kastrato
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posted on 13/5/07 at 05:44 PM |
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Fireblade clutch
Hello there,
My MK Indy with the 1995 CBR 900 engine has a major problem as I have mentioned before, the clutch is slipping.
I haven't opened the clutch to see why cause I have no time at the moment, as soon my exams in the uni finished I will do it. It will be the
first DIY job on the car as I boughted already built! (It is a big moment for me!!)
I am thinking to buy a set of friction plates and springs to be prepared when I oppened it to change them if necessary.
I am very keen for the EBC friction plates (good value for money.. I think if you have something different to suggest please do so!)
I am not sure if it is better to get the kevlar ones or the standard ones. How differend are they? Will the kevlar last longer? Are they worth the
double price?
Your opinion is very importand to me cause I have no idea about this things, I am just an architecture student, so if you have any suggestions or
guidance to give you are more than welcome to do it.
I have the Haynes manual for reference, I think this would be enough ( if not I will take it to a garage...)
Thanks in advance and I appologize if my queries are boring for most experienced kit car builders and owners!
MK INDY fireblade
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Hellfire
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posted on 13/5/07 at 05:47 PM |
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Whatever you do, DON'T get the EBC frictions. They're useless. Go for OEM frictions and Barnet heavy duty springs.
Phil
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tks
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posted on 13/5/07 at 05:58 PM |
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Also if you jackup your car smart,
you won't need to empty the sump.
Also order a new gasket before you do this.
Then it should be straight forward.
p.d. you do have bike engine oil in it right?
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 13/5/07 at 06:10 PM |
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Agree with Phil, OEM Honda frictions plus Barnett heavy duty springs are a good solution.
I tried EBC Kevlar plates in my blade and they weren't actually too bad, although they don't give as good feel as Honda plates with a very
snatchy uptake making it even easier to stall.
Dont forget you'll need a new clutch cover gasket so you'll need to go to your local Honda dealer anyway. Also the inner most clutch plate
is different on most blades, with an anti-squeal shim inside a smaller surface area plate, but ditch this and put in another regular plate instead as
the anti squeal shim doesn't do much and any increase in surface area is a help.
Also you need to check your steel plates arent warped and arent too blued (overheated with an oily blue tinge to them). The latter can be reomved with
wet/dry sandpaper if its not too bad, the former can be checked with a feeler gauge by stacking them all together and looking for gaps. If they are
warped or too badly blued then they will need replacing as well.
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kastrato
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:08 PM |
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Thanks guys for the advise!!
I think I have moto oil in it ( that what the previus owner told me anyway)
I just bought the car, the first time I drove it the clutch was fine but the second start slipping so must be the plates or the springs.
I have 5l of Q8 moto oil already so I will change the oil and if still slipping then I will open the clutch to see whats going on.
Do you know a good place to get oem friction plates and the bartlet springs?
I prefer a link or a place in Huddersfield.
Also bare in ming that I am an architecture student from Greece so please use simple terms cause my english are limited and especially when people use
terms its all greek to me!!
So please can you explain this about the size of the discs cause I didn't get it...
Thanks guys!!!
MK INDY fireblade
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kastrato
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:11 PM |
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actually that is the bit Idont understand
"Dont forget you'll need a new clutch cover gasket so you'll need to go to your local Honda dealer anyway. Also the inner most
clutch plate is different on most blades, with an anti-squeal shim inside a smaller surface area plate, but ditch this and put in another regular
plate instead as the anti squeal shim doesn't do much and any increase in surface area is a help. ""
MK INDY fireblade
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:17 PM |
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OEM means original manufacturer - ie Honda. The easiest way to get hold of these is from your local Honda bike dealer, along with the gasket.
When you get given a set of clutch plates for your engine, you'll see one thats quite obviously different to the others because it has a larger
inside radius, so has less friction material on each side. This one is the one you dont want, just ask the dealer to swap it for a plate the same as
the others. Its not vitally important though so if you're not sure, just go with what the Honda dealer give you.
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kastrato
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:20 PM |
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I see...
Thanks for that and I am sorry I made you say it again!
appreciated.
I think I will supply my self with a set of oem friction plates and barnett springs.
Does anybody know how much are the oem plates?
MK INDY fireblade
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:24 PM |
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Sorry, meant to say, you can get Barnett Springs from PDQ in Slough, should be ~£10. You wont get these from the
dealer.
Honda plates are about £8-9 each I think, so you're looking at a total of ~£60-70 to replace them, plus steel plates are about the same again if
you need those.
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kastrato
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:26 PM |
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The ebc are about 47 pounds in deemon T
the barnett are about 80.
Between the barnett and the oem which ones you think is better?
