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Author: Subject: Striker alloy uprights chewed up
martinnitram

posted on 14/9/17 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
Striker alloy uprights chewed up

Just had a shock while tightening wheel bearings up, wondered why the wheel still had movement after I had tightened the bearings, the axle was loose in the upright, solved by nipping it up from behind - so I thought till I undid it for a proper look.

It had been clanking around loose before judging by the thread lock on the bolt ( someone else's bodge), the axle has gouged the face and the internal bore of the upright so that the axle wont fit snug inside, just wobbles about, if it wasn't for the metal of the mudguard acting as a washer I'm sure the bolt would have pulled through the up right altogether.

Only had this striker a few weeks and was hoping to have a play about before I start pulling it to bits, but I think a full nut and bolt check is in order before I go out again.

I'm going to ring Raw and see if they have this part in stock tomorrow.

Anyone had a similar experience with these alloy parts or is this just bad luck

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loggyboy

posted on 14/9/17 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
What uprights are they?






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bi22le

posted on 14/9/17 at 09:39 PM Reply With Quote
Not with alloy uprights but my hubs will need replacing soon. It seems that the attraction of aluminium for suppliers of to much and they ship shit from China made from low grade.

Any aluminium part that has a mating face with steel is at risk. For you it's send the bearing face, for me it was the splined wheel studs.

It's hard to take a wheel off when the stud just decides to spin with the nut. . . .





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martinnitram

posted on 14/9/17 at 09:46 PM Reply With Quote
Just done a bit of snooping, they appear to be made by raceleda - now out of business, the kit on the front of mine looks to have cost over 800.
http://home2.btconnect.com/rawstrikernorth/raceleda.html

Cant say I'm over impressed with it all, it looks snazzy but I never trust alloy on steering components.
The drivers side all looks in good order.

Just hope I can get the upright or ill be stripping it off and putting the sierra bits on, which are probably better quality.

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martinnitram

posted on 14/9/17 at 10:01 PM Reply With Quote
Oh dear, they don't sound very good

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=94094

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loggyboy

posted on 14/9/17 at 10:15 PM Reply With Quote
Thought as much. AFAIK raw only offer Sierra or capri uprights from factory.






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Paul_Arion

posted on 15/9/17 at 06:01 AM Reply With Quote
Yikes not good - I've heard of problems with the Raceleda uprights a few times over the years though.

Cortina geometry so personally I'd look at a direct swap to original Cortina steel uprights - which I think from memory are actually lighter than the alloy Raceleda items?? Lot cheaper too

Hope you get it sorted today anyway

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martinnitram

posted on 15/9/17 at 07:08 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Not with alloy uprights but my hubs will need replacing soon. It seems that the attraction of aluminium for suppliers of to much and they ship poo from China made from low grade.

Any aluminium part that has a mating face with steel is at risk. For you it's send the bearing face, for me it was the splined wheel studs.

It's hard to take a wheel off when the stud just decides to spin with the nut. . . .


Sounds like an enjoyable experience !

At first I was impressed seeing all the bling silver and gold alloy bits on mine, gave the impression that the builder had put some effort in - which he had - 10 years ago, buy its true what you say, alloy and steel don't mix.

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martinnitram

posted on 15/9/17 at 07:14 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Paul_Arion
Yikes not good - I've heard of problems with the Raceleda uprights a few times over the years though.

Cortina geometry so personally I'd look at a direct swap to original Cortina steel uprights - which I think from memory are actually lighter than the alloy Raceleda items?? Lot cheaper too

Hope you get it sorted today anyway



Yes I do thanks,

I heard Cortina mentioned as replacements, but on the striker build manual it uses sierra uprights, discs and calipers.
I'm still deciding whether to take all the raceleda kit off and put the sierra/Cortina kit on instead.
Don't know if I can keep my wilwood calipers and discs or use the full sierra/Cortina uprights, caliper and discs as one unit.

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Paul_Arion

posted on 15/9/17 at 07:19 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by martinnitram

I heard Cortina mentioned as replacements, but on the striker build manual it uses sierra uprights, discs and calipers.
I'm still deciding whether to take all the raceleda kit off and put the sierra/Cortina kit on instead.
Don't know if I can keep my wilwood calipers and discs or use the full sierra/Cortina uprights, caliper and discs as one unit.


