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Author: Subject: Duratec conversion - parts list confirmation
se7ensport

posted on 14/6/11 at 08:44 PM Reply With Quote
Duratec conversion - parts list confirmation

Just a quick check of parts required to convert Pinto to Duratec and likely source:

Engine Mounts (Fisher Fury as it is the same chassis as the Stylus)
Engine (ebay)
Exhaust manifold (FastDan for flange then DIY the Pinto one or treat myself to a stainless one)
Inlet manifold (FastDan)
bell housing (Titan or RWD; I want the cable version to save effort)
flywheel (RWD; so I can use 8 1/2 uprated clutch I already have)
Alternator (Honda)
ARP Bolts (Burton)
Aux tensioner (ford focus & ebay or breakers yard)

I'm after recommendations for the following:
Sump (anything other than Dunnells at 300!. don't have resource to DIY though)
TB's (would like to go up to 51mm, any recommendations, currently have GSXR 1000)
Alternator mounts (supplier needed, any recommendations?)
Oil filter relocation (Any recommendations before I shell out and buy Dunnells at aprox 100!. is it needed? is there a DIY option?)

HD clutch I already have along with engine management.

Have I missed anything?

Thanks
Alex

[Edited on 14/6/11 by se7ensport]

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karlak

posted on 14/6/11 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
Try Strontium Dog off of this forum for the Sump.

I know he was going to try and alter a Duratec Sump.

[Edited on 14/6/11 by karlak]





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daniel mason

posted on 14/6/11 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
deep pockets mate!






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karlak

posted on 14/6/11 at 09:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
deep pockets mate!



'Kin tell me about





MK Indy - 2litre Duratec - Omex 600 - Jenvey throttle bodies - ETB DigiDash2

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se7ensport

posted on 14/6/11 at 09:46 PM Reply With Quote
getting on for just over 2k with some of the initial prices I'm trying to avoid (sump comes to mind):

Engine Mounts 75
Engine 400
Exhaust manifold 200
Inlet manifold 155
Sump 360
bell housing 240
flywheel 240
clutch 140
TB's (have GSXR looking at other options)
Alternator 30
Alternator mount ???
ARP Bolts 100
Oil filter relocation 100

Total 2,040

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daniel mason

posted on 14/6/11 at 09:49 PM Reply With Quote
what happend to the s2000 option?






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se7ensport

posted on 14/6/11 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
Can't get it to fit existing transmission tunnel which is only 7 inch wide and it looks to be about 10 needed; I'd love to use the engine but additional changes to chassis make it very hard to justify.



[Edited on 14/6/11 by se7ensport]

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daniel mason

posted on 14/6/11 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
i suppose it all depends how far back in the chassis you put it! if you can stick it an inch or two forward and still have a good gear lever position it could be ok. might alter weight distribution slightly but wouldnt imaging a dramatic effect. i can measure mine up for you tomorrow if you like?






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big-vee-twin

posted on 14/6/11 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
FastDan will do the engine mounts too if you need them.

Raceline do a Filter Housing which is slightly cheaper than Dunell.

I have used a Dunell Sump, you can get a cheaper steel on from 3GE components at 275 I think.

You will need a fuel rail 70 from AT.

Alternator mounting Kit from Burton if you feeling Rich, I just made up some brackets to suit my tiny Denso unit.

HD Pinto Friction plate from AP Racing via Burton

Uprated Clutch plate from an Escort RS Turbo I have used, need to trim the fingers in length possibly.

Welcome to the world of deep pockets and never ending spending!!





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

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se7ensport

posted on 14/6/11 at 10:28 PM Reply With Quote
I'd be really interested to know from the point of 6.5 inches width of the gearbox the exact measurement to the front of the engine, according to the drawing it would be 36 inches which puts it too far forward for the bonnet line and weight distribution.
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hughpinder

posted on 15/6/11 at 07:06 AM Reply With Quote
Flak monkey does a steel sump as a flat pack(125) or made up and testsed at 250.

