Poll: Build cost Poll [View Results]
Not Complete but Est final cost 0-2k
Not Complete but Est final cost 2-3k
Not Complete but Est final cost 3-4k
Not Complete but Est final cost 4-6k
Not Complete but Est final cost 6k+
Completed, cost known 0-2k
Completed, cost known 2-3k
Completed, cost known 3-4k
Completed, cost known 4-6k
Completed, cost known 6k+



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Author: Subject: Build cost Poll
Peteff

posted on 12/4/04 at 12:36 PM Reply With Quote
Mine was under £2k. £1500 before sva, insurance and rent so about £1800 altogether. Understanding scrapyard and £35 donor help a lot.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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pbura

posted on 12/4/04 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
There seems to be a high nickel-and-dime factor for stuff like coatings, sealants, fasteners, rod ends, and the odd shop job like propshaft, laser cuts, etc., that all add up to a lot

I'm not doing anything fancy for engine tuning, fuel intake, brakes, gauges, seats, and so on, but I'll betcha it will still wind up about $5,000, or £2,800 in old money.

A big ticket for the rotary engine is the exhaust. Replacing the stock exhaust costs about $2,000, but I hope to do a NICE custom one for about $1,000.

[Edited on 12/4/04 by pbura]





Pete

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craig1410

posted on 12/4/04 at 01:23 PM Reply With Quote
I'm pretty confident I can finish it for around the £3k mark and I think I could have got that to closer to the £2k mark if I'd been a bit less inclined to just buy stuff that was going to cause me hassles finding second hand. Also, it would have been both cheaper and quicker if I'd stuck to a standard width chassis and some sort of Ford engine.

My main cost elements have so far been:
Bodywork £365
Seats £320
Engine £200
Spring Units £220
Exhaust silencers £140
Gearbox £140
Harnesses £80
Various Steel bits £150 ish

I don't count tools unless they are specific to the Locost build and I've not counted welding consumables as I am using CO2 pub gas and have only used one and a half rolls of mig wire plus a few nozzles etc. I started the build on March 1st 2003 and hope to get it on the road before the end of this year (ideally by October)

Better get back to the garage then...
Craig.

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derf

posted on 12/4/04 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
I dont believe that to redo the exhaust yourslef will cost you that much. MazdaTrix or RX7.com sell the exaust flange for $34 US, buy another pair of flanges for the header to cat, and another one from cat to muffler. The flanges I was looking at were $15 a piece, plus the gasket was 5, a high flow cat will be another $65, add a muffler, depending on what you want add $100, plus another $100 for piping with bends and straight pipes etc... Total for a custom rotary exaust is $379, including headers.

That is also high pricing everything except the flanges. The muffler I want is a $55 flowmaster, and I dont expect the exaust tubing to be more than $50, especially If I buy straight pipe, and just have it bent, plus I really am thinking hard about Chroming it just for the bling factor.

I dont know what you want, but it could be a $1000 titanium motorcycle can I dunno. I expect to pay roughly

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pbura

posted on 12/4/04 at 08:45 PM Reply With Quote
I'm figuring $100 for a DIY header, $250 for a good catalyst (gotta have one ), $175 for a dual-tube muffler with 3" inlet from a rod shop, $100 for RPM-activated switch and pump to activate auxiliary intake ports, the balance for pipes, hangers, heat shielding.

Everything in 304 stainless except the header, which can be mild. If there's room, I'll have it coated, elsewise will paint.

I'd like it to work good, sound good, look good, and last forever. Hopefully, I'll be able to afford it. Funny how all the $$ seem to kick in at the end

Really the only high-quality splurge I have in mind.


Edit: Oops, forgot to mention the pre-silencer.

[Edited on 12/4/04 by pbura]





Pete

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derf

posted on 12/4/04 at 10:58 PM Reply With Quote
Here I found it even cheaper, and nice and thick stuff too:

1x
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=16183

1x
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=16189web

4x
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=16195.3


I plan to buy 2 of the U bends, just in case, but you only really need 1, then join them after the bend, buy a nice quality 2-1 collector, flange, cat, flange, muffler, tip, simple as that

plus you can pivk up a nice high flow cat for $65

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kingr

posted on 12/4/04 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
I think I probably paid around £300 for all the bends (in 316 - they're never gonna rust ), collector and link pipe (in 304, they're unlikely to rust in a hurry, provided I don't contaminate them) and end can (in titanium, again, never gonna rust provided I don't contaminate it and oh boy was it great fun welding it ) and then probably another £100 maybe more to get it all polished (dunno what the going rate for this kinda thing is), so I'm looking at £400 or more just for the exhaust, and that's with me doing most of the hard work, plus the tig welder that I bought with the exhaust system in mind was another £400! I think it looks pretty cool, plus it's all pretty accurately balanced lengths, so I guess I shouldn't complain.

Every single other component of the car seems to go well over the £250 mark to do the whole thing. Ah well, I never set a budget and I don't intend to now, it costs what it costs to do it the way I want to. I haven't kept a record of the cost, and frankly I thing I'm glad of that in a way. The closest guess I can give is that including probably £2000 or more on tools the car will cost around £10000, but I honestly couldn't say if it were more or less. Think about it like this though, what else could I get for that, a brand new very mediocre hatchback, and then I'd have to pay triple the price for insurance, no thanks.

I tend to think that if something costs less per hour of enjoyment than I get paid, it's pretty good value, and I'd say I probably achieve that just for the build, I find it occasionally frustrating but for the most part very satisfying, and there's not much I'd prefer to be doing.

Kingr

P.s. If anyone wants to see what my exhaust primaries and collector look like there's pictures in the thread call "kingr's been busy"

[Edited on 12/4/04 by kingr]

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pbura

posted on 13/4/04 at 02:11 AM Reply With Quote
It seems like everybody has certain things that they want to be just so. I get a lot of enjoyment out of looking at other builds and seeing what people have done that makes their cars unique.

I know that I'm OTT in a couple of areas, but I'm enjoying myself.

If I can get the results I want on the cheap, I will. Heck, I was prepared to shell out $700 for coilovers if I had to, but the revised budget of $100 is just fine

[Edited on 13/4/04 by pbura]





Pete

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derf

posted on 13/4/04 at 03:24 AM Reply With Quote
I agree with you kingr, I just spent the better part of 5 hours doing a 1 hour job, and had a blast every second. I figure if I went to a movie it would have cost me $30 for tickets, plus another $20 for popcorn and soda, instead i spent $500 on a donor car, already made 1/2 back so I spent $250 for 5 hurs, plus I still need to do the motor and tranny mounts, I'm guessing it's gonna be 10 more hours to get the motor into the chassis and completely welded in. At 2 hours a movie, over 16 hours thats 8 movies, 8 movies x $50 each, thats $400 worth of movies, the donor car end cost is $250, so i just saved myself $150 in entertainment value
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