Dick Bear
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 05:59 AM |
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Hey guys thanks for all the suggestions and your pointing out (from experiences) of several precautions along the way. Fortunately the build is still
in the 2-D mode with the details of fabrication still ahead.
Raze the engine was to scale. With an audi transaxle the unit comes in at around 51 inches front to back. I have a Passat/Audi trany coming to the
shop later this week and am hoping that I will be able to reduce the OA length to around 48 inches if what I've been told is true.
The lamo door illustration was an excersize in midnite bordem that has promise both aesthetically and functionally however there's been nothing
specifically designed for the perimeter door shape. Thanks for the heads up however, those seemingly insignificant particulars are important and
appreciated.
Head-lite fixtures are on the top of my to do list as I had the same issues several have mentioned while building the McBearen. I'm resourcing
fixtures from your source, Steve.
With Daytona (08 NASCAR season start) just a few weeks away I've been, and am currently, smashed with sponsorship activity work and although my
time is taken with that my mind is on the Bruin.
Thanks for your interest and thoughts!
Dick Bear
www.marketpointproductions.com
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Delinquent
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| posted on 17/1/08 at 11:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dick Bear
The lamo door illustration was an excersize in midnite bordem that has promise both aesthetically and functionally however there's been nothing
specifically designed for the perimeter door shape.
A deeper sill helps immensely with lambo doors - the biggest problem with aftermarket hinges is that the pivot point means the door still tends to
obscure 50% or more of the opening! shallow doors reduce this, as does keeping the hinge arc as long as possible so the door can go "over the
top"
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airframefixer
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| posted on 19/1/08 at 01:07 AM |
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Dick
Congrats on finishing your McBearen build and best of luck with the new project.
Just curious on the construction technique for your build. Welded or riveted?
Also Id like to offer some positive constructive feedback on your choice of chassis type. By all means I do not believe an aluminum tub is beyond the
capabilities of the average locoster with the right tools and materials. Im more than confident that your craftsmanship and attention to detail is
well above whats required to build a tub. But I think that a tub is not the best choice due to styling of your car. Your probably aware, but tubs rely
on large and high boxed sills for rigidity. With scissor doors in combination of a shallow floor, I think that a backbone chassis would offer better
performance for your design. Im all for a riveted aluminum backbone.
Andrew
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sgraber
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| posted on 19/1/08 at 03:18 AM |
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I think a continuous folded aluminum chassis/pan with a large central box for main structure and smaller outer boxed sills to clear your door design
would do the trick. The tubular steel front and rear sub-assemblies should bolt onto something substantial, so you should create cnc machined front
and rear firewalls and have them TIG welded to each end of the folded pan. Then accept the tubular front and rear assemblies with strong bolts through
the firewalls. The tubular sections act as crumple zones.
Just a thought.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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Dick Bear
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| posted on 19/1/08 at 11:22 AM |
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Steve and Andrew I think we are all looking at the same solutions to the issues relating to lower door sills and a combination of tube and tub. I
have planned to hyper- structure the center (backbone) of the tub as that will be primary to the structure. The door sills will be as high as
possible to augment the center.
The aluminum panels forming the tub will be fastened using a combination of weld and adhesive/rivets. I was planning on a "CNC" rear fire
wall just as Steve described with the rear tube structure bolted to the firewall. I hadn't considered the front firewall option because I felt
that I could incorporate the suspension connect points transversely within the tub system using extrusions (square tubes) for each point of
connection. The radiator support will probably be steel bolted to the front of the tub and that frontal tubular system will provide the
"crunch" zone for the front.
I hope this explains better my thoughts for the tub/frame combination. Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.
On another note. I just got the Passat transaxle in today and the overall length of the unit is only 24- inches. Adding that to the
"fanless" engine length of 23-inches results in an overall length of just 47-inches. Of course I will have to fabricate the adaptor plate
and that will add an inch or two but the 47 - 49" OA is playing perfectly into my plans at this point. I plan to lay it all out in a scaled
drawing this weekend to see how these primary components come together.
Dick Bear
www.marketpointproductions.com
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