Personally I'd buy the sump flat pack (125) a small stick welder (75) and some bits of steel, drills and taps and then make a steel sump, inlet manifold (18 inches of 80*8 mild steel (5)+ a length of exhast pipe the size you want you inlets (mine was 5 fro a 2m length of 45mmod/42 id)), the engine mount brackets, and alternator mount (I made mine from 150mm of 40mm*40*5 angle, a bit of 6mm flat, and 150mm of M10 stud. You'll probably need 8/10mmm clearance and tapping drills and taps).

Regards
Hugh

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big-vee-twin

posted on 15/6/11 at 08:24 AM Reply With Quote
Engine length rear of block to front pulley 19 inches.

Length from rear of Titan Bell to Front Pulley 26 inches

Length from rear of lidded section of gearbox to front pulley is 36 inches

Engine is quite high can measure that for you too if you need, luckily the panther has been designed with a high bonnet line so enginge sits about 10-15mm lower than this.


[img] Engine and box together
Engine and box together
[/img]





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

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karlak

posted on 15/6/11 at 02:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport
getting on for just over 2k with some of the initial prices I'm trying to avoid (sump comes to mind):

Engine Mounts 75
Engine 400
Exhaust manifold 200
Inlet manifold 155
Sump 360
bell housing 240
flywheel 240
clutch 140
TB's (have GSXR looking at other options)
Alternator 30
Alternator mount ???
ARP Bolts 100
Oil filter relocation 100

Total 2,040



Which exhaust manifold are you considering (200 ??) ? I was going to adapt my "over the rail" Pinto one, but think I would prefer a "through the side panel" type.

[Edited on 15/6/11 by karlak]





MK Indy - 2litre Duratec - Omex 600 - Jenvey throttle bodies - ETB DigiDash2

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DH2

posted on 15/6/11 at 02:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport
TB's (would like to go up to 51mm, any recommendations, currently have GSXR 1000)



51mm!? Isn't that just enormous and going to give poor performance on small throttle openings?

DH2

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se7ensport

posted on 15/6/11 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by karlak
quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport
getting on for just over 2k with some of the initial prices I'm trying to avoid (sump comes to mind):

Engine Mounts 75
Engine 400
Exhaust manifold 200
Inlet manifold 155
Sump 360
bell housing 240
flywheel 240
clutch 140
TB's (have GSXR looking at other options)
Alternator 30
Alternator mount ???
ARP Bolts 100
Oil filter relocation 100

Total 2,040



Which exhaust manifold are you considering (200 ??) ? I was going to adapt my "over the rail" Pinto one, but think I would prefer a "through the side panel" type.

[Edited on 15/6/11 by karlak]


99 + an estimated 100 to get it welded up: WESTFIELD SEVEN DURATEC 4-1 EXHAUST MANIFOLD KIT | eBay UK

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DRC INDY 7

posted on 15/6/11 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
SR20 DET from a nissan 200 sx would be cheaper buy the whole car then sell n the bits you dont need





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pjay

posted on 15/6/11 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
For the GSXR1000 TBs and the inlet flange you have from FastDan have you considered the following sort of setup? Been running well with this setup for a month or two on my Tiger (photos are a while ago and mid modification):

Duratec flange + GSXR1000s
Duratec flange + GSXR1000s


Duratec inlet adapter plate installed
Duratec inlet adapter plate installed

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karlak

posted on 15/6/11 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pjay
For the GSXR1000 TBs and the inlet flange you have from FastDan have you considered the following sort of setup? Been running well with this setup for a month or two on my Tiger (photos are a while ago and mid modification):

Duratec flange + GSXR1000s
Duratec flange + GSXR1000s


Duratec inlet adapter plate installed
Duratec inlet adapter plate installed




Are the inlets you are using from a GSXR1000 or 750 ? I tried a set of 600 inlet mounts, but they were too small for my 1000 ITB's.





