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Author: Subject: Turbo-ing my MX5 Mk1...
BigLee

posted on 1/3/12 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by welderman
quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
quote:
Originally posted by RK
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/T3-T4-Hybrid-Turbo-Charger-50-A-R-T04E-T3-T4-STAGE-3-RSX-K20-RB25-Miata-HP-450-/220960616298?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessor ies&hash=item3372476f6a


Yeah thanks Rich... Can't exactly just nip down the road and pick that up could I? What do some people think...

Oh, hang on a min... If only I knew a very friendly guy that could pop that into the post for me

Hmmm, you and Big Lee have got me thinking!!!
Think I might have to nip over to yours at some point Lee!



We could go for a cup of teaat Lee's, if you pop by here first


The kettle is always on. I'll even get the fine china out Joe as I know you like that!

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welderman

posted on 1/3/12 at 05:29 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers me ole china





Thank's, Joe

I don't stalk people


http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301

Back on with the Fisher Fury R1

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Steve Hignett

posted on 2/3/12 at 08:39 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Waitey
I built a 250ish bhp MX-5 BBR turbo.

To do a reasonable job of a DIY turbo you'll need to spend about £2k for a good amount of power.

180bhp can be had for sub £1k.


Not sure you read all of my OP, but just to summarise - I am wanting to do this as a budget project. The increase in power is just a very welcome bonus...

So, if you could describe for me how to get to 180bhp for sub £1k from your experiences, I am all ears (well, eyes I guess!)

Cheers!

Oh, and yes Lee - We'll be up your way for a brew sometime in the next few weeks...

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Waitey

posted on 2/3/12 at 11:06 AM Reply With Quote
Mapping and ECU ar ethe biggest cost, personally I wouldn't scrimp on these, but if you want cheap then cheap it will be.

330cc supra injectors - £80
Used T25 from a 200sx - £80
Cast Corksport manifold - £120
Custom down pipe - £100
Intercooler and piping - £170
Sensors and Wideband O2 - £200
Hoses and fittings - £50
Clutch - £200
Used E manage or similar - £200
Mapping - Download standard map 8psi for free....

So £1200 will get you a reliable 190-200bhp.

You could afford to lose the intercooler and things like a wideband O2, if you were really being cheap!

From then on you are only bigger injectors and some more mapping away from 250bhp. (About £500ish)





305bhp All Steel Duratec Westie

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franky

posted on 2/3/12 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
If it costs £1-1.5k would you not be better off getting a leggy s2000 or a cat D one?
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D Beddows

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:01 PM Reply With Quote
I think you could get a reliable 150-160 for a good 4 to 500 quid less than that (especially if you fabricate things and shop around a bit rather than just buying new) which is equal to about 50bhp (and lots of torques) for under £700..........HUGE value for money in engine tuning terms!
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Waitey

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by franky
If it costs £1-1.5k would you not be better off getting a leggy s2000 or a cat D one?


TBF for £3k if wanted another track car i'd get a E36 M3





305bhp All Steel Duratec Westie

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MikeRJ

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:13 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by franky
If it costs £1-1.5k would you not be better off getting a leggy s2000 or a cat D one?


Can you actually get an S2000 for that sort of money? I'd be amazed if this was possible, I thought they held their money quite well?

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RK

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:15 PM Reply With Quote
Not having first hand experience, but watching a few others, I have concluded that getting more power from an MX5 is like trying to make a silk purse from a sow's ear. It costs, and often blows up, and costs more. Just a very casual observer's opinion of course. No cheap S2000's around then??
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Waitey

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by D Beddows
I think you could get a reliable 150-160 for a good 4 to 500 quid less than that (especially if you fabricate things and shop around a bit rather than just buying new) which is equal to about 50bhp (and lots of torques) for under £700..........HUGE value for money in engine tuning terms!


Hardly anything in my list was actually new!

You could scrimp on the clutch (the OE clutch will take about 160bhp), and fab a down pipe yourself, sod the intercooler and use some crap ignition retard thing and give the injectors a miss(I've seen some people using OE injectors up to 160bhp, but we are talking 97% duty cycles while on boost! sod that).

