ptrxly
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| posted on 8/4/06 at 02:15 AM |
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Hayabusa won't start
The big day finally arrived when I was to start up for the first time,
the Hayabusa engine in my Deman Motorsports Seven. Well, it cranked
over well, but did not run. The fuel pump runs with fuel going to the
fuel rail, there is power to the injectors and I have a good spark.
Tomorrow, I will put a pressure gauge on the line to the fuel rail
and check for the 43psi.
'Any ideas as what could be wrong?
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Arjan356
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| posted on 8/4/06 at 06:32 AM |
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Hi,
I had a similar problem with my zx12.
After 2 min. of starting stil no fuel smell, turned out that I mixed up the feed and return hoses. 
Succes
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Hellfire
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| posted on 8/4/06 at 06:01 PM |
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Sounds like a safety cut-out...
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ptrxly
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 01:24 PM |
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Hayabusa starting problem
I checked the fuel pressure and it is right on 43psi at the fuel rail. So I have a spark, fuel, power to the injectors and it cranks over well. What
sensors will tell the ECU to shut down the injector pulse circuit only? Most interlocks would stop the starter, ignition and fuel pump.
Any ideas? A bum ECU?
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clutch_kick
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| posted on 9/4/06 at 02:51 PM |
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Check the injector wiring harness, Make sure the injectors are actually spraying fuel.
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gcamps1
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 01:56 PM |
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Hi.
I have exactly the same problem as you describe. I have good cranking, spark, fuel at the correct pressure and injecting etc.
What did you do to fix your problem?
Geoff.
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iiyama
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:00 PM |
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checked the side stand wiring and all the other little caveats? Reistors in place and doing their job?
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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gcamps1
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:12 PM |
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yup. gone through all that. Anything like sidestand switches, tip over switches etc would give an error and wont allow the bike to turn over.
Its injecting fuel, sparking, has good compression and the timing is spot on and it turns over well.
I'm stumped!
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richard thomas
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:12 PM |
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I had the same...head scratching for a while..
Resistors needed for the side stand switch, tip over sensor and ignition switch (anti theft) circuits, earth the clutch switch.
If i remember correctly the ignition switch one caught me out, doesn't allow the injectors to squirt. Try tipping a little fuel into the
throttle bodies, if she fires then that's the one.
Fingers crossed...
[Edited on 9/2/07 by richard thomas]
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gcamps1
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:16 PM |
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I have put resistors of the correct values in. And if it was one of these switches it wouldn't turn over at all... or would it???
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DIY Si
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:23 PM |
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Depending upon how the safety cut outs work, it could turn off and prime the rail, but not actually spray any fuel. Try taking the rail off or an
injector if poss and see if it sprays fuel or not.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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richard thomas
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:24 PM |
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Yes, i'm almost certain that mine was turning over with the fuel pump running and the plugs sparking but not firing up. It was the ignition
switch resistor that is not shown in the Haynes book wiring diagram that threw me out. 100K ohms i think...
[Edited on 9/2/07 by richard thomas]
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gcamps1
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:25 PM |
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with no air-filter fitted you can see it injecting fuel.
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gcamps1
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 04:26 PM |
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i will look into the ignition resistor. Thanks.
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richard thomas
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 05:00 PM |
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So far as i know it's just an anti theft thing - the ECU looks for a rststance through the ignition switch circuit to prevent the bike being
hotwired. on the bike the resistor is built into the key barrel itself. Thats what threw me, i had replaced the bike barrel with a sierra one and not
built the resistor back in.
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gcamps1
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| posted on 9/2/07 at 05:04 PM |
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I have put 2 resistors in. They might have been for the tilt sensor and side stand switch - but I cant remeber now... It may have been the ignition...
I will check.
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yahshuatwo
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| posted on 7/5/07 at 06:01 PM |
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Hayabus ignition resistors
What resistors are requires and which wires from the Hayabusa ignition barrel require surgery?