MK INDY fireblade
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 13/5/07 at 07:36 PM |
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A friend had Barnett plates in his blade and they were pretty good, but I personally would stick with the OEMs unless more expensive than the Barnett
plates.
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ReMan
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posted on 13/5/07 at 08:22 PM |
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For what it's worth, as you will see from a recent thread of mine,
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=63692 , I had the same sudden onset of clutch slip problem.
The oil made no difference, so if it is car oil, dont bothre wasting your time replacing it unless you're gong to anyway, as it probably wont
help.
I have fitted EBC pads £45.00m off Ebay, so far so goo, but I'll let you know if they break soon.
I ditched the small plate and anti judder spring, it made the clutch judder , so i've put it back in, clutch feel is much
better...........
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 13/5/07 at 08:43 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by ReMan
I ditched the small plate and anti judder spring, it made the clutch judder , so i've put it back in, clutch feel is much
better...........
Interesting, never had that problem with mine and its a prety standard mod that all the RGB boys do as well as lots of people on the Yahoo list etc
over the years. Maybe the EBC plates are more sensitive to having it there, but never noticed any judder with my kevlar plates.
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gingerprince
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posted on 13/5/07 at 08:43 PM |
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i'd just put barnett springs (the blackbird uprated ones) and leave the plates for now. chances are they're fine - bikes tend not to wear
the clutch plates much due to the wet clutch. mine were fine when i swapped the springs only - measure your existing plates with a micrometer and
compare with the tolerances from the service manual (cant remember values off hand). or buy the plates too but don't change them straight away,
you have a spare set just in case - thats what i did.
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ChrisGamlin
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posted on 13/5/07 at 08:58 PM |
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New springs can sort it sometimes, but if its been slipping then it quickly cooks the friction plates and they go hard, so even if they are within
thickness tolerence, they can be shot. It all depends on how much they've slipped before you put the new springs in though.
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kastrato
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posted on 14/5/07 at 12:01 AM |
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what is clutch judder?
because of my finantial condition at the moment I would prefer if I needed only to change the springs.
I might change the oil and the springs to see what happends.
by the way it did not slipping for a long time only two small drives of 10 minutes each.
MK INDY fireblade
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ReMan
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posted on 14/5/07 at 05:31 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by kastrato
what is clutch judder?
because of my finantial condition at the moment I would prefer if I needed only to change the springs.
I might change the oil and the springs to see what happends.
by the way it did not slipping for a long time only two small drives of 10 minutes each.
With my recent experience, unless you know the condition of the plates to be good, I would'nt mess around, get a set of plates, AND springs, new
oil, sorted
It's one of the easiest jobs, no special tools 10mm socket and thats about it , should be done in a couple of hours, provided the basket is
not too burred up in which cas getting the old one's out can be "challenging".
Clutch judder.....Hmmm a sort of pulsing of the power as you take off from standstill, the clutch grabs, then releases rapidly, difficult to describe
without sounding like a knob![](/images//smilies/sad.gif) ![](/images//smilies/bigsmile.gif)
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kastrato
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posted on 15/5/07 at 01:43 AM |
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Anybody used the FERODO clutch?
it is pretty cheap..
MK INDY fireblade
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gingerprince
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posted on 15/5/07 at 12:16 PM |
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ferodo? that's got big hairy feet hasn't it?
as you say you have financial restrictions, why not buy what's been recommended then you know it'll work first time. if you buy the
ferodos and they're no good (and a search of the forum makes no reference to anyone having used ferodo clutch) then you'll only have to
buy the rest anyway...
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MOz
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posted on 15/5/07 at 02:49 PM |
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I have done this recently too....
You can't scrimp and save here. Its worth just changing the springs and oil first. I would suggest Barnett extra heavy duty springs and you
MUST use a bike specific oil. I would use a semi synthetic oil as fully synth can be thinner and not help the clutch slip. If that doesn't
work then you need to change the clutch frictions (and the steels if there are any signs of warping or blueing). you are much better off using OEM
Honda plates. As long as you haven't run it for too long there is no reason why you can't drop the oil, change the clutch and then reuse
the same oil to save cash.
You will need a new gasket too and don't forget to clean off both surfaces of old gasket and use a gasket sealant too. I forgot this the last
time I did this and wondered why the oil was leaking under pressure during a drive.
Good luck, its a frustrating problem but easily solved.
MOz
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kastrato
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posted on 15/5/07 at 04:45 PM |
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The reason I asked about ferodo is that I have no idea about bikes.
I always used to have cars and ferodo is a well known brand.
I will go for the heavy duty barnett springs and change the oil first and we will se whats follows.
I will get a new gasket too.
But I didn't understand this bit "don't forget to clean off both surfaces of old gasket and use a gasket sealant too"
Which old gasket? I will get a new one am I?
MK INDY fireblade
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