edge of the weld, I chucked these in the lathe and reduced the diameter. Sorted all those problems out and everything is now oil tight. With all that done I also filled the gearbox up.

Then it was onto the wiring, I sourced new plugs (quite a few free

) for all of the connectors. The alternator and crank sensor are on opposite side to the Pinto, so first job was to pull all the wiring back and get it on the correct side. I cut off the old crank sensor plug and replaced with the new one. Also pulled out the oil pressure switch wire and fitted it to the switch with a new plug.

The alternator was a bit more troublesome. Connected the battery and light terminals up. Then had to find a switched live, which I took form the opposite side of the ign light and ran a new cable down. Connected this up and then the diagrams I found showed a sense terminal for monitoring battery voltage. I powered the car up and the ign light was off without the engine running. Lots of research later I discovered that my alternator has a P terminal which is an output to indicate engine running. Disconnected this wire and the light came on.

Last bit of electrics was to extend the coil wires down to the new coil location and hook the starter up.

With all this done it was time to turn the engine over and check for oil pressure. Plugs out, key in and after 30s of worried cranking the oil light went off - phew. I also checked for spark at the same which was present.

Meanhwile I have been working on the carbs. Built each individual carb onto their respective runners, then made some aluminium spacers and long bolts to hold the carbs apart.

Description

For the fuel rail, having a CNC lathe comes in handy. Made two new outer fuel rails in aluminium and the centre tee in brass. The tee was made in two pieces and silver soldered together.

Description

The choke bar has also been respaced and the throttle levers modified to their new lengths - just need reassembling now. With the carbs on the bench I also took the opportunity to clean all the jets.

Today I've been working on the cooling system, being from a front wheel drive car, all the cooling pipework is on the inlet side so things are very crowded - will make jetting and carb tuning tricky. Got the basic layout setup

Description

Also got the header tank re-mounted, whih should have been simple but involved new brackets, modifying bits etc etc

Description

We're slowly working towards that first start ...... gulp!

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 7/1/15 at 07:24 PM

Just a quick update.

After mocking up the cooling system I finished the aluminium tubes by swaging them then connected everything up. Filled the system with water ................. drip .....drip .........drip ........... Bugger

I could see a small drip under the back of the head. The most likely culprit was my homemade water rail so I stripped the header tank off then, disconnected the various hoses, then removed the water rail. No obvious witness marks but I decided to pop it on the mill anyway to make sure the flange face was perfectly flat and then refitted with some RTV before rebuilding the cooling system.

Popped down the garage to refill the cooling system, all lovely and then drip drip drip. Looks like it is actually the EGR blanking plate leaking!! Oh well back to work...

Kghaas

Junior Builder

Posts 12
Registered 29/3/13
Member Is Offline

Building: Lotus Seven S4 Duratec

posted on 11/1/15 at 06:21 PM

Really good progress! Some small setbacks is part of the progress! Good luck on the startup, shouldt be to far away

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 13/1/15 at 08:28 PM

Bit slow updating...

So after a bit of research I discovered that the EGR is water cooled. So off with the water rail, off with the EGR then lots of RTV and all back together. Refill cooling system and bingo - no leaks

This is how the cooling system ended up - as you can see very crowded!

Description

Description

Then made the final tests of the inlet manifold. I made some brackets to hold the carbs to the head. Simple aluminium strip bent around. I had the carbs try and come off on the Pinto so added these as belt and braces.

Description

I got a thick inlet manifold from DanST.

Description

Then everything was fitted up, carbs on ignition leads fitted. Looks pretty nice even if I do say so myself

Description

Description

I've been waiting for some exhaust tube to arrive to start the mods, but in the meantime I couldn't wait to try and start it. Previously, I had turned the engine over to check oil pressure and spark. Before fitting the carbs I balanced them on the bench with a bit of flattened welding rod and then would them until there was just a crack of light showing through.

Then the moment of truth ......

http://youtu.be/BecyQL0T1-Y

Yeeehaaaa. Was really surprised at how quickly and easily it started - i'm more used to 5 minutes of chugging, splurting and coughing!

ryanill

Contributor

Posts 133
Registered 21/10/10
Location Kidderminster
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: MK Indy

posted on 14/1/15 at 10:25 AM

looking good, keep up the good thread

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 18/1/15 at 07:39 PM

Time to get on with the exhaust. I had planned to do this over Christmas, but I was let down by two separate suppliers trying to get some tube, so when I finally got some I took a couple of days off as I knew I would run out of welding gas part way through!

First job was to cut off the old flanges and offer the tubes up to the new engine.