Sierra and Cortina use different geometry so might need more than just uprights. As far as i'm aware - modified Cortina uprights should be a straight swap out for the Raceleda items - swap over the Wilwood brakes and aluminium hubs. Quick call to the factory (or another owner confirming) should clear it up - but i'm sure Martin told me that Cortina items could be used still earlier this year (i looked at the Striker before deciding on the Arion)

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peter030371

posted on 15/9/17 at 07:51 AM Reply With Quote
No idea how good these are but they have been selling them for about 10 years so can't be that bad can they?

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=13 75_1594_1595&products_id=11815

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ayh20

posted on 15/9/17 at 11:12 AM Reply With Quote
The Rally Design ones are the same (or replicas of) the original Raceleda's.

I have these and these seem to be holding up OK for me. But i have had a wheel vibration that I've never managed to solve... so i suspect that a complete strip down is in their near future.





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peter030371

posted on 15/9/17 at 11:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by martinnitram
Just had a shock while tightening wheel bearings up, wondered why the wheel still had movement after I had tightened the bearings, the axle was loose in the upright, solved by nipping it up from behind - so I thought till I undid it for a proper look.

It had been clanking around loose before judging by the thread lock on the bolt ( someone else's bodge), the axle has gouged the face and the internal bore of the upright so that the axle wont fit snug inside, just wobbles about, if it wasn't for the metal of the mudguard acting as a washer I'm sure the bolt would have pulled through the up right altogether.

Only had this striker a few weeks and was hoping to have a play about before I start pulling it to bits, but I think a full nut and bolt check is in order before I go out again.

I'm going to ring Raw and see if they have this part in stock tomorrow.

Anyone had a similar experience with these alloy parts or is this just bad luck


Can you post some pictures to help others see what they need to check?

I know some used to suffer from steering arm failure but RD changed to a drop forged arm which apparently solved the issues there.

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martinnitram

posted on 15/9/17 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
http://www.striker-cars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/StrikerManual.pdf

Here are some photos
https://www.facebook.com/raw.striker.12

This is the upright in question, if I could find one to replace it that would save a load of work, the rally design look similar but cant tell what top ball joint it uses, ideally I like an identical one to just drop in, but don't think theres much chance.

If I cant get a replacement ill look at replacing with sierra front uprights but the top ball joint looks different to mine in the manual above, page 10 onwards.

Can anybody figure out what would directly fit in place of my uprights, it would be nice to find some uprights that can accept my wildwood calipers and existing hubs to save expense, but if need be ill replace the lot.

Cheers

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mark chandler

posted on 16/9/17 at 07:40 AM Reply With Quote
They look well made, rather than a little washer and nut on the back it needs a big top hat style washer that extends out to the wall of the hole.

If they were mine I would machine and sleeve the chewed hole and make the above for a robust fitting.

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peter030371

posted on 16/9/17 at 10:52 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by martinnitram
http://www.striker-cars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/StrikerManual.pdf

Here are some photos
https://www.facebook.com/raw.striker.12

This is the upright in question, if I could find one to replace it that would save a load of work, the rally design look similar but cant tell what top ball joint it uses, ideally I like an identical one to just drop in, but don't think theres much chance.

If I cant get a replacement ill look at replacing with sierra front uprights but the top ball joint looks different to mine in the manual above, page 10 onwards.

Can anybody figure out what would directly fit in place of my uprights, it would be nice to find some uprights that can accept my wildwood calipers and existing hubs to save expense, but if need be ill replace the lot.

Cheers


They look very similar to me, give Rally Design a call and ask them. I would also replace the pair not just one....if one is failing how long before the other starts to do the same thing

It also looks like you have the welded steering arms which are also a known weak point....a new kit will replace these with the stronger forged parts

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obfripper

posted on 16/9/17 at 12:02 PM Reply With Quote
Those look like escort geometry uprights, raw can make those if you can get some mk2 escort uprights as donor items.
There are 3 versions of the mk2 upright, the drum brake 1100(you don't want this), disc 1300/1600 and rs1800/2000/capri, the rs ones have bolt on steering arms and a 20mm higher stub axle pin, which places the car 20mm lower on its wheels.
I dont know which variant your upright geometry is based upon, but the bolt on arms indicate it is probably rs, also the wheel bearings and hubs are slightly bigger on the rs version - this will help you id yours.
Rs front bearings:
Outer bearing OD 57mm, ID 29mm, width 20mm.
Inner bearing OD 45mm, ID 19mm, width 16.5mm.

Raw may also be able to supply an updated version of the alloy uprights you have that have the mentioned modifications.