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bike_power
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| posted on 7/5/07 at 09:17 PM |
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Yo don't need a resistor physically in the barrel, just in the wires that used to go to it on the bike:
Tilt takes a 68Kohm resistor
Side stand takes a jumper
Clutch lever position takes a jumper
ECU needs a 150ohm resistor between O/Y and B/W (This is the ignition bypass)
Engine stop switch takes a jumper
This worked on a 2002 loom.
It's really obvious if you've got fuel being injected, you can smell it if you open the butterflies after 10s of cranking. Don't
look down the throttle bodies whilst cranking incase it backfires, unless you fancy a quick shave and a white stick.
To see a spark you need to take the plug out and rest it against the engine or chassis to get an earth, should see a nice blue spark.
If you get spark and fuel but no start then it's either a duff ECU or the crank/cam sensors are either not connected, damaged wires/sensors so
the spark is in the wrong place. (You should still get the occasional bang as it ignites residual charge) If the map and temp sensors are faulty it
won't stop it starting, just make it run like a dog.
Also, if your battery isn't 100% the ECU can see too little voltage for it to function properly whilst cranking, get a big car battery in
parallel to see if that helps.
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yahshuatwo
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| posted on 7/5/07 at 10:03 PM |
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Thanks Bike_power!
I reckon the only thing I need is the 150ohm resistor between the ecu wiring.
I have the tilt senor, the kickstand,clutch, and etc are working. I'm at the point where the sierra ignition is wires to start/turn-over the
engine, and it runs.
Nevertheless, I still need to wire things where I don't need the Hayabus ignition barrel as a "on' switch.
check this site out. www.moller.com
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ptrxly
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| posted on 7/5/07 at 10:49 PM |
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Motor won't start
The problem with my 'Busa was that because it had not been run for at least a year and a half, the injectors had plugged up. I soaked them
overnight in carb cleaner then "tickled" them ( a couple of hundred instantaneous pulses)with 12V until I could hear them click followed
by another overnight soak and more "tickling". It started instantly and ran smoothly after that.
Good luck,
Peter
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gcamps1
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| posted on 8/5/07 at 08:30 AM |
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I found the problem with mine...
The engine is a 2004 from the states. As with a lot of these engines it had come from a crashed bike.
The alternator rotor has notches on the outside for the crankshaft position sensor.
Pre 2002 bikes have 8 notches, and newer ones have more (12 from what i remember).
In reparing my engine someone used a rotor from an early bike... so my timing didn't have a hope in hell!
So I found and fixed this problem and now she runs a treat! Good job to as my SVA is in a couple of weeks.
Also, FYI, It looks like the hayabusa will meet the SVA emissions by just turning the fuel pressure down from 43psi to 35psi. Don't leave it at
35psi though as you will fry your engine!
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iiyama
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| posted on 8/5/07 at 05:36 PM |
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Is that with or without a cat??
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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GeoffCamps
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| posted on 8/5/07 at 05:48 PM |
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with.
As far as i know it is impossible without.
I took mine down the local garage to check it out with the sva a few weeks away.
at 43 psi it failed. Then emissions machine packed up. 2 hours later they found the probe had been melted! Then at 35 psi it passed.
MOT in a week so will be able to double check emissions before SVA.
[Edited on 8/5/07 by GeoffCamps]
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iiyama
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| posted on 8/5/07 at 05:52 PM |
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OK dumb question time!
Hayabusa's are still made arnt they? How do they get through emissions? Or are the bike tests different to cars? Thinking about it dont think my
bike had an emissions test last MOT....
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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bike_power
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| posted on 8/5/07 at 06:36 PM |
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Glad you got it fixed in the end Geoff. That would have taken most people a long time to find !
I got mine through by lowering the fuel pressure and using a cat. Have to get it very hot before the test, try turning the temperature that the fan
comes on at to a higher temp, I had mine set to just over 100C I think rather than the 96 or so it's set to now.
Bike emissions testing is I believe less stringent than for cars but my engine had a lambda sensor fitted from the factory and one of the exhaust
pipes had a very small cat in it, quite loose compared to the usual car stuff.
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