MK Indy - 2litre Duratec - Omex 600 - Jenvey throttle bodies - ETB DigiDash2

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pjay

posted on 15/6/11 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
Hi - the inlet rubbers came from a GSXR1000 however IIRC the GSXR750 uses the same TBs/inlet rubbers. The GSXR600 inlet rubbers are definitely smaller.
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se7ensport

posted on 24/6/11 at 04:13 PM Reply With Quote
Conversion starts tomorrow, budget is already blown after buying a 5k engine for 800:

Engine Mounts 75
Engine 800
Exhaust manifold 20 (need to get flange welded to existing pinto manifolds)
Inlet manifold 145
Sump 426
bell housing 330
flywheel 195
clutch 140
TB's 0
Alternator 0 (not needed on focus engine as it already sits on inlet side)
Alternator mount 0
ARP Bolts 40 (only flywheel)
Oil filter relocation 55

Total 2,226

lots of new stuff
lots of new stuff

engine
engine


[Edited on 24/6/11 by se7ensport]

[Edited on 24/6/11 by se7ensport]

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pjay

posted on 24/6/11 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
Looks good but easy to blow budget.

Isn't the Focus alternator a 'smart charge' type on the Duratec e.g. ECU controlled - or have you got info on how to override? The Duratec I've fitted came from a Mondeo which had one of these 'smart charge' alternators.

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big-vee-twin

posted on 25/6/11 at 08:55 AM Reply With Quote
Having been there done that, I think your alternator may be too big, I originally used a unit from a Micra which fouled a chassis member.

I now have a tiny Denso alternator fitted.

Here's a pic so you can compare




[img] micra alternator - too big
micra alternator - too big
[/img]





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

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se7ensport

posted on 25/6/11 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pjay
Looks good but easy to blow budget.

Isn't the Focus alternator a 'smart charge' type on the Duratec e.g. ECU controlled - or have you got info on how to override? The Duratec I've fitted came from a Mondeo which had one of these 'smart charge' alternators.


News to me... bugger.

Pretty sure I can sort it though, if not I'll swap it out, the best bit is that I now have mounts on the right side of the engine.

Edit: after a quick bit a research removing the three pin "smart charge" plug reverts it to a standard alternator.

[Edited on 25/6/11 by se7ensport]

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se7ensport

posted on 25/6/11 at 08:30 PM Reply With Quote
Some progress

New bits:

RWD Bellhousing
RWD Bellhousing


RWD Bellhousing
RWD Bellhousing


Raceline sump
Raceline sump


Sump kit takes a fair bit of time to put together, in doing it I split an "O" ring by pushing the oil pick up pipe too far in causing it to expand with no way of pulling it back out without it taking a chunk out of it. After spending 2 hours trying to make a 3 x 20mm fit (couldn't get a 2.6 x 20mm anywhere) it turns out I was missing the piece of plastic that fills the gap above the pick up pipe, so will have to wait till next weekend to get any further with the sump

Did get the flywheel done though, taking the old one off was a piece of wee once I'd sussed a way to lock the ring gear:

flywheel swap
flywheel swap


Comparison between new and old is substantial, I didn't weight the old one but it's 2-3 times times the weight of the new one at 3.1kg:

flywheel swap comparison
flywheel swap comparison


flywheel swap comparison 2
flywheel swap comparison 2


[Edited on 25/6/11 by se7ensport]

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pjay

posted on 25/6/11 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
Good news on the alternator. Must admit I gave up on mine pretty quicky due to size/mounting position - managed to reuse the alternator from my Pinto so not wiring changes!

New parts look good and very familiar.

Got to say the Raceline sump is top quality, on my second one. Shame about the O ring - it's a tight fit on the oil pick up pipe.

The cable clutch bellhousing from RWD is good quality too and it makes for a quicker/simpler conversion from Pinto. Is the flywheel from RWD as well e.g. with the mounting holes PCD for a Pinto clutch cover?

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