Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 07:19 PM |
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Pinto Out - Can you please cast an eye over these photos
Hi,
Got the Pinto engine out earlier today to try and rectify this inoperative clutch problem (it has never worked since I bought the car, I was told it
had had a new clutch fitted but it wasn't done correctly. The clutch would dip but gears were not selectable and the clutch arm moved only a
short distance of circa 10mm).
Anyway, could someone cast an eye over a couple of photos of the clutch and bearing to see if there is anything that jumps out as being
problematic.
I am going to try and make a centralising tool so I can see if this is off center and if so by how much (I will post any other photos later).
One thing I did notice (though I couldn't be 100% that I didn't do it during the wrestling match of splitting the engine and gearbox), is
that one of the release bearing retaining clips has the tag missing.
Are they easily available to buy?
EDIT: I forgot to mention, the guide sleeve/bearing didnt actually move that freely. There is no sign of any grease, should there be?
Piccies below, thanks in advance for any help / info.
[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]
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Peteff
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 07:24 PM |
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Check that the friction plate is in the right way round. The nose should be away from the flywheel and the gearbox shaft engages it and I can't
see it in your picture.
[Edited on 18/5/10 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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alexg1965
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 07:31 PM |
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It looks to me from the first picture that the small lugs on the release bearing have broken off. They locate the bearing on the clutch arm but how
that relates to your symptoms, not sure. Maybe the bearing is fouling on the arm restricting its movement.
They're about £13 on Ebay or Ford dealers may still have them.
Cheers
Alex
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jimmyd
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 07:33 PM |
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Ok I'm no expert but I'll share my thoughts. I hope you checked the cable operation before you stripped, was the fork being pulling in
correctly? The problem with a cutch being misaligned is generally the fact the input shaft on the gearbox doesn't line up when you try fitting
the box to the engine, I don't think this is your problem. If that's a new clutch kit it looks like it's been sitting in the damp
for some time, has the springs seized? Finally check that this is the correct clutch kit for this engine.
J
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rallyingden
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 07:36 PM |
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I agree with Peteff that plate looks like it's the wrong way round. The lug on the relese bearing will not cause the trouble you are
expieriencing.
RD
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omega0684
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 07:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Check that the friction plate is in the right way round. The nose should be away from the flywheel and the gearbox shaft engages it and I can't
see it in your picture.
[Edited on 18/5/10 by Peteff]
the drive plate can only go on one way otherwise the pressure plate doesn't fit properly and cannot be bolted to the flywheel correctly.
definately looks a bit squ-iff from the photos. i believe that is an old style thrust bearing. the newer ones have tabs on the side that clip into
the clutch release arm. they are available from burton,
HERE(top one)
make sure that the release bearing and the clutch arm have free movement on the input shaft of the gearbox to, smear some lithium grease on it should
do the trick.
HTH's
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:04 PM |
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Hi,
Thanks for all the replies but I am now a bit lost as to what looks the likely cause.
Are you saying it can't be the friction plate on the wrong way as it wouldn't have all bolted together?
Is the same true for my concern about the alignment being off centre? (ie wouldn't it have all gone together if this was the fault?)
If its not the friction plate and not the spindle off centre what could it be?
(the clutch has been stood for circa 5 years, it has never been driven with)
What can I do to minimize the chance of putting it back together still inoperative?
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE INPUT.
[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]
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alexg1965
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:10 PM |
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In my experience, if it was misaligned the gearbox wouldn't have bolted onto the engine in the first place so I doubt it's that.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:12 PM |
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Take the cover off and have a look.
It will be marked on the friction plate which way round it should be.
I think Alex is right though, only from vague memory though.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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snapper
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:12 PM |
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I wonder if the clutch release arm came off the peg in the bell housing, this could explain the off center release bearing pattern when the clutch
cable pulls but there is no pivot at the other end of the release arm
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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grub
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:23 PM |
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yeh clutch plate wrong way round
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:35 PM |
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Hi,
Thanks again for the further replies. I will go take a look shortly.
Just another mention (don't know if it's correct or not), the other day when I pressed the clutch pedal, the movement on the clutch lever
arm was circa 10mm. I have tried it just without anything connected and the cable travels 34mm.
Does that outline anything?
THANKS AGAIN.
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 08:47 PM |
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Hi,
The friction plate is marked "flywheel side". This is facing towards the engine, against the flywheel (away from the gearbox), which I
presume is correct, as it is the only way it can go.
Thanks for the continued input.
[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 09:11 PM |
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"The clutch would dip but gears were not selectable and the clutch arm moved only a short distance of circa 10mm). "
Have you got the standard Sierra pedals? If so you can get different coloured (and sized) quadrants for the top of the pedal, giving you more clutch
arm movement for the same pedal travel.
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yamapinto
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 09:36 PM |
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You say that the clutch cable moves 34mm yet the clutch arm only moves 10 mm have you taken all the slack out of the cable or is something binding
somewere
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 09:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by yamapinto
You say that the clutch cable moves 34mm yet the clutch arm only moves 10 mm have you taken all the slack out of the cable or is something binding
somewere
Hi,
That was when the engine was in place. Since removing it earlier I tested the travel of the cable without having it connected to anything.
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yamapinto
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 09:48 PM |
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Hi but did the pedel travel right to the floor with the engine in or did it feel to jam ?
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 09:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by yamapinto
Hi but did the pedel travel right to the floor with the engine in or did it feel to jam ?
Hi,
I couldn't say with 100% certainty that it travelled to the floor. It felt like it did, I did notice when I had the missus sit in the car and
depress the clutch there did seem to be a lot of strain in the cable with it really flexing.
[Edited on 18/5/10 by Tipster69]
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yamapinto
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 10:00 PM |
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It's possible your clutch cable is too tight and all the movement is already taken up but unfortunatly you will only be able to try this with
it all built up again sorry I can't give you a better reply but good luck
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 10:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by yamapinto
It's possible your clutch cable is too tight and all the movement is already taken up but unfortunatly you will only be able to try this with
it all built up again sorry I can't give you a better reply but good luck
Many thanks for the input.
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Tipster69
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| posted on 18/5/10 at 10:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
"The clutch would dip but gears were not selectable and the clutch arm moved only a short distance of circa 10mm). "
Have you got the standard Sierra pedals? If so you can get different coloured (and sized) quadrants for the top of the pedal, giving you more clutch
arm movement for the same pedal travel.
Hi,
I am unsure what pedals they are and have locked up for the night. I will take a look in the morning.
CHEERS
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locobri
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| posted on 19/5/10 at 07:37 AM |
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I had a similar problem when fitting a type 9 to my crossflow, I managed to borrow another clutch set and it worked all I can think was the release
springs had weakened or something along those lines had happened. Link to thread.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=93012
[Edited on 19/5/10 by locobri]
[Edited on 19/5/10 by locobri]
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Tipster69
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| posted on 19/5/10 at 02:48 PM |
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Hi,
THANKS to all the contributors and PM`s.
Clutch now operative and tested "round and round and round and round............my drive" 
CHEERS
[Edited on 19/5/10 by Tipster69]
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pmc_3
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| posted on 24/5/10 at 06:52 PM |
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Nice one  What was the end solution?
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deano 777
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| posted on 8/6/10 at 08:49 PM |
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dont leave us in suspense, what was the cure?
There are no problems, only challenges!
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