For weight comparision, the cut down escort based uprights are about 3kg each with wing stays.

Dave

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obfripper

posted on 16/9/17 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
Also rally design were replacing those steering arms for free due to known failures (it's implied that the raceleda ones were covered by this), have a look here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=139745

Failed arm:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/http://s12.photobucket.com/user/hypersonik/media/Westfield/DSC_5433_zps265482f1.jpg.html

There's a pic of an escort geometry raceleda upright in this thread:
http://www.rgb-racing.org.uk/rgbbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1126&start=10

Dave

ETA
Here's the vosa recall for the steering arms:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u9btmzis5rav4nu/Screenshot_2017-09-16-15-02-21.png?dl=0

[Edited on 16/9/17 by obfripper]

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martinnitram

posted on 16/9/17 at 06:59 PM Reply With Quote
Many thanks, some good info.

I have emailed rally design and put the photos in for them to look at, and see what they come back with.

I'm going to re read what's been said above a few more times to soak it in as I'm now not sure if I've got escort, cortina or Sierra.

This Raceleda stuff has got a iffy reputation from what I've heard on here and elsewhere on the net, but before I change anything I want to establish what I have.

Thanks all for info so far

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martinnitram

posted on 17/9/17 at 03:30 PM Reply With Quote
I ve emailed rally design and siltech racing with a description and photos and see what comes back.

I'm going to replace both uprights and the steering arms since both parts have a bad rep.
Plan to keep my wilwoods and adaptor plates, but will take advise from either company on the best route.

For the time ive given up on replacing the front end with ford components since its going to involve replacing uprights discs hubs calipers etc and will probably end up costing more for old parts than just replacing what I have with new.
Plus ive been told my uprights are either sierra, Cortina or escort !, I don't pretend to know what they are and I'm now more confused than when I started !

While this is happening ill carry on with replacing my master cylinder with the fiat unit ive bought.

Looking at these raceleda uprights in more detail, the body of the unit looks fairly robust, but the way the axle fits into the upright with a peg and a bolt and washer is pretty flimsy, you knuckle your wheel on with 4 x big nuts done up with a 2' bar and then the whole unit, wheel , disc hub and caliper is held in place by one bolt doesn't seem enough to me.

The wheel had got 2" of play in it when I noticed it, been out for a run to bed the brakes back in and had been pushing on a bit, the axle had ovaled the upright from moving and was ready for coming out.
Makes me shudder thinking about it.

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procomp

posted on 17/9/17 at 06:35 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

What you have is MK2 Escort geometry Raceleda uprights.

don't replace with same, simply get genuine Ford escort uprights and send them to Raw for mods and fit them. Cortina and Sierra geometry will not fit with your current chassis / wishbones.

It has been proved time and time again that Alloy uprights that have enough strength to pass testing are heavier that the original fitment IE Westfields cortina units which passed German TUV approval.

I personally refuse point blank to work or setup cars equipped with racleda uprights fitted.

Cheers Matt

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martinnitram

posted on 20/9/17 at 07:09 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi

What you have is MK2 Escort geometry Raceleda uprights.

don't replace with same, simply get genuine Ford escort uprights and send them to Raw for mods and fit them. Cortina and Sierra geometry will not fit with your current chassis / wishbones.

It has been proved time and time again that Alloy uprights that have enough strength to pass testing are heavier that the original fitment IE Westfields cortina units which passed German TUV approval.

I personally refuse point blank to work or setup cars equipped with racleda uprights fitted.

Cheers Matt


Cheers for info Matt.

How can I check these are escort geometry, is there measurements I can take to confirm ?

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martinnitram

posted on 20/9/17 at 07:14 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
Also rally design were replacing those steering arms for free due to known failures (it's implied that the raceleda ones were covered by this), have a look here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=139745

Failed arm:
http://photobucket.com/gallery/http://s12.photobucket.com/user/hypersonik/media/Westfield/DSC_5433_zps265482f1.jpg.html

There's a pic of an escort geometry raceleda upright in this thread:
http://www.rgb-racing.org.uk/rgbbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1126&start=10

Dave

ETA
Here's the vosa recall for the steering arms:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u9btmzis5rav4nu/Screenshot_2017-09-16-15-02-21.png?dl=0

[Edited on 16/9/17 by obfripper]


Thanks, the escort raceleda in the picture looks different to mine, the axle looks like its positioned lower.
Top ball joint looks the same mind.

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