scudderfish
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| posted on 30/1/12 at 07:09 PM |
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I'm a bit stumped. The crank is held down by 10 bolts which are meant to be torqued to something like 70lbft. I've just had a go with a
450Nm (330ish lbft) impact wrench and it didn't budge them 
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l0rd
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| posted on 30/1/12 at 07:24 PM |
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Well you only had a go, what do you expect.
Try it a couple more times 
Apply some heat and try again?
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gazza285
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| posted on 30/1/12 at 07:58 PM |
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Give them a crack with a hammer first.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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scudderfish
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| posted on 2/2/12 at 03:24 PM |
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Aha! Got the buggers out!
After a bit of advice from v8forum.co.uk, I strapped the block to my car, stuck a 3ft pole to my 3ft breaker bar and gave it a (very) good heave.
Once one had gone, I was a lot more confident about the rest.
To my untrained eye, the crank bearings look OK to me, but I'm going to replace them anyway.
The block has now gone to Power Units in Hatfield for them to hone the bores and give it a bit of a
wash. Time to start ordering more bits.....
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Chippy
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| posted on 2/2/12 at 04:56 PM |
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Shell does look fair, but its definately a false economy to not replace the shells when rebuilding an engine, no matter how good they look. IMHO.
Regards Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 2/2/12 at 06:45 PM |
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Dave, That crank looks brand new! a good buy i think.
Worth checking with power units what "Cleaning" they are going to do. When i spoke to them last, they didnt clean the block, just worked
it. They said " But we do give it a wipe over"... Further questioning identified the wipe over to be of the mating surfaces!
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Irony
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| posted on 6/2/12 at 04:10 PM |
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Those bearings look okay but I would replace them anyway as they are quite cheap. The trouble with these engines is that you can keep on replacing
parts seemingly forever until you've spent a small fortune. Different people have different opinions on what should be replaced when building.
It depends on your cash pile I suppose.
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scudderfish
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| posted on 6/2/12 at 04:41 PM |
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A new set of crank bearings came with the engine, so it'd be rude not to replace them. It's getting new valley, oil pump, water pump,
and rocker gaskets and rings. I got a nasty shock with the head gaskets though, a replacement pair is £160 and they're not available. The
composite head gasket is 0.14mm larger than the copper one. Tin ones are almost exactly half the thickness of the copper, I could always stack
two.....
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Irony
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| posted on 7/2/12 at 10:07 AM |
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I am sure someone over on the V8 forum can help you with the costly gaskets. It might be a idea to ring V8 Developments, V8 tuner or RPI and ask them
what they would do. I am sure V8 devs or RPI will have the answer.
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scudderfish
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| posted on 9/2/12 at 05:06 PM |
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I couldn't face the cold today so my block is still at Power Units, I'll get off my arse tomorrow. I do have some good news on the head
gasket front though. I was wrong about the copper gaskets, they are actually the same thickness as a composite one, so I've ordered a pair of
them from V8 Developments along with a few other odds and sods.
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scudderfish
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 posted on 17/2/12 at 12:00 PM |
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OK, next problem. The external core plugs are rustier than my CSE French. How do I get them out?
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Davegtst
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 12:03 PM |
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Hammer an old screwdriver through and lever them out.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 12:05 PM |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oj7AcjNDa1Y
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scudderfish
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 03:06 PM |
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Success! Local odds & ends shop had a big screwdriver for £1.99. Several large smacks and they twisted enough to get some mole grips on and
wiggle them out.
Regards,
Dave
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robinj66
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 03:16 PM |
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You're a lucky boy - that look like a nice engine to play with (and TVR have done some of the work for you anyway).
Not sure you will need to lighten the flywheel on that - might be prudent to weigh yours and then get the standard weights from Eg, V8 owners
forum.
The cams in these engines do tend to wear, expecially if the oil no longer has the additives (Inc zinc). That's why a lot of people recommend
stuff like Valvoline 20/50 etc.
If you need things like core plugs etc you should try some of the suppliers previously mentioned - I would also recommend JRV8.
I would buy a workshop manual to get all the torque figures etc - either the early Haynes or one of the other ones available on Ebay etc.
Whatever you choose to do, I'm sure you'll get a great deal of satisfaction im building your own engine. I found the RV8 to be very easy
to work on ( and I'm as cack-handed as they come )
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scudderfish
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 04:29 PM |
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JRV8 is about the only one I haven't bought something from so far Real Steel didn't have any core plugs in (but they did sell me a
very reasonable set of main studs and head studs), but I found some on ebay.
Here it is with the plugs out, I guess it's been running with red anti freeze
And now with the new plugs in
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 17/2/12 at 10:57 PM |
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Photo fail Dave?
Edited to say - Aparrently not
[Edited on 17/2/12 by Xtreme Kermit]
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scudderfish
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 02:29 PM |
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More progress!
Cam in, assisted by Kate. I put the block so that I could drop it in vertically, made it a lot less fraught than getting the old one out.
ARP studs in. I got these (and the head ones) from Real Steel as they were cheaper than the same items from V8 Developments.
And the crank torqued down.
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sebastiaan
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 05:13 PM |
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Good progress!
It looks a bit dry in there, might be the photo's. I take it you have liberally coated everything with fresh engine oil before bolting the crank
down?
Keep it up, it's going to be one hell of an an egine!
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scudderfish
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 06:33 PM |
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Yep, there is now a load of kitty litter under the engine stand to soak up all the oil and assembly lube that fell through
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SCAR
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 06:56 PM |
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Nice thread this, I will follow with interest having just got hold of a 4.6 that was advertised as low mileage (72k). Haven't looked inside yet
but prepared for the horrors that may lie within. Intend to rebuild it if necessary or just dress it up nice and shiney.
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scudderfish
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| posted on 19/2/12 at 08:36 PM |
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Piston rings fitted. Unfortunately I got 3 piece oil rings for a total of 40 to fit. Maybe 4 cylinder engines do have some advantages after all....
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scudderfish
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| posted on 23/2/12 at 03:48 PM |
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Pistons are in.
First one was a git, the rings kept popping out of the compressor. Hitting it harder did the trick.
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Xtreme Kermit
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| posted on 23/2/12 at 08:15 PM |
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Great stuff. Many years since I did some piston rings, and I don't remember it being overly easy...
On a different tack, where are the thrust bearings on the RV8? I seem to remember these being useful things. At least the engine didn't last
long without them 
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robinj66
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| posted on 23/2/12 at 09:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Xtreme Kermit
Great stuff. Many years since I did some piston rings, and I don't remember it being overly easy...
On a different tack, where are the thrust bearings on the RV8? I seem to remember these being useful things. At least the engine didn't last
long without them
they are on the middle (I think) main bearing. The earlier ones are one-piece and the later ones are in 3 (?) parts
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