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Author: Subject: How much is a Hayabusa engine?
iiyama

posted on 5/9/06 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
well I have seen some dry sump systems with hoses held on by hose clamps. The TTS one for a start. However I was looking at this......

http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n251/vm1451/?action=view&current=image416.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch1

Much safer, (imo), aeroquip fittings.

[Edited on 6/9/06 by iiyama]

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Hellfire

posted on 5/9/06 at 09:46 PM Reply With Quote


If your pockets are deep enough, go for it.......

Phil






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twybrow

posted on 8/9/06 at 11:36 AM Reply With Quote
I spoke to my neighbour yesterday, who own a garage specialising in bikes and bike engines - he sourced a full crashed Busa for £800! And if there are more going, i am at the top of the list! Apparently there was not another useable part on the bike (all forks, wheels etc were trashed) but still, that is BLOODY cheap!
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twybrow

posted on 8/9/06 at 11:36 AM Reply With Quote
I spoke to my neighbour yesterday, who owns a garage specialising in bikes and bike engines - he sourced a full crashed Busa for £800! And if there are more going, i am at the top of the list! Apparently there was not another useable part on the bike (all forks, wheels etc were trashed) but still, that is BLOODY cheap!
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RallyHarry

posted on 8/9/06 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
But if I use it in a (R1) mini etc, would it still "need" drysumping, or would it be close enough to a bike ( that leans in the corners)

Cheers

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G.Man

posted on 8/9/06 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
you could possibly get away with a baffle sump or sump with mobile pickup in straight ahead configuration...







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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 04:32 PM Reply With Quote
The problem with that sump is that it dosent clear the Dax chassis.

Ill think Ill dry sump it. Peice of mind for future upgrades and a small power increase to boot.





If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by iiyama
well I have seen some dry sump systems with hoses held on by hose clamps. The TTS one for a start.


I assume it was this picture of the TTS sump you were looking at?



If so, although I agree that Aeroquips are a far better connection method in any circumstance, aren't those two hoses the scavenge hoses which are pulling a vacuum if anything, not under pressure so are very unlikely to come off even if they didnt have any clips at all?






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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 04:47 PM Reply With Quote
Yes indeedy!
Have to bow to your far superior knowledge on how they work Chris. My learning curve is still pretty near vertical.

And just to confirm this......

Arnt those 2 pipes connected to the oil pump? So surely there will be some pressure in there?

[Edited on 10/9/06 by iiyama]





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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
LOL, I don't know a great deal bout dry sumps either, mostly only from my mate's experience with his busa sump.

That bit you see there is an oil pump yep, but I dont think its pressurised. I think all that pump does is scavenge oil, ie just sucking oil out of the sump into the tank.

From the tank the oil is then fed into the original bike's oil pump which creates the pressure stage. You can add an additional stage to the external pump you see there (making it a 3 stage pump) which does the pressure stage and so removes the bike's own pump from the system, but I don't think this one has that by the looks of it.






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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 05:36 PM Reply With Quote
So if that pump just scavenges oil back to the sump tank, and the internal pump creates pressure within the engine, how does the oil get from the sump tank into the engine in the first place?? Surely dosent rely in gravity as this would lead to the problem Im trying to avoid, ie surge....or have I got the wrong end of the stick??

What system is your mate using? And why?





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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 05:40 PM Reply With Quote
The internal bike pump sucks oil into its inlet side, the same as it would suck oil up the pickup in a wet sump system. So rather than sucking oil from the sump, it sucks it from the dry sump tank, but because the tank can hold more oil than the engine can in a wet sump system, and its tall and narrow so holds a good head of oil at all times, you should never get to a point where the tank is anywhere near low enough to allow air down the pickup.

Thats the theory anyway






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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
I think Bazzer is using a mix n match system, it was originally supplied with his Westfield which uses a Pace sump, but he's had modified to add the pressure stage.






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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
ok.....think I understand that. So I guess then oil returns to the tank through the oil cooler?





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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 06:08 PM Reply With Quote
Nope, the oil returns to the tank via the scavenge pump

ie

Tank > pressure stage pump > round engine / cooler > drain to sump > scavenge pump sucks it up > back to tank






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G.Man

posted on 10/9/06 at 06:29 PM Reply With Quote
Scavenge pump sends oil via the oil cooler (usually) to the tank..

If you have a stage 2 pace kit, (TTS for Hayabusa) then the pump is also the pressure pump and you have to manually set the pressure to keep it within tolerance so is slightly more complex than the stage 1 kit which is pure scavenge...







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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 06:31 PM Reply With Quote
Ah! So those pipes are under pressure then??





If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
I thought that its 2 stage because there are two scavenge circuits (ie one either side of the sump to pick up oil from two different areas), thats certainly the case with my mate's setup. If it was one of each though then yes one would be under pressure, not the other.

I also wasnt aware that the scavenge side (which has a lot of air in it) pumps through the oil cooler, I wouldnt think that would be the most efficient way of cooling the oil is it?






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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 06:49 PM Reply With Quote
pass........

wouldnt have thought so....





If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 10/9/06 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
I checked with my mate Bazzer how his is rigged up, and his cooler is in the pressure stage as I described but you can also do it as G Man mentioned. He said there's pros and cons of both, if its in the pressure stage then cooling is slightly more efficient but you can get a slight pressure drop across the circuit so not ideal if you want to maximise pressure from your pump. If you have an external pressure stage though, you can control pressure more easily so possibly less of a concern.

Putting the cooler in the scavenge you obviously dont have this pressure drop, but cooling isnt quite as efficient because of aeriation, so I guess the ideal positioning of it depends on whether pressure or cooling is your biggest concern.

I also mentioned the TTS system and according to him it is a 2 stage scavenge using the bikes pump for pressure, so neither of those hoses would be under pressure.






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iiyama

posted on 10/9/06 at 07:58 PM Reply With Quote
ok bud, very informative. Be interesting to know if the Big CC one is the same. It is definatly cheaper, although looks to be better made, also includes the water pump in the price.





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