Description

Hmmm - that doesn't look good. The port spacing wasn't that different, but as my engine was sitting slightly further back, I needed to decide what to do. I could move my complete exhaust back, but then my silencer would be very close to the rear arch and I would have to open up the bonnet hole. Instead I decided to leave the exhaust position as is and modify the runners to reach the head.

Description

Description

A couple of days work doesn't look like much in a few photos!

Now onto my next challenge - an airbox. With the carbs mounted, there is very little space under the bonnet for a filter. If I did manage to fit one it would be tight up against the of the bonnet and probably quite restrictive. I didn't want to cut a hole in the bonnet and stick the filter out so my only option was to make my own airbox - I'm a fibreglass virgin so this should be interesting.

Started by buying a filter element from a pipecross airbox. After a bit of head scratching and googling I worked out how it fits.

Description

Got a sheet of Celotex insulation from wickes and started carving

Description

Description

On with the filler next.

Kghaas

Junior Builder

Posts 12
Registered 29/3/13
Member Is Offline

Building: Lotus Seven S4 Duratec

posted on 17/3/15 at 08:30 PM

How are you getting along? Are you upp and running?
A lot of nice fabrication in your thread...

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 17/3/15 at 09:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Kghaas
How are you getting along? Are you upp and running?
A lot of nice fabrication in your thread...

Thanks. I need to get back on here and update!

The engine starts and runs up to temp and the car has moved under its own power. I now need to get the engine setup, carbs balanced etc. After lots and lots of effort the airbox came out of the mould on the weekend. Now needs tidying up and fitting. New fuel tank fitted, along with a boot box, modifying the boot lid and relocating the fuel filler.

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 21/3/15 at 10:04 PM

Forgive me for I have sinned ......... It has been a long time since my last update. A promotion at work means some of my car time has disappeared so I've been spending time working on the car rather than updating here.

So to start with the airbox. It has been quite a big learning experience!

I took the foam body and following the advice in a book I have I watered down some polyfilla and brushed it on. After numerous days of filling, sanding etc. Was all looking great, then the problems started. The filler formed a shell over the foam, but then started to break up and come off in chunks. At this point I decided to switch to proper p38 bodyfiller.

Description

Description

I fitted the mould to a board to form the flange. After a few weeks of sanding, filling etc we were just about there. There were a few little pin holes so while in Halfords I grabbed some holts stopper. Applied and all great until back in the garage to find large blisters over the mould - aaaaarrrrgggghhh. Seems some form of reaction had taken place so I had to scrape loads out and start again. Eventually getting closer and closer

Description

In the meantime I also made a small test piece to experiment with fibreglassing. Came out quite well.

Description

Description

Then it was back to the main job, firstly making fences then covering everything with mould release agent, before removing the fences and laying up each section in turn

Description

Description

With that all done it was left to harden before all being separated. The parts of the mould came apart surprisingly easy, but the original foam mould broke up in the process. I trimmed up all the edges to get rid of the excess material.

Description

Description

Time to take the plunge. Made the female mould up, coated in release agent then laid it up. Trying to do the tube section was very difficult as it was hard to make sure I got resin everywhere and got the air out.

Description

RESULT

Description

Trimmed up. Finish is not perfect but will be fine with a bit of filler and paint.

Description

And with pipercross air filter fitted.

Description

And finally test fitting to the car

Description

davidimurray

Contributor

Posts 813
Registered 25/1/10
Location South Wales
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Haynes Roadster

posted on 21/3/15 at 10:50 PM

It's not jus all about the airbox.

The back of the car was stripped down and fuel tank removed.

Description

Description

This allowed me to do some CAD (cardboard aided design) for a new fuel tank. Old tank was small and tall, so aim was to go lower, wider and get more capacity.

Description

Description

K4Kev over on the Haynes forum then made an aluminium tank to my design, complete with sump.

Description

Description

I've also wrapped the exhaust headers under the bonnet. After wrapping I tried spraying them with the special wrap coating you can buy to try and keep it tidy.

Description

Description

With the new fuel tank fitted I hacked the top cover into pieces and have made a start on a boot box. Part of this work also includes moving the fuel filler to the top of the tub - I'm fed up of dribbling fuel in at every fill up.

Description

Description

And last but not least the car has moved under it's own power. After a few setup issues - will get onto them later I even went as far today as taking it for a spin around the block.

Description

peter030371

Contributor

Posts 1246
Registered 26/4/12
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!

Building: Raw Striker

posted on 23/3/15 at 08:33 AM

I bet it was great to drive around the block

<< 1 2 >>

LocostBuilders » Forum » Maintenance & Modifications » Duratec Engine Swap Thread

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.