Doing 150bhp could probably be done for £500-600. But. Once you've done that, you'll want more, so spending the money first off helps a lot.

My BBR went from 150bhp, to 180bhp, to 200bhp, to 230bhp and finally 250bhp. It'd have been a damn site cheaper just to go for the 200bhp set up first as that's basically the same as the one you'll use for 250bhp. Its only 300bhp plus do things get a bit tricky (750cc injectors and a nice shiny GT28), although my friend is running 320bhp on the OE bottom end and it hasn't died yet.





305bhp All Steel Duratec Westie

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Waitey

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by franky
If it costs £1-1.5k would you not be better off getting a leggy s2000 or a cat D one?


Can you actually get an S2000 for that sort of money? I'd be amazed if this was possible, I thought they held their money quite well?


That was I was thinking, an ok MX5 1.8 is about £500-£1000 now, £1000 on FI makes it a cheap fun car.

Dogged S2000's are still around the £2600-£3000 mark, and then you are into E36 M3 money.





305bhp All Steel Duratec Westie

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D Beddows

posted on 2/3/12 at 01:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Hardly anything in my list was actually new! You could scrimp on the clutch (the OE clutch will take about 160bhp), and fab a down pipe yourself, sod the intercooler and use some crap ignition retard thing and give the injectors a miss(I've seen some people using OE injectors up to 160bhp, but we are talking 97% duty cycles while on boost! sod that). Doing 150bhp could probably be done for £500-600. But. Once you've done that, you'll want more, so spending the money first off helps a lot.




Yeah I understand that but conversely you could get 150bhp ish for about £700 by buying the parts that will be good enough for more just not all off them and shopping around/being patient for some of the rest the clutch (depending on condition obviously) should be alright for 150 as you say, I bought a fully functioning megasquirt for £160 after trawling the internet for a good few months as an example of being patient and having looked into it I reckon you could knock a good few quid off £170 for the intercooler and pipework as an example of shopping around....

I'm not saying you're wrong and if you wanted to do it in the next month say it would almost certainly cost more! patience is a virtue though for the currently more financially challenged among us like me and Steve

[Edited on 2/3/12 by D Beddows]

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pewe

posted on 6/3/12 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
So far there has been no mention as to whether the standard 1.6 diff and drive shafts are man enough for increased power.
There is opinion that you need to swap these for 1.8 items - the ones with push-in driveshafts and preferably a slippy diff.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10

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Waitey

posted on 6/3/12 at 01:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pewe
So far there has been no mention as to whether the standard 1.6 diff and drive shafts are man enough for increased power.
There is opinion that you need to swap these for 1.8 items - the ones with push-in driveshafts and preferably a slippy diff.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10


My 1.6 open diff and drive shafts lasted for 103k miles of turbo charged driving. So about 90k at 150bhp, and they were still fine when I sold it on 103k with 250bhp. So they do cope fairly well.

The 1.8 TorSen diff is probably the best option, but they are £300 ish and a replacement 1.6 open diff is £10 haha.





305bhp All Steel Duratec Westie

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RDelacourt

posted on 15/4/13 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Lots of bits needed - have a look at this wiki. Of the top of my head a very basic install will need:

Turbocharger with wastegate and suitable actuator.
Exhaust manifold suitable for turbo.
Exhaust downpipe
Gaskets for above.
Oil and coolant pipes for turbo + pipe clips.
Possibly an oil restrictor for the turbo.
Adapters to tap into oil supply (either from oil pressure switch or filter sandwich plate).
Modified sump for oil return.
Inlet pipes and flexible hose + suitable hose clamps.
Intercooler.
Rising rate Fuel pressure regulator (for the cheap and nasty way of increasing fuelling with boost)
Ignition retarder (or just retard static timing and get poor mileage and off-boost performance).
An "O2 Clamp" to prevent the ECU trying to cut back the fuelling as boost rises.

Wideband AFR sensor and display. Probably the most important part unless you like extra low compression pistons..

Ideally you want either an aftermarket ECU or some kind of piggy back system so you can accurately control fuel and ignition, but this will push the cost up.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------

Where can i find an ignition retarder?

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